Salt-brined zucchini! Why don’t more kitchens do this? At A La Bonne Franquette, a swanky find of a neighborhood restaurant in Mt. Baker, it was sliced translucent-thin, crisp with freshness, devilishly salted, and shingled over toasted baguette slices spread with goat cheese, enhanced with thyme and cream.
These were served with frisky greens, whose vinaigrette balanced the cream and mitigated the saltiness. On the whole: original, harmonious, and ferociously edible.
The place is prized by its neighborhood with good reason: Its chef presents French warhorses with so much skill and care, it’s as if every plate were for family.