Don’t hate her because she’s beautiful. This window-walled sensation at the tip of Pier 70 features cruise-ship vistas of Elliott Bay, along with an interior view—shiny exhibition kitchen, shiny copper light fixtures, shiny gorgeous people—to rival them. All brought to you by prolific impresario Paul Mackay (El Gaucho, Troiani), who has cast Waterfront as a splashy throwback to the days when Fancy Restaurant meant sultry piano bar and spendy surf and turf (an $89 plate of tenderloin and lobster). But Waterfront’s beauty is more than skin deep, if a subtle Thai seafood stew (with exquisite fish) and a truffle-oiled lobster risotto, compelling all the way to the bottom of the dish, are any indication. She’s no cheap date, but the terrific rotating list of oysters, frisky cocktails, and Seattle’s best warm-weather patio for sunset vistas round out her charms.