What was once the place in Fremont for outrageous oversize burger combos traded up in polish but down in soul when it relocated into shiny corporate digs in the sure-thing South Lake Union neighborhood. But the old verve lives on in items like the blue-cheese burger, enlivened with gorgonzola sauce and balsamic onions. Sure, it’s a place that will invite you to consider the Big Questions—does the world really need a 10-layer, five-inch mountain of beef with honey-cured bacon and melted American cheese?—but perfectly crisped tater tots and a world of burger choices compensate.

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