Taste

Editor’s Pick

$$$ American/New American

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After its identity crisis right out of the blocks, the Seattle Art Museum’s downtown commissary hit the reset button and found itself—making this one of the urban core’s better casual food stops. Gone from the tall-windowed sidewalk storefront are the stark-white cafeteria hard edges, softened now with tawny upholstery and half-moon banquettes. The menu offers ladies-lunching-classics-gone-upscale, like frittata with Quillisascut chevre or an elegant chopped salad with Salumi charcuterie; and dinners of unexpected reach, as in the lamb rack with cherry jus or the pork belly confit with horseradish puree and grapefruit gastrique. The kitchen cares about sourcing (about half the menu items hail from within 150 miles, with the rest trying hard for organic or other forms of correctness), which the well-heeled urban gambolers don’t mind paying for. It also cares about dessert, with—among other delights—luscous ice cream.

Last updated: 03/07/2014