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Canlis has been perched out over the vertiginous eastern edge of Queen Anne Hill for over 50 years. That makes it about as classic as it gets in this town—right down to the reconstructed surf-and-turf menu, the midcentury split-level architecture (a marvel of luxurious restraint), the dinner-jacketed clientele, the noblest mixed drinks in town, the fathoms-deep wine list, the perfectionist standard of service (where the valets remember your car without aid of a claim ticket), and the whole breathtaking sweep of Lake Union twinkling just beyond the windows. Those who haven’t been in a while might not recognize the experimentation in the chef’s tasting menu, but the third generation of Canlis family operators have transformed what was once the most intimidating dining room in Seattle into a friendlier, almost folksy place. The food remains, as ever, impeccable.

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