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This perpetually undervalued bistro in Fremont looks polished and polite enough for the well heeled, but it is down-to-earth and underpriced enough even for Fremonsters. Those who have found it share the secret of the sunny high-windowed space (RIP Still Life) and the stylishly executed Provençal-inspired bistro classics to be savored there: moules frites, creamy omelets at brunch, a fine salade niçoise. The bar menu features good cheap nibbles (including swoony frites dusted with pepper and reggiano cheese, then drizzled with crème fraîche) and reason enough to order one of their signature Bellinis, which flow through this civilized joint like a Seattle downspout in April.

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