It’s less a restaurant than it is a three-course family-style dinner party, held four nights weekly (plus Sunday brunch!) in an airy converted auto shop in Ballard. And just like at a dinner party you’ll have no menu choice (unless you phoned in food restrictions) and no idea who you’re sitting with. In other words: big fun for some, sheer hell for others, and a huge romp for a chef who’s equal parts extrovert, locavore, and lovely cook. Big bowls of glistening Little Gem lettuce salads, platters of roasted pork shoulder over crusted gnocchi with porcini, summer squash speckled with onion and mint—this food is satisfying as Sunday supper at Mom’s, and only $40 a head (including a glass of wine and gratuity). Come with a gang and it’s an entirely different joy.