When the time comes, and it will, that your houseguests beg you for a glimpse of Seattle authenticity, bring them to the Swingside. The knotty pine walls and cramped quarters and cozily steamed windows convey the kind of rumpled charm that Seattleites, especially Fremonsters, don't easily resist, and the result is the textbook neighborhood restaurant. Brad Inserra, owner and chef, turns out Italian comfort food with keen attention to sources, from organic lamb to blue-ribbon Pino Rogano handmade pork sausage. The finished products tend toward luscious, imperfectly wrought but compulsively eatable one-dish meals, like a fragrant and well-stocked bouillabaisse or—Brad's signature dish—a fully lubed aglio e olio veritably aquiver with garlic. It's Montepulciano food, best enjoyed with a tableful of friends against the mellow virtuosity of live musicians (Inserra books the best, often unadvertised), who are interrupted frequently by eruptions of laughter. Lunches come and go; call ahead.