Price Scale

Boldly overseen by larger-than-life proprietor Mauro Golmarvi—benevolently regarded by the cherubim and seraphim painted all over the wall and ceiling murals—Assaggio may at first seem a throwback to the more clichéd conventions of Italian restaurant dining. Not so fast. There's a reason this room, graciously highceilinged and partitioned to resemble a European streetscape, sustains the devotion of midtown business-lunchers and evening pasta-twirlers alike. (Hint: It comes out of the kitchen.) Execution is steady and impressive on classic pastas—linguine vongole, a beautifully briny capellini donato, fettucine swathed in a meaty Bolognese—and wickedly rich specials, like one astonishing risotto lavished to a turn with pork loin and portobellos. But the Northern Italian place is quite capable of a lighter touch, as in a crisply refreshing fennel-and-green-apple salad with pecorino Romano and truffle oil. Classic Italian desserts are sumptuous.

Meal Times
Dessert, Dinner, Happy Hour, Lunch
Good to Know
Outdoor Dining, Reservations, Takeout
Good For
Business Lunch, Private Parties