The bright, warmly industrial space in the lobby of the Via6 apartments is the Asian fusion joint Tom Douglas has been hinting at for years. One of a tangle of Douglas businesses including a coffeehouse and a gift shop, the setup can be confusing (is this patio table for sale, or am I in another restaurant?). Once seated, however, the place buzzes with a drop-in youthfulness befitting the menu of boundary-busting Asian comfort foods—things like ketchup-bacon fried rice or pork and sweet corn ramen—that will horrify purists but kick off cravings for everyone else. Drinks, boozy or un-, are uncommonly intriguing here.

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