It’s vegetarian (even vegan and/or gluten free), situated in a South End public housing project, and owned by lesbians who renounce high-fructose corn syrup. When some comedian creates a TV spoof called -Seattleiana, it will undoubtedly be set at St. Dames. But dismiss the vivid little candlelit destination dinner house at your own peril, for it is well loved for its nuanced way with brunch and dinner comfort foods, butternut gnocchi (with mushrooms, hazelnuts, and blue cheese, served with kale) to “meatloaf” (nut and lentil loaf in a ketchup glaze with whipped -vegetables, served with kale). And if a spinach-yam quesadilla with vegan remoulade was a bit wanting in the flavor department, a side of Indian-spiced hush puppies with tamarind-mint dip handily banished the bland. As did a margarita made of frisky jalapeno tequila, available as part of St. Dames’s nicely stocked bar.