An undersized North Carolina roadhouse in Frelard with crashing music and 100-proof moonshine also has a maestro at the helm: Mike Law, who applies his impressive culinary pedigree to Texas smoked brisket and lemony fried chicken. Sides trend bland (best are the vinegary cole slaw and subtly lovely grits) and inconsistency can plague the meats, but take advantage of Law’s culinary ingenuity by ordering off the daily specials board—especially his salads and outlandish, unmissable desserts.

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