The bricks-and-mortar restaurant version of fabled New Orleans food truck, Where Ya At Matt?—Roux on the Fremont Avenue hill radiates rustic Southern sweetness in a high-ceilinged room with red-tufted booths and a central open kitchen. Lunch may be the best time to visit, when sunlight streams in the windows and the menu lists nearly a dozen varieties of po’boy sandwich—of which the oyster version is the finest in town. Evenings when the lights go down, the music goes up, the mixologist revs up, and prices gently rise—Roux’s plates of bold Creole classics can be terrific, particularly the shrimp and grits. If braised rabbit leg with greens over cornbread puree is on the menu—order it. And save room for swoony beignets.