Sushiphiles have been following around Taichi Kitamura for years—from his days training with Shiro’s maestro Shiro Kashiba, to his late, great Chiso in Fremont, to his monthly cooking sorties up to sushi-starved Whidbey Island. Now he holds forth in a serene space on Eastlake, done in sleek neutrals, and it may be his finest yet. His passion is the multicourse chef’s-choice freshness parade known as omakase—it may star stunning Skagit River Ranch beef shoulder, or velvety morsels of local albacore you can cut with your tongue. But regular diners have the same access to Kitamura’s exquisite sources and will benefit just as richly from his uncommonly refined and silken way around a raw fish. Servers, deeply informed, are usually terrific.