Crush

Editor’s Pick

$$$ Continental

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A century-old house at the gritty confluence of 23rd and Madison, refurbished inside to ultramod specs with creamy curvilinear plastic and composite marble and jammed with gorgeous young epicureans flashing perfect teeth—Crush feels a lot more LA than Seattle. But the kitchen maintains a monkish devotion to sustainable, organic, and otherwise pristine local ingredients, which it wrests into stylized presentations featuring layered flavors and great mouthfeel (read: comfort food)—slow-braised short ribs, wild mushroom–and–duck confit tart—which only occasionally topple into pretension. Prices are admirably lower than they could be, especially in view of a bar favored by the young and the leggy.

Last updated: 09/21/2012