Dinette

Editor’s Pick

$$ Continental

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It's a little dinner joint resembling a warm house party in someone's funky first apartment—paper lanterns, festive colors, gold filigree embellishments on the walls, twinkling votives after dark—tucked into a storefront on Olive Way's plunge into downtown. Plates of rustic European fare—perhaps handmade ricotta gnocchi with braised beef short-rib ragu, a beautifully proportioned roasted lamb and bread salad, or pan-seared scallops cleverly served over lemon risotto—are simple, affordable, and effortlessly elegant, particularly when noshed upon with something liquid off the well-chosen European-heavy list. (Cocktails, too!) But most fun is the toast, thick-cut Columbia City Bakery bread slathered with gloriously oiled toppings from halibut rillettes to eggplant caponata to a winning fig, anchovy, and walnut spread with arugula and prosciutto. Sure, it's a carb shrine—why do you think so many people love it? Service can be moody.

Last updated: 06/13/2012