Sun Getaways

Under a BC Sun

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 05:00:00 -0700

Up! Taking it all in atop Whistler Mountain.

HALFWAY THROUGH THE TREK to Harmony Lake on Whistler Mountain I became lost in the view—a celestial scene of snowy cathedral-like peaks rising above a lush forested valley to kiss the cloud bank. But my reverie was cut short when a hiking companion whispered, “Don’t move. Look to your right.” Fully expecting to see some type of creepy crawler, I followed his gaze to a boulder less than an arm’s length away. There sat a furry, sandy-colored marmot munching on bright blue arctic lupine. Little did I know at the time that the flower-snacking critter was wildlife royalty in Whistler.

WHEN YOU GO

SLEEP
Four Seasons Whistler 4591 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 604-966-2700; four seasons.com/whistler

EAT
Bearfoot Bistro 4121 Village Green, Whistler, 604-932-3433;bearfootbistro.com
Hot Buns Bakery  4322 Sunrise Alley, Whistler, 604-932-6883;hotbuns.moonfruit.com
Mountain Club 40-4314 Main St, Whistler, 604-932-6009;themountainclub.ca

DO
Peak 2 Peak Gondola  4545 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 866-218-9690; whistlerblackcomb.com
Whistler Mountain Bike Park 4545 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 866-218-9690; whistlerbike.com
Whistler Sliding Centre  4910 Glacier Ln, Whistler, 604-964-0040;whistlerslidingcentre.com
Whistler Visitor Centre 4230 Gateway Dr, Whistler, 877-991-9988; whistler.com
Ziptrek  Carleton Lodge, 4340 Sundial Crescent, Whistler, 866-935-0001; ziptrek.com

Photo courtesy Michael Rafelson, Tourism Whistler

Back at the gondola station a guide filled us in. The hoary marmot was nicknamed “the whistler” by British settlers in the early 1900s because of the shrill noise it makes when alerting pals to danger. In the 1960s, four Vancouver entrepreneurs began development of Canada’s premier ski destination and successfully petitioned government officials to change the name of London Mountain to Whistler Mountain, in honor of its cuddliest inhabitants.

If you’ve only experienced Whistler during the winter, then you’ve likely never met a marmot. The creatures don’t emerge from their burrows until mid-May, as the snow begins to melt, at which point they gorge on grasses and flowers. If you ask me, they have the right idea: Whistler is at its best when the weather warms up.

Besides the usual off-season perks—minimal crowds, hotel discounts, and negligible waits for attractions—there are more things to see and do in summer than in winter. There’s boating and kayaking on azure waterways, zip-lining through coastal rain forest, mountain biking on an adrenaline-inducing jumps course, alpine hiking, gondola riding, golfing and, yes, high-altitude skiing and snowboarding. You can now also hit the Whistler Sliding Centre, site of the bobsleigh, luge, and skeleton events for the 2010 Olympic Games.

A five-hour trip north of Seattle on I-5—assuming the line at the Canadian border is mercifully short—the drive to Whistler is made more tolerable via the less-trafficked Pacific Highway border crossing via State Route 543. We stopped for a bite and a latte in Vancouver, then pushed north on the Sea to Sky Highway, which curves around the hypnotizing turquoise waters of Howe Sound and climbs into the jagged Coast Mountains.

The Four Seasons Resort Whistler, located in the upper village, served as our base. Surrounded by a dense evergreen wall, the posh timber-and-stone lodge features spacious wood-trimmed rooms with snowbank-size beds and cozy fireplaces. We tossed the keys to the valet, stashed the bags in our rooms, and dashed off to the Whistler Village Gondola.

Gliding up the side of the mountain, we watched mountain bikers descending 4,900 vertical feet of lift-serviced trails at the Whistler Mountain Bike Park. Dusty, helmeted, and clad in hard plastic protective gear as if dressed for a match in the Thunderdome, the riders raced down the more than 200 trails ranging from gentle banked cruisers to twisted single track to steep rock faces. One guy wiped out and slid briefly on the rough terrain before standing up to reveal his freshly skinned leg. I vowed to stay clear of the park. One of my daredevil travel companions, on the other hand, rented a bike and gear and abandoned our group to spend the rest of the trip on the course.

The gondola ride ends at the mountain’s 6,069-foot peak, the starting point for numerous hiking excursions. Blackcomb and Whistler combined have over 30 miles of well-groomed trails, including the one-and-a-half-mile path to Harmony Lake where we met our marmot friend. Traveling between the two mountains is effortless on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola. An impressive feat of engineering, the nearly three-mile gondola holds the world records for being the longest free-span lift and the highest detachable lift. The 11-minute trip between peaks offers nonstop jaw-dropping views.

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Image: Sterling Lorence, Tourism Whistler

The high road Mountain bikers enjoy hundreds of trails in Whistler.

While the Peak 2 Peak is undeniably the crown jewel of the resort’s lift system, the 7th Heaven chairlift on Blackcomb is the diamond in the rough. The lift transports summertime skiers, snowboarders, and anyone craving a killer lookout point 7,494 feet up the mountain to Hortsman Glacier. If you take a spin on the lift, be sure to bring a thermal jacket, gloves, and perhaps a scarf. The climate on the glacier is considerably cooler than in the village, where the average high temperature is in the 70s.

When the gondolas shut down at night, crowds descend on the village’s 90 restaurants, pubs, and cafes to savor the day’s adventures. We slid into a high-backed white leather booth at the Mountain Club, a rustic log-hewn lounge. On the waitress’s recommendation, we ordered a round of Goggle Tan cocktails—Grey Goose vodka, ginger liqueur, cilantro, aloe juice, and fresh lime, rimmed with cayenne pepper—followed by porcini-dusted scallops and other delectable Pacific Northwest–inspired dishes.

By 11 the following morning, powered by the legendary cinnamon buns from Hot Buns Bakery, I stood harnessed and helmeted on a wooden platform 200 feet above Fitzsimmons Creek. A guide with the eco-tour company Ziptrek stood near the platform’s edge waving me forward. Another tourist, a kinsman from my native Texas, said in passing, “Kick your legs up, lock them around the rope and go upside down.” Following his directions, I stepped off the platform and flew, upside down, across a 1,100-foot cable at a speed I can only describe as really, really fast.

The rush from the three-hour zip-line tour still lingered that evening as I surveyed the flurry of activity at the elegant Bearfoot Bistro. A jovial bunch sipped bubbly at the pewter bar in the Champagne Lounge. Another group outfitted in parkas ventured into the ice room, an arctic cavern serving 50 different vodkas. Around the dining room, patrons washed down bites of wild caribou loin and gnocchi swimming in crab bisque with vintages from the 23,000-bottle cellar. As I took in the scene, I couldn’t help but think that when it comes to summertime gorging done right, those marmots have nothing on us.

Slide Show: Hike and Bike

Mon, 17 May 2010 12:00:00 -0700

LUCKY US: We live near some of the best hiking and mountain biking trails in the Pacific Northwest. Want to break a sweat? Take a stroll before lunch? There’s a trail for that.

Hike and Bike: Central Cascades

Mon, 17 May 2010 05:00:00 -0700

Image: Craig Romano

Spray Park

MODERATE If you think nothing compares to Mount Rainier’s Paradise, with its dazzling wildflowers set against an icy backdrop, you haven’t seen Spray Park. Located on the quieter northwest side of the mountain and accessible by a bumpy dirt road, Spray gets a fraction of the foot traffic at heavily touristed Paradise. Wander along the Wonderland Trail past aptly named Spray Falls—splashing 300 feet down a cliff face of volcanic andesite rock—to this magnificent alpine garden, lush with purple lupines that match shades of the sunset. INSIDER TIP Wildflowers are optimal in late July. —Craig Romano

Round Trip 6 miles. Duration 4 hours. Distance from Downtown 75 miles. Permits and Passes National Park Entrance fee; dogs prohibited. Map Green Trails no. 269 Mt Rainier West. Find it.

Kendall Katwalk

MODERATE TO DIFFICULT At first glance, the Katwalk is intimidating. Who really wants to walk along a ledge cut into a granite cliff more than 1,000 feet above the ground? But the trail’s wider than most, and as safe as a tried-and-true trek into the Grand Canyon. Plus, it’s only a small part of a beautiful hike along the Pacific Crest Trail from Snoqualmie Pass, with views of Red Mountain along the way. INSIDER TIPNever attempt to cross the Katwalk when there’s lingering snow. —Laura Dannen

Round Trip 11 miles. Duration 7 hours. Distance from Downtown 55 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 207 Snoqualmie Pass. Find it.

Lake Serene and Bridal Veil Falls

Image: Sean Gwizdak

MODERATE TO DIFFICULT Beware: This trail has split personalities. At 1.7 miles, bear to the right and you’re on the Jekyll route: a short, moderate trek to the 100-foot Bridal Veil Falls, meandering along creek beds and up stairs to a waterlogged boardwalk and viewing platforms. Chances are you’ll get wet, though that’s as aggressive as this trail gets. But head to Lake Serene and out comes Mr. Hyde: a beast of a climb up stone steps, gaining 1,300 feet in a mile and a half. It takes effort to finish the remaining half mile, but the rewards are great. Nestled within a forest thicket, against the northern face of Mount Index, is the sparkling glacier lake living up to its name. Catch your breath and picnic atop Lunch Rock, a smooth stone slab that sits at the cerulean water’s edge. Or for those looking for a quicker cool-down, consider cannonballing into the ol’ watering hole—it was looking too serene anyway. —Hayley Poole

Round Trip 4–8 miles. Duration 2–4 hours. Distance from Downtown 55 miles. Permits and Passes None. Map Green Trails no. 142 Index. Find it.

Skyscraper Mountain

MODERATE No pigeons cooing on the ledges of this skyscraper. Instead, you might see eagles or mountain goats as you approach the mountain’s easily attainable 7,078-foot summit. Start from Sunrise Visitor Center and head along Wonderland Trail, which cuts across alpine tundra and through meadows of asters and lupine. Marmots whistle encouragement as you hike 1,000 feet up to the boot-beaten path to Skyscraper Mountain. Though the windswept summit feels a bit precipitous, it’s as safe as peering from behind the guardrail atop the Empire State Building, with 360-degree views of Rainier Park’s finest: the West Fork of the White River and lush green of Berkeley Park below, Sluiskin Mountain, and of course, Mount Rainier herself. INSIDER TIPNo shade and no shelter—avoid in bad weather. —CR

Round Trip 8.5 miles. Duration 5 hours. Distance from Downtown 100 miles. Permits and Passes National Park Entrance fee; dogs prohibited. Map Green Trails no. 270 Mt Rainier East. Find it.

Image: Craig Romano

Spider Meadow

MODERATEIn the early twentieth century, this sprawling valley was overrun by prospectors searching for the mother lode. Nowadays, scores of hikers and backpackers cash in on Spider’s priceless scenery instead: old-growth forests, glacier-fed Phelps Creek, and a mile-long carpet of wildflowers surrounded by towering jagged peaks. The trail to the meadow is gentle—ascending a mere 1,300 feet in five miles—and once you’ve arrived, there are plenty of fine lunch spots along the creek. After a bite, consider pushing on one mile farther to Phelps Basin, a quiet cirque that’s perfect for an afternoon nap. —CR

Round Trip 10 miles. Duration 5 hours. Distance from Downtown 130 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 113 Holden. Find it.

Carne Mountain

DIFFICULT The mountain, named after an English clergyman rather than Spanish meat (it’s “carn,” not “carnay”), offers panoramic views of the region—it just takes some commitment to get there. To reach the summit, hikers must overcome a steep set of seemingly endless switchbacks for an elevation gain of 3,600 feet (ouch). If you panic at the trailhead, you can always reroute to Spider Meadow. But hang on and, three miles farther, there’s a grove of larches that turn golden in the fall. Even the final ascent is softened by lupine, scarlet gilia, phlox, and asters lining the path. Once atop the 7,085-foot peak, face the four horizons and take it all in: the glistening ice of cloud-piercing Clark Mountain to the west; the fortress of Mount Stuart, king of the Enchantments; and to the north, Mount Maude, mighty matron of the Entiat Range. It’s practically a religious experience. —CR

Round Trip 8 miles. Duration 6 hours. Distance from Downtown 130 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 113 Holden. Find it.

Image: Jocelyn Lykken

Denny Creek

EASY You don’t have to go far off I-90 to find free fun in the summer: Denny Creek rushes down a smooth granite slab, creating a natural water slide with a shallow pool below. Bring the kids and the swimsuits, trek a mile and a half to the slide, then wander another half mile for photo ops in front of Keekwulee Falls and the smaller Snowshoe Falls. —LD

Round Trip 4 miles. Duration 2 hours to all day. Distance from Downtown 50 miles. Permits  and Passes None. Map Green Trails no. 207  Snoqualmie Pass. Find it.

Talapus and Olallie Lakes

EASYKids will love everything about this winding trek through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. You get to cross bridges and raised walkways, tromp through boggy sections of trail, and mingle with deer at the water’s edge. The snow-fed lakes are both frigid, but should be swimmable by mid-August. Expect company. —LD

Round Trip 4–6 miles.  Duration 2–3 hours. Distance from Downtown 50 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 206 Bandera. Find it.

Hike and Bike: Olympic Peninsula

Mon, 17 May 2010 05:00:00 -0700

Image: Sean Gwizdak

Shi Shi Beach

EASY Renowned for its presettler vibe, the hike to Shi Shi Beach winds through the Makah Indian Reservation’s old-growth coastal forests, a dense collection of mature cedars and Sitka spruces that enclose this muddy, albeit manageable trail. Two miles in and you’re the latest Lost survivor of the Northwest standing atop a 150-foot bluff, staring at the panoramic view of the Pacific. The descent, unsuitable for toddlers, is a battle with the brambles, but the payout? Eagles circling over tidal pools and silky sand that puts rocky Washington beaches to shame. With tide guide in hand, hike south toward the Point of the Arches sea stacks—vast rock formations that stand like the toppled ruins of a grand fortress. —Hayley Poole

Round Trip 4 miles. Duration 2.5 hours. Distance from Downtown 150 miles, plus Edmonds–Kingston ferry. Permits and Passes Makah Recreation Pass. Map Green Trails no. 98S Cape Flattery. Find it

Image: Craig Romano

Ozette Triangle

EASY Who knew a three-mile boardwalk led to one of the wildest beaches in America? Follow the cedar-planked trail from Lake Ozette to Cape Alava—through a mist-shrouded forest of mossy cedars, past prairies where tenacious homesteaders battled incessant rains. Once you reach the rocky beach, enjoy a three-mile stroll south, peering into tidal pools offering squishy urchins to ravenous gulls or searching for petroglyphs left three centuries ago by the Makah tribe. Head back via the Sand Point trailhead for the return leg of the triangle. INSIDER TIP Boardwalks can be slick. —Craig Romano

Round Trip 9.4 miles. Duration 6 hours. Distance from Downtown 150 miles, plus Edmonds–Kingston ferry. Permits and Passes National Park Entrance fee; dogs prohibited. Map Green Trails no. 130S Ozette. Find it.

The 10 Essentials

First developed by the Mountaineers Club in the 1930s, this list of outdoor survival tools belongs in every basic pack:

• A map
• A compass
• Water and a way to purify it
• Sunglasses and sunscreen
• Rain gear, extra clothing
• A headlamp or flashlight, and extra batteries
• A first-aid kit
• Matches in waterproof bag
• A knife
• Extra food

Bonus items: insect repellent, duct tape (for blisters and repairing anything), and an orange vest (during hunting season). —Courtesy wta.org

Grand Valley

DIFFICULT The wind blows dusty shale across your boots as you trek alpine tundra along a ridge 6,200 feet above sea level. Yes, this is the entry to Grand Valley, but it gets better. Hike downhill along the gently sloping Badger Valley trail into the valley itself—named after a ranger’s favorite horse, not the critter. Continue to Moose Lake—where there are no moose—and you’ll find pristine meadows and subalpine forests, home to marmot, deer, and the occasional bear or cougar. Lest you think this should be called Misnomer Valley, keep your eyes turned to the sweeping views of the Olympics as you trek in and out. INSIDER TIPSnowfields can linger well into July along the ridge; exercise caution. —CR

Round Trip 9 miles. Duration 6 hours. Distance from Downtown  95 miles, plus Edmonds–Kingston ferry. Permits and Passes National  Park Entrance fee; dogs prohibited. Map Green Trails no. 134S Elwha  North/Hurricane Ridge. Find it.

Bogachiel Peak

DIFFICULT This 5,474-foot peak, a former fire lookout with breathtaking views, cuts through the heart of Olympic National Park’s famed High Divide—a Shangri-la of lakes, meadows, and waterfalls. The trail rises up, up, way up Bogachiel (more than 3,000 feet) via Deer Lake. But don’t just storm up it. Take a minute, grab a handful of wild huckleberries, and listen for bugling elk. When you reach the top, say hello to the glistening white mass of Mount Olympus, highest summit on the Olympic Peninsula. Then cast your eyes down nearly one vertical mile to the emerald swath of the Hoh Rain Forest below. INSIDER TIP Excellent backcountry camping opportunities; secure permit(s) from ranger station. Be bear aware. —CR

Round Trip 16 miles. Duration 10 hours. Distance from Downtown 120 miles, plus Edmonds–Kingston ferry. Permits and Passes National Park Entrance fee; dogs prohibited. Map Green Trails no. 133S Seven Lakes Basin. Find it.

Hike and Bike: North Cascades

Mon, 17 May 2010 05:00:00 -0700

Image: Paul Westcott

Cascade Pass/Sahale Arm

MODERATE TO DIFFICULT A hike that’s gentle enough for children…with hillsides of wildflowers… and it’s the easiest route to alpine terrain in North Cascades National Park? Of course it’ll be crowded! But part of the fun is being able to point and laugh at a marmot with a tourist from Tokyo, or chat with climbers before they crampon up Sahale Glacier. If you still want to lose the crowds, at the pass, take the Sahale Arm trail, named for its dizzying ascent through subalpine terrain into the never-ending “above.” In two miles and 2,000 feet, you’ll reach the base of the glacier (7,200 feet), where panorama paralysis has been known to kick in: You’re struck mute, camera in hand, gaping at the Eldorado and Hidden Lake peaks, lush Stehekin Valley, and on a clear day, the snow-capped tip of Mount Rainier. INSIDER TIP Wait for the snow to melt; hiking is best after June. —Hayley Poole

Round Trip 7.4–11 miles. Duration 4–7 hours. Distance from Downtown 120 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 80 Cascade Pass. Find it.

Hidden Lake Peak

DIFFICULT The goal: to stand inside the 80-year-old lookout cabin at 6,900 feet and enjoy one of the finest views in the North Cascades, from the jagged peaks of Cascade Pass all the way to Mounts Baker, Shuksan, and Rainier. The challenge: to traverse forest and meadow, mudslides and an avalanche chute, and—finally—scramble up the steep, rocky slope to the top. Oh, and if you go before September, you might need an ice axe. —Laura Dannen

Round Trip 9 miles. Duration 6 hours. Distance from Downtown 100 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 48 Diablo Dam and no. 80 Cascade Pass. Find it.

Hannegan Pass

Image: Yet Scherer

DIFFICULT Someone needs to remake The Sound of Music on Hannegan Pass, because these hills are alive. Ruth Mountain stands sentry over a valley carpeted in wildflowers—roughly four miles of alpine meadows and subalpine forests. It’s also a breeding ground for blueberries and huckleberries. Can it get any better? It does get steep, though: After the berry-lined high pass at 5,050 feet, begin a sharp 1.2-mile hike to the alpine tundra of 6,186-foot Hannegan Peak. From this lofty summit surrounded by the serrated ridges of the North Cascades, you’ll wonder why everyone makes a fuss about the Swiss Alps. —Craig Romano

Round Trip 10.4 miles. Duration 8 hours. Distance from Downtown 130 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 14 Mt Shuksan. Find it.

Sun Mountain

EASY TO DIFFICULTWinter’s finest cross-country trails in Methow Valley become ridiculously fun mountain biking options in the summer. Single- and double-track for all skill levels snake across the mount. Newbies can rent bikes at Sun Mountain Lodge in Winthrop and enjoy a fast, flat ride around Beaver Pond, while the advanced should try the Yellow Jacket loop, a six-mile roller coaster that’s equally fast and smooth. —LD

Round Trip Up to 40 miles. Duration 2 hours to all day. Distance from Downtown 200 miles. Permits and Passes None. Map Sun Mountain Lodge’s trail guide. Find it.

Cutthroat Pass

MODERATE TO DIFFICULTThis single-track trail west of Winthrop starts as a tame two-mile stretch through open forest, with a quarter-mile spur to the placid Cutthroat Lake. But then you hit the rocky slope of Cutthroat Peak, which taunts with more than three miles of switchbacks (and amazing views) for a gain of 2,300 feet. Sun’s beating down, there’s nowhere to get water—and the pass, at 6,800 feet, is still a mile away. What happened to “tame”? —LD

Round Trip 10–12 miles. Duration 6–8 hours. Distance from Downtown 155 miles. Permits and Passes None. Map Green Trails no. 50 Washington Pass. Find it.

Hike and Bike: Mount St. Helens

Mon, 17 May 2010 05:00:00 -0700

Image: David A. Anderson

Ape Canyon

DIFFICULT Ever wonder what it’s like to cross the moon? We’re guessing it’s a bit like this (minus gravity). More than 17 miles of single-track cut through the blast zone, following lahars (mud and rock flow) and slicing through volcanic ash. Start with a steep 1,400-foot climb past red cedars and Douglas firs that survived the eruption, and level out onto the Plains of Abraham, a ridge where the trail goes soft and the views turn desolate. Ape Canyon looms below, while a face-smacking view of Mount St. Helens reminds you who’s in charge. INSIDER TIP Bring the bike with the good suspension—lots of gravel roads and dried creek beds to cross. —Laura Dannen

Round Trip 21 miles. Duration 4–6 hours. Distance from Downtown 140 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 364 Mt St Helens. Find it.

Lewis River

MODERATE This smooth single-track is as fast as the river it’s tracing, cutting a path through a scenic stretch of old-growth forest. Huff and puff your way up and down small, steep hills to the northern end, where waterfall views and swimming holes await. —LD

Round Trip Up to 26 miles. Duration 4–5 hours. Distance from Downtown 160 miles. Permits and Passes None. Map Green Trails no. 365 Lone Butte. Find it.

Norway Pass

MODERATE This hike’s a blast—literally. Navigate pumice fields and matchstick forests in the heart of Mount St. Helens’s 1980 blast zone. Despite taking a direct hit from the volcano, which leveled trees for 230 square miles and blanketed the landscape in ash, this area is no barren wasteland. Nature has been busy recolonizing. Avalanche lilies are prolific, and the hills are alive with furry fury—from ground squirrels to elk. This harsh topography is awe—inspiring, especially when viewed from Norway Pass at 4,500 feet, where you can see the mount’s crater and dome reflected in Spirit Lake below. INSIDER TIP Shade is nonexistent. Slather on the sunscreen. —Craig Romano

Round Trip 4.5 miles. Duration 3 hours. Distance from Downtown 140 miles. Permits and Passes Northwest Forest Pass. Map Green Trails no. 332 Spirit Lake. Find it.

Slide Show: Go! Road Trips 2010

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:00:00 -0700

Travel time: 3.5 hours Tacos in Pasco by Lia Steakley Dicker Somewhere around mile marker 74 on Interstate 82, our wine-tasting trip to the Tri-Cities (Kennewick, Pasco, Richland) turned into a pursuit for the best Mexican food in Washington. The change in course came when my car mates complained that, despite its award-winning wines, the region is a cultural wasteland. Appalled by their urbanite s...

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Slide Show: The Ultimate Beach Guide

Mon, 20 Jul 2009 04:00:00 -0700

Where to swim, paddle, hike, and hunt for treasure in the sand: Here are Washington's 15 best beach destinations.

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35 Northwest Playgrounds

Sun, 28 Dec 2008 04:00:00 -0800

YOU REALLY CAN HAVE IT BOTH WAYS. Seattle is a haven for the indoor crowd—café dwellers, book nerds, and software slaves—but this is also an outdoor rec mecca. Lots of water, dense forests, and skylines so beautiful grown men have been known to weep at the sight of them. This region has more mountains, rivers, peninsulas, and vistas than any one person will ever be able to scale, raft, or trek in their lifetime, much less one summer. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try.

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WATER

Green Lake Park, Seattle
Be a skipper
If you can ride a tricycle, you can captain a pedal boat. It doesn’t get any easier than pedal boating, the one marine activity that requires zero skill. That doesn’t mean pedaling across Green Lake, as the waves slosh you and your little two-person vessel around, isn’t a helluva lot of fun. A mere $14 gets you an hour on Seattle’s beloved landlocked lake in style. Merely agreeing with your shipmate on which direction to go keeps the peace on the high seas. Greenlake Boat Rentals, 206-527-0171; greenlakeboatrentals.net

Yakima River, Washington
Chase the rainbows
More than a hundred rivers, creeks, and tributaries meander through Washington State, but few are as scenic or as productive fly-fishing spots as the section of the Yakima River paralleling Canyon Road between Ellensburg and Yakima. Here the river bends repeatedly, creating numerous insect-rich pools where rainbow trout thrive. While you work to perfect your cast, you just might see a full-sized male elk amble down to the riverbank to drink, then cross and ascend the other side, as Greenlake resident Kevin Hughes once witnessed. "We often see no people, but plenty of wildlife," he says. If you’re short on gear or dry-casting know-how, book a trip with Dave McCoy, owner and head fish whisperer of Emerald Water Anglers. Emerald Water Anglers, 206-545-2197; emeraldwateranglers.com

Overachieving Seattleite

Trek the PCT

Thirty-three wilderness areas, 24 national forests, 7 national parks, 3 national monuments, 19 major canyons, and 57 mountain passes—that is the abridged version of the Pacific Crest Trail. The full experience (called “thru-hiking”), requires months, if not years, of planning and training, followed by the actual six-month, 2,650-mile trek from Mexico to Canada; only half those who attempt it each year finish. Seattleites contemplating the full route should hike the Washington sections of the trail first. Start with the 74-miles between Stevens to Snoqualmie Pass; it provides both physical conditioning and a taste of the logistics involved. From there, the PCT Association provides more preparatory info (and advice from PCTveterans) than you can fit in your pack. Pacific Crest Trail Association, 888-728-7245; pcta.org

Bow Lake, Washington
The board and the beautiful
Seattleites have a board sport for every season, and no summer day is complete without fit, bronze, and minimally clothed folks atop wakeboards careening around our lakes: Washington, Sammamish, and Tapps. Like its snowy counterpart, wakeboarding has a relatively steep learning curve, meaning even beginners can be up and cruising behind a boat within a day or two. You’ll be catching air soon after that. Don’t know your Osmosis 540 from a Backside Alley-Oop? Take a lesson at Bow Lake Watersports, located on a private wakeboard and water ski lake 60 miles north of Seattle in the Skagit Valley. Bow Lake Watersports, 877-396-5379; waterskiranch.com

Tofino, Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Surf’s up, eh?
Unending miles of coastline, year-round swells, perfect barrel-shaped waves—and bears. That’s surfing at Canada’s legendary Tofino, a thumb-shaped peninsula on the west coast of Vancouver Island, surrounded by Clayoquot Sound. A town notorious for wind-induced power outages, Tofino boasts no fewer than eight surf shops and instruction schools, 20- to 30-foot waves in winter, and some of the most rugged, stunning surf terrain this side of Maui. Yes, you trade sun-soaked Hawaii for a 40-degree wet suit, but you can also pocket the cost of airfare and use it to upgrade your lodging or treat locals to drinks in exchange for insider tips. Get rental gear, lessons, and a breakdown of all the local breaks at the Live to Surf shop. Live to Surf, 250-725-4464; livetosurf.com

Edmonds, Washington
An octopus garden
Seattle isn’t a top destination for Scuba enthusiasts, but we’ve got one thing that no other dive location can claim: the giant Pacific octopus, averaging 35 pounds with a span of up to 14 feet, the largest of its species. Scuba certification takes only a few days, and those willing to don a wet suit and brave chilly temps at local spots like Edmonds’ Underwater Park and just offshore from Alki Beach might glimpse the leggy legend, and otherwise will be treated to an underwater show that ranges from small crustaceans and urchins to trout, and, if you venture closer to the San Juans, migrating gray whales. Seattle Scuba School, 206-374-2937; seattlescuba.com

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Image: Adam Perry

Madison Park Beach, Seattle
Different strokes with lots of folks
Despite a preponderance of beaches, Seattle doesn’t exactly scream swim town. But once the mercury climbs above 70, sun-deprived Seattleites go swimming in droves, especially along the grassy shores of Madison Park Beach, a luscious slice of Lake Washington at the bottom of East Madison Street. The beach and its swimming zone, complete with a diving board and lifeguards on duty in summer, are cordoned off from the rest of the lake. See how many laps you can breast stroke along the perimeter—or join the other UV-ray seekers plopped along the water’s edge like so many napping sea lions. Madison Park Beach, 206-684-7796; seattle.gov/parks/

Shilshole Bay Marina, Seattle
Sail away
On sunny summer days, the colorful boats crowding the bays and lakes inevitably induce an unbearable case of sailing envy. Whether you lust for a leisurely cruise around Lake Union or the tilting thrill of high-speed catamaran racing on the Pacific Ocean, all you really need to start sailing is a good friend who owns a good boat. No skippers in your circle of friends? Meet your new nautical chums at the Seattle Sailing Club, a local group teeming with ready-to-launch boats. Members have access to the sailing club’s fleet of 22- to 36-foot vessels and don’t have to deal with the hassles of moorage or maintenance or navigation. Besides, the club will teach you to be your own captain. Lessons range from basic cruising to coastal navigation and racing skills and tactics. Seattle Sailing Club, 202-782-5100; seattlesailing.com

Leavenworth, Washington
A river roars, sprays, and bucks through it
They call it the Suffocator. By the time you look down onto it, you’ve survived Satan’s Eyeball, Rodeo Hole, and Drunkard’s Drop, three exhilarating sets of rapids on a popular Whitewater Rafting stretch of the Wenatchee River between Leavenworth and Monitor. In high-flow conditions during the spring, the Suffocator acts like a natural roller coaster, developing into a huge breaking wave that drops you into a nasty hole afterward. Experienced rafters (or kayakers) can pilot it on their own, but even newbies can chart these waters with local guides like Blue Sky Outfitters. Blue Sky Outfitters, 206-938-4030; blueskyoutfitters.com

Westport, Washington
No, it really was that big
Just as the sound of the sea lapping at the boat hull lulls you into a mesmerized state of relaxation, there’s a sudden, forceful tug on your line. You bolt out of the deck chair and grab rod and reel, only to feel whatever you’ve just snagged swimming away. This is the defining moment of deep-sea fishing—your heart races and you’re astonished at the effort required to reel a 20-pound fish back to the boat. Set out with Westport’s Deep Sea Charters for the salmon season, from early June to late July; the amicable crew will help you reel in the big ones and fillet them for fresh sashimi on deck or a family fish-fry back home. Deep Sea Charters, 360-268-9300; deepseacharters.biz

Image: Brian Aurich

Posey Island, San Juan
Paddle to paradise
Posey Island is a versatile sea kayak stopover spot in the San Juans. This tiny one-acre dot of land not far from Roche Harbor is a marine park with just 1,000 feet of shoreline and two rugged camping spots allocated for nonmotorized boat access. Because you can only get there via paddle boat, it’s a quiet oasis in summer, when big-boat tours pack the waterways. Commercial kayaking companies often use it as a rest stop on whale-watching tours well-suited to beginners, and experienced paddlers prepared to pack their own camping gear will find that, come sunset, they’ll practically have the place to themselves. Arrive early, though; reservations aren’t available. Posey Island State Park, parks.wa.gov/

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Image: Smithrock.com

EARTH

Olympic National Park, Washington
I’m warning you, I’ll turn this llama right around!
Tackling outdoor adventures with kids might rank alongside a lawn picnic in hell, but Bob Shapiro at Deli Llama Wilderness Adventures gets you and yours into high-alpine wilderness so easily you won’t even have to ply junior with idle threats. And Shapiro and his crew make the journey so fun the kids won’t miss the Play-Station. By age seven, most kids do well paired up with the even-tempered, sure-footed llamas, which can carry up to 20 pounds of gear. Deli Llama boasts multiday hiking trips to areas like the Olympics, North Cascades, and Pasayten Wilderness. The guides take care of the food and logistics, and you get to actually enjoy hiking with your kids. Deli Llama Wilderness Adventures, 360-757-4212; delillama.com

Mount Si, North Bend, Washington
Take the easy way up
When it comes to hiking it’s no state secret that few local peaks match Mount Si in proximity, breathtaking viewpoints, or heart-poundingly cruel steepness. Come summer this relentless trail just outside North Bend is a crowded, alpine highway. But here’s a little known tip: You can log the same 3,700-foot vertical climb and revel in the same jaw-dropping scenery if you start instead at the Mount Teneriffe road just over a mile east of the Si trailhead. This lesser-known forest road (which is accessible with snowshoes in late fall through early spring) guides you above the Si summit, allowing you to skip the crowds and still snag views of Mount Rainier, Rattlesnake Lake, and Mount Washington. Mount Si, mountsi.com

Overachieving Seattleite

Wilderness Survival

Annie Thoe had never eaten ants before. “I was really hungry by that point,” she remembers. She was deep in the Cascades, with only a knife, a water bottle, and the clothes on her back. But she was there on purpose, taking a wilderness survival class from the Wilderness Awareness School. Contestants on Survivor have camera crews and an emergency satellite phone they can use if things really go sideways, but you won’t have those luxuries if your four-day backpacking trip finds you lost in the North Cascades and running out of food fast. “Now I know I could do it,” says Thoe. Even weekend warriors will benefit from the experience, but it does require an intermediate level of physical fitness. Try the School’s other classes such as Wildlife Tracking and Wild Edible and Medicinal Plants to round out your newfound survival skills. Wilderness Awareness School, 425-788-1301; wildernessawareness.org

Washington Park Arboretum, Seattle
Hug a tree
A nature walk in the Washington Park Arboretum isn’t quite on par with scaling Mount Rainier, but despite its middle-of-the-city locale—at the corner of Madison Street and Lake Washington Boulevard—the park has a middle-of-nowhere charm. Start your expedition of the 230-acre -botanical wonderland at the Japanese Tea Garden, for eye-popping petals and pagoda’s aplenty, before winding along the trails in the hardwood forest and getting lost among the park’s 20,000 trees, shrubs, and vines from around the world. Washington Park Arboretum, 206-543-8800; depts.washington.edu/wpa/general.htm

Discovery Park, Seattle
Spy like an eagle
You’ll never spot more than a pigeon by bird-watching downtown, but minutes away, in Magnolia’s sprawling 534-acre Discovery Park, keep a lookout for birds to add to your life list. The park is so vast and its terrain is so varied it could pass for a canyon in the Cascades. Make that several canyons in the Cascades. As you meander among the meadows, you dip into tree-lined forests, and, rather suddenly, catch eyefuls of the Sound. Watch for eagles, owls, and blue herons along the way. Discovery Park, 206-386-4236; cityofseattle.net/parks/environment/discovpark

Bend, Oregon
Tuff stuff
Every outdoor sport has its mecca. For rock climbing that place is Smith Rock, about 20 miles north of Bend, Oregon. It offers legendarily grippy rock formations thanks to abundant tuff (compressed and cemented volcanic ash) from nearby Mount Bachelor, and plenty of climbing opportunities for beginners. And yes, there’s also one of the sport’s most difficult climbs: Just Do It, a super steep route best left for the pros. The sun blazes hot in summer, so plan to climb in the early morning or evening hours. Smith Rock State Park, 541-548-7501; smithrock.com

Mount Rainier, Washington
A cliff with a view
Palisades trail, a classic mountain bike ride off Highway 410 outside Greenwater, mixes hair-raising technical singletrack with some of the most impressive views of Mount Rainier in the state. After six miles and 1,600 feet of forest-road climbing, you plunge into high-alpine forest on the swooping Ranger Creek trail, arriving at a log-cabin shelter where the trail splits; from there, follow the Palisades trail off to your right. Here it really gets interesting: The singletrack zigzags through dense trees, repeatedly shooting you out on top of the trail’s namesake cliffs, where you come face to face with Mount Rainier across the White River valley. Survive the steep, rocky switchbacks toward the end, and you’ll find yourself back on Highway 410 with wobbly knees and an ear-to-ear smile. Visit the Backcountry Bicycle Trails Club site for driving directions and route details. Bicycle Trails Club, bbtc.org/wiki/index.php?title=trail:palisades

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Image: ATV Action Tours

Gold Bar, Washington
It’s a mud, mud, mud world
Mud is a fact of life in the Northwest, one many of us prefer to keep our Tevas out of. But to off-road quad riders (think of a rugged dirt-bike with four wheels instead of two), mud is the secret ingredient for a truly great day on the trails. "The mud was the highlight," says Trinity Osborn of her first quad trip in the Gold Bar area with ATV Action Tours. "That and going fast." A quick training session gets newcomers riding beginner to intermediate trails in short order. When the trail turns to mud, aim straight for the middle, and full speed ahead. ATV Action Tours, 206-369-5732; atvactiontours.com

Index, Washington
Extreme slip ‘n’ slide
Dave Haavik and friends have formed their own secret otter society, plummeting into remote creeks and rivers, melding hiking, climbing, and swimming into a unique sport called canyoneering. "It’s like being a kid again," says Haavik, a sales rep for the climbing-gear company Petzl. "And you get to go to places that almost no one else has ever seen." But it’s not something you can safely jump into on your own. Take an introductory class from Mountain Madness this August, where you’ll learn climbing basics and essential skills like rappelling, knot tying, and safe navigation in fast-moving water. Befriend a more experienced canyoneer at CanyoneeringNorthwest.com, and head to Silver Creek off Highway 2 near Index, Washington, for your first outing. Mountain Madness, 206-937-8389; mountainmadness.com

Vancouver Island, British Columbia
The 2.5-acre jungle gym
Think romping around an obstacle course is just for kids? Don’t tell Jeff Millar, a 62-year-old PR exec from Victoria. Millar went wild when he visited the giant jungle gym 90 minutes north of Victoria on British Columbia’s Vancouver Island. He went especially gaga for the TreeGo course: a series of four progressively more difficult routes through the trees using rope swings, scrambling walls, hanging nets, wobbly bridges, swinging logs, and zip lines. After that, there’s the option to do the Canyon Zip, a supersize zip line that traverses the Nanaimo River Canyon. "We did that one six times!" laughs Millar. Wild Play Element Park, 888-668-7874; wildplayparks.com

Blue Mountains, Washington
A tepee to call your own
Standing at 4,500 feet atop Puffer Butte, the ground falls away in endless small rippling hills, then plunges suddenly into the Grande Ronde River, a tributary of Idaho’s Snake River. Bright blue skies looming over arid, dry rolling hills—to a -Seattleite that doesn’t seem like an apt description of Washington. Yet this often-overlooked nook of our state, tucked in the very southeast corner in the Blue Mountains, offers outstanding camping, hiking, and high-desert scenery with far fewer crowds. Complete your escape (and leave the fancy REI nylon tent at home) by booking one of the Fields Spring State Park’s two tepees. These unique bare-bones canvas shelters are located in a quiet, secluded area of the park and sleep six people on raised wooden floors. Field Spring State Park, 509-256-3332; parks.wa.gov/parkpage

Siskiyou Mountains, Oregon
Treetop vacation
Who needs boring old earth when you can bring camping to a new level? Out ‘n’ About Treesort in the Siskiyou Mountains of southwest Oregon elevates guests in 11 custom-built tree houses, each with its own configuration of platforms, decks, bridges, and rope swings. For the resort’s most high-rise experience, book either the Treezebo or the Forestree cabin, 37 feet off the ground, and accessed via suspended bridge. After playing Swiss Family Robinson and falling asleep to the sounds of the forest and dreaming under the stars, strike out during the day for hiking, rafting, or horseback riding. Out ‘n’ About Treesort, 541-592-2208; treehouses.com/treehouse/treesort/

Woodland Park, Seattle
Trail surfing
Mountain boarding is an odd mutt of a sport: Riders pilot a wide plank that resembles a long board (an elongated skateboard suited for high-speed cruising), with chunky wheels and suspension like a mountain bike, and bindings to keep them strapped in, as with a snowboard. A mountain board can blaze through almost any terrain, from pavement to grassy hills and craggy rock-strewn mountain bike trails. In-the-know boarders hit Woodland Park, which sports nearly all of those surfaces. Boards available at Alki Bike and Board, 206-938-3322; www.alkibikeandboard.com

Leavenworth, Washington
A ride called horse
There’s no shame in taking the pack off your back and saddling up for a horseback adventure. Free of the extra weight, you’re able to cover more ground, savor far-off vistas, or watch wildlife without worrying where your next step will be. Book a trip with Leavenworth-based Icicle Outfitters and Guides, and they’ll get you into true wilderness and do all the hard work for you. The human members of the outfit will even cook you their legendary food. Day trips are perfect for families with young kids, and repeat clients glow about the Ride to the Sky trip, a four-day outing that takes you through the Entiat’s North Fork valley to the summit of Pyramid Mountain. Equine veterans and novices alike are welcome, and the outfitters will also customize just about any kind of trip you can dream up. Icicle Outfitters and Guides, 800-497-3912; www.icicleoutfitters.com

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Image: Skydive Kapowsin

AIR

Issaquah, Washington
Not just for the birds
No one’s done a scientific study yet, but paragliding may be the sport with the quickest transition from expletive spewing to declarations of awe. Strap into the harness and parachute-like glider, run down the side of a mountain until you’re aloft, and see how fast your "oh shits" turn to "oh look at thats." Seattle Paragliding in Issaquah gets you off the ground with tandem lessons, where you take your first few flights tucked in front of an experienced pilot like a baby kangaroo. Once airborne, you’ll catch sight of Mount Rainier, the Olympic peaks, Puget Sound, and yes, the Fraternity Snoqualmie Nudist Park a few miles south. Seattle Paragliding, 206-387-3477; seattleparagliding.com

Lake Union, Seattle
Your own private airline
A seaplane ride is one of the few adventures that’s even more amazing than it looks. You ascend from Lake Union, survey Puget Sound, and step out (in some cases minutes later) at a gorgeous destination. Put on your best pair of aviator sunglasses and tell the pilot to aim for the San Juans for hiking or kayaking, or strike further a field to Vancouver Island for Canadian adventures. Once the engine rumbles and your plane teeters off the water, we dare you not to utter the word "awesome" numerous times during the flight. Kenmore Air, 425-486-1257; kenmoreair.com

Shelton, Washington
Like D. B. Cooper but without, you know, taking hostages
"You’re so high up," says 21-year-old Brianne Hartinger, who took her first skydive last summer at Skydive Kapowsin in Shelton. "You can see everything right before you jump, even the curvature of the earth." If that image doesn’t terrify you, odds are you’re a good match for skydiving too. Jumps typically start at 9,000 feet (usually in tandem with an instructor for newcomers), and once you push out of the plane, you free-fall for half a minute or more at 120 miles per hour. Hartinger plans to go again this summer: "It was the most thrilling thing I’ve ever done." Skydive Kapowsin, 800-759-3483; skydivekapowsin.com

Amboy, Washington
Go jump off a bridge
On his first bungee jump eight years ago, Russell Boland, a construction project manager from Eugene, Oregon, said his mind convinced him he was going to die. "The adrenaline rush is so intense that some people say strange things on their way down, their body goes through crazy contortions," he recalls. The man upstairs tends to be frequently name-checked as people hurtle toward the ground. "And then when you spring back up, you are giggling and elated." He jumps regularly now in Amboy, Washington, just northeast of Vancouver, at Bungee.com, which operates the tallest private bungee-jumping bridge in the country, with 191 feet of free-falling, screamingly good fun. Bungee.com, 503-520-0303

Image: Riley Lassler

Snohomish Valley, Washington
Full of hot air
Scott "Gonzo" Gates, a Kirkland-based design engineer treated his wife to a 10th wedding anniversary surprise: A hot-air balloon flight. "The scenery was stunning, and our guide really made the experience memorable." From just over 1,000 feet off the ground, as the couple surveyed 360-degree views of Snohomish farmland, snowcapped mountains, and Puget Sound, they spotted a pair of blue herons gliding beneath the balloon. Book a group sunrise tour during late fall or winter—the group rate is considerably lower than the private rate—and odds are good you’ll have the balloon to yourselves. Airial Balloon, 360-568-3025; airialballoon.com

Elliott Bay, Seattle
Be a human kite
Entertaining out-of-towners? For a quick adventure that beats the rain slickers off the Needle or EMP, cajole your friends down to Pier 66 for an afternoon of parasailing. Strap into a harness and parachute, let the boat tug you along above Elliott Bay, and ride the wind like a kite. It’s a vacation in the sky. "Locals often overlook this touristy option," says U District resident Dave Hogan, "but it’s really a fun get-together." It requires little physical skill yet yields big adventure and unmatched Seattle skyline and Puget Sound views. Pier 66 Parasail, 206-622-5757

Overachieving Seattleite

Adventure Racing

You like to dabble: Last year it was learning to kayak, this year mountain biking caught your eye. What may seem like ADD to your friends is really your body’s way of saying that you should be adventure racing. Teams (usually between two and four people) combine trekking, running, biking, kayaking, and climbing with wilderness orienteering skills and the ability to go without sleep for days. Adventure races have few rules and are hosted on nearly every continent, but leave the GPSat home—teams use maps and a compass to navigate successive checkpoints across rugged terrain, in many cases for multiple days in a row. Start small and stay local with low-key, Seattle-based BEAST races, which offer introductory single-day events that aren’t as gear-intensive, and the option for individuals to tag along with a pro team to learn the ropes. BEAST, 206-979-8856; beastrace.com

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