14 | Get Moonstruck in the Paris of Montana
Missoula, Montana, is a cultural outpost in Big Sky country—thanks to an artist revolution in the 1960s led in part by celebrated Seattle poet Richard Hugo. John Updike later dubbed the town “the Paris of the ’90s.” Literary luminaries now flock to the Montana Festival of the Book (406-243-6022; humanitiesmontana.org). Get up before dawn for the Sunrise Magic ride at Dunrovin Ranch (406-273-7745; dunrovinranchmontana.com), a horseback trip through moonlit meadows to watch the sun rise while enjoying a Dutch oven breakfast and campfire lattes. Survey contemporary pieces by Montana and Native American artists at the Missoula Art Museum (406-728-0447; missoulaartmuseum.org). Dig into smoked bison with red wine and huckleberry sauce at Pearl’s Café and Bakery (406-541-0231; www.pearlcafe.us). Turn in at The Wilma (stayatthewilma.com), which rents stylish condos above downtown’s famed 1921 Wilma Theatre.
Drive time 7 hours
When to go International Wildlife Media Center and Film Festival, May 9–16
15 | Ditch Your Car in Bike City
Once you arrive in Bellingham’s bustling waterfront Fairhaven district, park your car and forget about it. Tucked just 21 miles south of the Canadian border, this college town could teach Mayor Nickels a thing or two about how to be truly bike friendly. Bike-only lanes abound, and no business is complete without a rack out front. If you don’t have your own bike, rent one at Fairhaven Bike and Ski (360-733-4433; fairhavenbike.com). Take a spin around the waterfront and Harris Street’s historical buildings. Once evening rolls around make the one-mile trip in minutes flat to downtown Bellingham for wood-fired pizza and vino at La Fiamma, followed by an outdoor movie next to the Boundary Bay Brewery and Bistro (360-647-5593; bbaybrewery.com). No sunny Sunday would be complete without a ride down Chuckanut Drive, carving tight turns hundreds of feet up from the coastline of Bellingham Bay, only to be spat out into verdant, rolling farmland for the return trip.
Drive time 1 hour, 30 minutes
When to go June, when the farmers markets are bustling
16 | Enjoy an Art Weekend in that Other Big Western Washington City
Over the past decade, Tacoma has transformed from a suburban wasteland famous for gritty industries (like the “aroma of Tacoma”–producing Simpson Tacoma Kraft pulp mill) into an eclectic mix of iconic museums and upscale cuisine. The Tacoma Art Museum (253-272-4258; tacomaartmuseum.org) houses a rich collection of nineteenth-century European, twentieth-century American, and Japanese art. While Tacoma is an easy day trip, there is good reason to stay overnight—tequila flights and homemade chiles rellenos at Masa (253-473-3510; masatacoma.com). So check in at Hotel Murano (253-254-0560; hotelmuranotacoma.com), which displays world-class glass art and is named for a famous Venetian glass-making island.
Drive time 45 minutes
When to go National Arts Program Exhibit, June and July
17 | Sip Samples at Walla Walla’s Spring Release
Put away your best Sideways lines because in Walla Walla you’re drinking merlot. Merlot is the state’s signature grape and Walla Walla is home to Dunham Cellars (509-529-4685; dunhamcellars.com), whose top-rated merlot drew raves from Wine Enthusiast for its “seamless, full-throttle flavors.” Sample these and 30 other varietals from over 120 wineries at the annual Walla Walla Valley Spring Release in May. Sniff, swirl, and sip some of the country’s best syrahs made by wine’s wild child Charles Smith at K Vintners (509-526-5230; kvintners.com), visit Leonetti Winery (509-525-1428; leonetticellar.com), birthplace of the 1978 cabernet sauvignon that was anointed best in the country by Wine and Spirits, and test-drive new releases from Food and Wine 2007 Winery of the Year, Long Shadows Vintners (509-526-0905; longshadows.com). Prepare for a day of winery-hopping with a high-protein breakfast at Mr. Ed’s Restaurant (509-525-8440), and take a break from the vino with a pear, turkey breast, and brie panino at Creek Town Café (509-522-4777; creektowncafe.com). Or picnic on winery grounds with a grab-and-go gourmet feast from Luscious by Nature (509-522-0424; lusciousww.com). After the last tasting, stumble back to Fat Duck Inn (509-526-3825; fatduckinn.com), which offers homey guest rooms and multicourse dinners featuring seasonal dishes such as merlot-cured and cherry-smoked salmon.
Drive time 4 hours, 30 minutes
When to go Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend, May 1–3
18 | Rockport Isn’t Just for the Birds
Most folks pour into Rockport State Park to sneak peeks at its celebrities: Hundreds of bald eagles—the largest congregation in the lower 48—wheeling over the Skagit River from November to March. But we also love Rockport in the off-season. The 670-acre old-growth forest, which has never seen a logging truck, is as pristine a wilderness as they come. Clamor out of the woods, where the canopy’s so thick that nary a speck of sunshine cuts through, and ascend 5,400 feet up Sauk Mountain for a bird’s-eye view of the Skagit carving its ancient path through the valley. Later, carve your own path on a float down the river with Blue Sky Outfitters (206-938-4030; blueskyoutfitters.com). Then rent one of the themed cabins decorated in Western, Adirondack, Native American, and seven other motifs at Clark’s Skagit River Cabins and Resort (360-873-2250; northcascades.com), and chow on venison, ostrich, or elk burgers, and buffalo steaks at the Buffalo Run Restaurant (360-873-2461; buffaloruninn.com), a kitschy roadside diner whose owners also run a buffalo ranch.
Drive time 2 hours, 10 minutes
When to go After March, when the crowds have flown the coop
19 | Ride the Snake Through Hell
Nez Percé Indian folklore claims coyotes armed with massive sticks dug Hells Canyon in Oregon’s Blue Mountains. Geology says North America’s deepest gorge was carved by the 1,040-mile Snake River, slithering from its source in the Rocky Mountains in Wyoming to the Columbia River in Washington. Regardless of which origin story you believe, admire the black and green basalt cliffs towering 8,000 feet over the rushing river, explore the canyon’s rich history through pictographs, petroglyphs, and early settler ruins, and conquer some of the most challenging white water in the Northwest on a rafting trip down the Snake River. Paddlers capable of handling the rushing waters, which range from mild (Class II) to wild (Class V), can push off near the Hells Canyon Creek Visitor Center (541-785-3395). Outfitters operate guided trips for those lacking the necessary experience or gear. Hughes River Expeditions (208-257-3477; hughesriver.com) and the Council, Idaho, dude ranch Seven Devils Lodge (208-253-3015; sevcendevilslodge.com) each offer an all-in-one solution that includes accommodations, meals, and horseback riding. Row Adventures (800-451-6034; rowadventures.com) leads several overnight excursions, but its tastiest is the Culinary Whitewater Rafting trip, which demonstrates the art of preparing gourmet campfire meals using a Dutch oven.
Drive time 7 hours, 40 minutes
When to go May to October
20 | Tee It Up and Chow It Down
It’s all about elevation at the Suncadia Resort (suncadiaresort.com), on the far side of Snoqualmie Pass, between Roslyn and Cle Elum. At 2,250-feet above sea level, the 6,400-acre resort and its Prospector golf course (866-715-5050) are an alpine retreat of woodsy lodgings with sweeping views of the adjacent Wenatchee National Forest. Designed by Arnold Palmer, the 7,100-yard course was rated one of the top new public courses when it debuted in 2006. The 10th hole provides both the best view and the most memorable drive of all, with a tee box perched 120 feet above the fairway. Crane your neck from here and you can also see the Lodge at Suncadia (866-904-6301), with 254 rooms and suites in a mountain-style lodge of peeled wood and stone fireplaces, as well as the resort’s indoor-outdoor swimming complex and spa. The 18-room Inn at Suncadia (866-904-6301) is cozier, and a big vacation house with wraparound porches are available to rent. Inside the lodge, executive chef Andrew Wilson, who came over from Microsoft, oversees the fine-dining duties at Portals (509-649-6473). His Tasmanian salmon is well worth the climb up the mountain.
Drive time 1 hour, 30 minutes
When to go July and August
Published: January 2009
