Spying Lewis and Clark’s path prepped me for my own expedition—beginning at the doorstep of Skamania Lodge. The pine-trimmed lobby is dominated by a two-sided stone fireplace with a wide hearth and a roaring fire, with rocking chairs and sofas positioned for quiet reading or contemplating flames; the other side of the room has soaring, cathedral-size windows overlooking the river gorge.
The 254-room manse, built in 1993, was a joint venture of the Columbia River Gorge Commission, the U.S. Forest Service, and the county of Skamania, among other partners. The purpose was to bring more tourism, and more jobs, to the area, which was hit hard by the collapse of the lumber industry. This humble origin is reflected in the neighborly hospitality extended by the resort’s staff, most of whom hail from the area and nearly three dozen of whom have worked here since it opened.
While there I caught up on reading in the library on the mezzanine, hit up the Waterleaf Spa—where one can indeed be massaged and covered in mud by aestheticians—and avoided by any means necessary the fitness center and indoor pool. I also chilled in my room, a Mission-style number with ultra-loaf-worthy leather armchairs (Tip: Upgrade to a deluxe river-view room for a fireplace and a deck with eyeshots of the gorge), and thought a whole lot about the 18-hole golf course, the private walking trails, and the activities desk where the beaming concierge will hook you up with windsurfing lessons or guided hikes to view wildflowers.
And I ate. The Cascade Room does a solid job with everything from a crab-mushroom omelet for breakfast to a coriander-crusted lingcod for dinner; Sunday brunches are big family gatherings; and the wine list specializes in Oregon and Washington vintners. (Another tip: Hold out till lunch and roll the one and a half mile into town for burgers at the Big River Grill.)
Speaking of wine, I didn’t just lie around the lodge my whole visit. Sheesh. I also sallied forth on Highway 14 in search of the good stuff. Along the way mountains gave way to the rolling farms and pastures of the east. The road hugged the river’s edge and a tugboat pushed a huge barge west toward Portland. Then the asphalt entered tunnels drilled through the mountains, and a long train chugged along a nearby track. I ended my journey at the Maryhill Winery at Goldendale, which has a lovely terrace overlooking the river and rows of vines that produce the grapes for the winery’s award-winning (and bargain priced) cabernets, chardonnays, and unusual varietals like malbec and barbera. Thus pleasantly invigorated by the majesty of nature and fortified by wine, I backtracked to Skamania Lodge, where more wallowing commenced.
Look, there will always be Paris. The economy will get better. We could gnash our teeth and rough it in the wilderness from now until Christmas, and forage for grubs and roots for sustenance. But honestly, why would we when the Skamanians have done so much to keep us dry and warm and well-fed?
WHEN YOU GO
STAY
Skamania Lodge
509-427-7700
EAT
Big River Grill
509-427-4888
The Cascade Room, Skamania Lodge
509-427-2508
DO
Published: May 2009
