Pleasant 50 North across from U Village looks like an unassumingly upholstered cafe with a crowd-pleaser family menu starring burgers, cracker-bread pizzas, salads, and fried chicken plates. Look deeper. The shiny new sister of Vashon’s Hardware Store pioneers radical territory: sustainable sourcing and vegcentric cooking in a package aimed at everyman. So a plate of meaty Bolgonese is actually crammed with vegetables (organic ones!); all-natural short ribs with a sassy pomegranate glaze come with parsnip-celeriac puree and a bright fennel-apple salad; sustainably caught salmon arrives crusted with pistachios upon an organic leek and fennel sauce. It’s bright, intelligent food lavishly accommodating diets from vegan to gluten-free, all day long. What could be more accessible than that?