Anchovies and Olives

Editor’s Pick

$$$ Italian

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Everyone looks deadly chic against the windows and cement of this minimalist corner room in Pike/Pine, but the most seafoody of Ethan Stowell’s empire (which also includes Tavolàta, How to Cook a Wolf, Staple and Fancy, and Rione XIII) is surprisingly down-to-earth and welcoming. It’s all about the food, after all: a broad crudo menu featuring the freshest local shellfish (often swimming-that-morning oysters), and rarely seen seafood flown in from exotic offshore locales, highlighted with Italian embellishments. When the kitchen’s on, it’s off the charts, presenting wonders like Arctic char over fregola pasta, with nettles, currants, and speck; and trafficking in the same acerbic, briny, and tangy flavor families that dominate dinner at his other joints. (If you don’t like anchovies or olives, in other words…this may not be the place for you.)

Read our interview with A&O co-owner Patric Gabre-Kidan, and learn the five things you thought you knew about A&O.

Last updated: 10/22/2013