Bite beyond the crust, and you’ll find the true difference between Eltana’s bagels and most Seattle joints’ is the texture. Chewier and denser (a result of hand-rolling, which develops the gluten) with a slightly sweet layer underneath heaps of seeds, it’s a true Montreal-style bagel. The decided Eastern Mediterranean leaning in toppings completes the sense that you are not in Seattle anymore, in this high-ceilinged Pike/Pine pitstop.

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