71 • 2005 Waving Tree Winery Nebbiolo, $40
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington
The world’s best Nebbiolos come from Piedmont in Italy, and Waving Tree has created an inspiring replica of those wines with this 2005 bottle.
Taste Scents of roses and tar.
Sip tip Surprise the Italian-wine lover in your life, who probably doesn’t know that nebbiolo can grow in the Northwest.
Cellar life 5+
72 • 2004 Glen Fiona Basket Press Reserve Syrah, $30
Columbia Valley, Washington
Using a basket press, a 1,000-year-old grape-crushing device, Glen Fiona has created a delicious medium-full syrah with a long finish.
Taste Viognier grapes lend a hint of honeysuckle to the smoked-meat and leather flavors typical of syrah.
Sip tip We like it with garlicky spinach or sautéed black chanterelles.
Cellar life 5+
73 • 2006 Nefarious Cellars Estate Rocky Mother Vineyard Syrah, $38
Columbia Valley, Washington
Dean and Heather Neff are the couple behind Nefarious Cellars, and the division of labor
is simple: He makes the reds (this broodingly dark syrah included), she makes the whites.
Taste Superconcentrated, lurking flavors.
Sip tip Currently this wine has very little bouquet, but give it five years and it will turn heads.
74 • 2005 Nota Bene Cellars Syrah, $30
Washington
The label says syrah, but 25 percent of the fruit are grenache grapes grown at the Stone Tree Vineyard in Grant County, Washington.
Taste Scents of leather and cherries.
Sip tip Why not schedule a tasting at Nota Bene headquarters in Seattle’s South Park neighborhood?
Cellar life 5+
75 • 2006 Scott Paul La Paulée Pinot Noir, $40
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Owners Scott and Martha Wright make delightful wines like this light-colored pinot, and moonlight as importers of bottles from Burgundy.
Taste Long on flavor, with red raspberry fruits of the Dundee Hills and black cherry fruit of Ribbon Ridge.
Sip tip Named for a traditional autumn harvest celebration in France’s Burgundy region, the homeland of pinot noir, this wine has never met a turkey dinner it didn’t like.
Cellar life 5+
76 • 2006 William Church Jennifer’s Syrah, $28
Yakima Valley, Washington
Erstwhile computer geek Rod Balsley’s tiny Woodinville winery opened just three years ago. This intense syrah proves what a quick learner the ex-techie really is.
Taste A texture and scent of soft plush leather with overtones of wild game.
Sip tip Drink while sitting on the porch in fall with a blanket over your knees, watching the leaves change color.
Cellar life 10+
77 • 2006 Evesham Wood Le Puits Sec Chardonnay, $18
Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon
This chard’s flavors coalesce beautifully around food, but it also thrives on its own.
Taste Well-integrated oak; full midpalate flavor and excellent length.
Sip tip On a prearranged visit to the winery, quaff samples at the winemaker’s home.
Cellar life 5+
78 • 2007 Trium Gold Vineyard Viognier, $20
Rogue Valley, Oregon
Viognier has a bright future in Southern Oregon, especially when tended by a careful grower like Randy Gold.
Taste An oily texture; apricot and honeysuckle flavors and fine palate persistence.
Sip tip This is our favorite varietal to drink while cracking into freshly caught Dungeness crab.
Cellar life 0
79 • 2007 Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards Grüner Veltliner, $22
Umpqua Valley, Oregon
Winemaker Stephen Reustle hits the spicy-refreshing mark with this grüner veltliner, an Austrian varietal made for moderately cool climates.
Taste Concentrated flavors of dill, cucumber, and ground white pepper.
Sip tip It’s delicious with a salad or white pizza generously sprinkled with goat cheese.
Cellar life 0
80 • 2005 Arlington Road Cellars Monolith Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot–Cabernet Franc–Malbec, $40
Columbia Valley, Washington
Arlington Road’s restrained blend is a dead ringer for a Bordeaux-grown wine.
Taste Excellent balance of tannins, acidity, and alcohol.
Sip tip Monolith will age well, but already has an elegance uncommon in a wine so young.
Cellar life 10+
Published: September 2008
