It's a national chain with an appealingly regional cast to its oxblood opulence, from its location in the historic Cobb Building, dead-center downtown, to its lush gilt-framed portraits of historic Seattle figures. It's also a pretty good steakhouse; the only in town to dry age its own beef on premise. The steak is fine (though we preferred the natural textures of the wet-aged beef) but the usual-suspect side orders are even better—salads with bacon, rich potato dishes, great appetizers (meaty lobster-and-crab cakes, a wonderful peppery calamari), and don't-miss desserts. And if the copious staff is sometimes less than informed, it is never less than stunningly choreographed. Valet parking is complimentary evenings only.