Le Petit Cochon

$$$ American/New American

In a spot twinkling and cozy, with an upstairs view out over the heart of Fremont, owner-chef Derek Ronspies makes mad use of every last part of the animals he serves, duck testicles and pig face to blood sausage and offal crepinette. (It won’t be for everyone.) But Ronspies’s devotion to pork, short but various menu (including plenty of fish and vegetables), surprisingly classical culinary vision, and killer cocktails ensure that it will be for a whole lot of people. His two-inch-thick Olsen Farms pork chop is not just dinner, it’s a revelation—flawlessly moist, and big enough for two to use as a base around which to assemble a feast.  

Last updated: 12/18/2013