Praise the Lord and pass the foraged fungi—Tom Douglas has opened a pizzeria. Three of them, in fact: affordable, drop-in, takeout departures from his destination restaurants (you know, Dahlia Lounge, et al.) but the food is taken every bit as, like the sign says, seriously. Wild mushrooms, Penn Cove clams, and housemade mozzarella light upon rustic apple-wood-smoky crusts with lots of blistery crackle and satisfying chew in each bite. A short list of fresh appetizers at the start, a couple of memorable finales—just say "cannoli"—and Italian wines and beer (Manny’s Pale Ale to Pabst Blue Ribbon) round out the menu with laudable brevity. The rough-hewn spaces are small but fit enough long plank tables to seat a crowd and boast enormous granite pizza ovens to keep every last one of them happy.