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The workingman’s cafe with the bistro sheen may look like a Chinatown storefront (this block’s a bit dodgy), but inside, the clattering and brightly lit 663 is really a Hong Kong–style cafe—and, in our view, the best of that genre in town. Here live gentle Cantonese wontons and great salt-and-pepper chicken wings and terrific barbecued meats and a surprisingly mean curry; the city’s best pea vines and a glistening haystack of pan-fried chow mein noodles studded with seafood. Barbecue from the takeout corner spreads the joy. Night owls know to get their orders in before 2am weekends to beat the barflies.