Don’t hate her because she’s beautiful. This sprawling, window-walled sensation at the tip of Pier 70 features cruise-ship vistas of Elliott Bay, along with an interior view—shiny exhibition kitchen, shiny copper light fixtures, shiny gorgeous people—to rival them. All brought to you by the same folks behind bet-a-million local steak house chain, El Gaucho. So: piano bar, check; $82 plate of filet and lobster tail, check. Asian-tweaked fish treatments can hold more culinary intrigue but have proven inconsistent in the execution realm. Still, the plus column is far from empty, featuring a good rotating list of oysters, surprisingly substantive cocktails, a warm-weather patio for sunset loveliness, and Seattle’s most dazzling glass-enclosed private room at the end of the pier.