Mandarin Chef

Editor’s Pick

$ Chinese

Seattle turns out to be a bastion of the hand-shaved noodle, the ancient Chinese delectable that comes from knifing long strips of dough off the mother ball to create fresh, chewy, irregularly shaped noodles that cling to sauce with particular ferocity. Everyone has their favorite place for these; ours is Mandarin Chef, an Ave storefront run by a Szechuan couple with just the skill sets—Sang Lam is a masterful chef, his wife Lang a deeply adorable hostess—to open a restaurant. And though he did noodle time at Judy Fu’s Snappy Dragon, the ones he’s making in his own kitchen are even better: curly, slightly wrinkled, slimmer than many, but every bit as toothsome in a fine shrimp chow mein. Dumplings rock, too.

Last updated: 12/12/2012