Rione XIII

Editor’s Pick

$$

Ethan Stowell's tribute to the delights of Roman cuisine hit the corner of 15th and Harrison so old-souled and vibrant it felt essential from its first week. It's urban cozy, with medieval notes—stone walls, clerestory windows, warm wood-burning hearth—that strike a winning contrast with the mod mix of Hillsters who pop in for lunch and dinner. They're chewing golden pizza crusts topped with things liarred padron peppers, and pickled red onions; they're spreading terrific salted housemade mozzarella and peach mostarda onto crusty toasted baguettes; they're swooning over pastas like the smoky guanciale with chili pepper. Look for big meat plates, Roman-style gnocchi (made with semolina not potato), and a killer fried artichoke appetizer.
Last updated: 11/19/2012