My Island

Five locals on five isles—San Juan, Whidbey, Vancouver, Anderson, and Galiano—dish on how to make the most of your next island sojourn.

Edited by James Ross Gardner

WHIDBEY ISLAND

NORTH PUGET SOUND

Photo: Will Austin

Whidbey Island, where breathtaking panoramas abound.

by Marshall Bronson, bed-and-breakfast owner

AFTER 31 YEARS in the Navy, stationed at embassies and in DC, I wanted a life that was more tranquil. So in 1992 my wife and I took over the Compass Rose Bed and Breakfast (360-678-5318; www.compassrosebandb.com) in Coupeville. As soon as you get on the ferry to Whidbey from Mukilteo you experience a psychological drop, the sense that you’re leaving the congestion and the busyness of the metropolitan area. And once you’re on the island you instantly feel the openness and the trees and greenery. And the island isn’t flat, so you’re constantly going up and down and around things, which is interesting. Also, no traffic. Three cars, that’s a traffic jam here.

STAY

If you’re on the south end of the island, stay at Eagles Nest Inn (360-221-5331; www.eaglesnestinn.com) in Langley. It’s set in the woods and looks out on the Saratoga Passage to the east. The woman who runs it, Joanne Lechner, has a very thorough understanding of the surrounding trails. A Tuscan Lady (360-331-5057; www.atuscanlady.com) in Freeland is in a semiresidential area, but once you go within the walls you’ll see: It’s been magnificently done up like Tuscany.

In Coupeville, in addition to the Compass Rose, there’s The Blue Goose Inn (360-678-4284; www.bluegoosecoupeville.com), comprised of two restored late-1800s houses. Really nice rooms.

Photo: Courtesy A Tuscan Lady

A Tuscan Lady brings a slice of Italy to Whidbey.

EAT

The place to dine in Coupeville—people come up from Seattle all the time—is The Oystercatcher (360-678-0683; www.oystercatcherwhidbey.com). They have one variety of fish, fowl, meat, and vegetarian dish at a time. The menu changes, and therefore they dedicate themselves to turning each dish into an excellent thing. The restaurant at The Inn at Langley (360-221-3033; www.innatlangley.com) is probably the most elegant place to eat in Langley.

At Frasers Gourmet Hideaway (360-279-1231; www.frasersgh.com) you can sit and see the chef, Scott Fraser, preparing your meal. One more thing: Don’t leave Whidbey without eating Penn Cove mussels, which are sort of the sine qua non dish of nearly every restaurant here.

PLAY

The whole center of the island is Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve (www.nps.gov/ebla), which is part of the National Parks system and the country’s first historic reserve. That includes Coupeville, the second oldest town in the state. You can do a historic walking tour (www.nps.gov/ebla/upload/walkingtourpanels.pdf) of it in no time at all.

Another activity which is absolutely wonderful—people come from all over—is to hike Ebey’s beach and Ebey’s bluff (www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ebeys-landing). It’s about a two-and-a-half-hour walk, during which you overlook the Admiralty Inlet. That is an absolutely delightful thing to do. Traveling north from there, it’s also fun to visit the Lavender Wind Farm (360-678-0919; www.lavenderwind.com).