Sushiphiles have been following around Taichi -Kitamura for years—from his days training with Shiro’s maestro Shiro Kashiba, to his late, great Chiso in Fremont, to his monthly cooking sorties up to sushi-starved Whidbey Island. Now he holds forth in a serene space on Eastlake, done in sleek neutrals, and it may be his finest yet. His passion is the multicourse chef’s-choice freshness parade known as omakase—it may star stunning Skagit River Ranch beef shoulder, or velvety morsels of local albacore you can cut with your tongue—which costs $100 and 24-hours’ worth of notice. But regular diners have the same access to Kitamura’s exquisite sources and will benefit just as richly from his uncommonly refined and silken way around a raw fish. Servers, deeply informed, are usually terrific.