Pizzeria Gabbiano opens officially today, though Mike Easton and his crew snipped off squares of Roman pizza al taglio at a preview lunch on Friday.

The buzz is mighty and the place is small. So if you venture down to Second and Main, be prepared for a line. Here's what you can expect. 

Eat: As much or as little as you want. Step up to the counter, marvel at the lineup of five or six pizzas, and tell the staff how big a piece you can handle. Your request is complied with using a large pair of scissors, then you pay by weight. As soon as one pizza is gone, pizza overseer  Johannes Heitzeberg and crew are ready with a replacement; come back in an hour, the lineup of toppings will be completely different. There's usually a margherita, a pie that includes meat like the house-cured mortadella or capicola, and plenty of vegetable-focused combos like zucchini and housemade ricotta or a colorful jumble of summer squash on tomato sauce. 

Drink: Beer and wine—with lunch. What, you were expecting an Old Fashioned? The place is only open 11 to 3. Gabbiano also has a retail license if you need a bottle to go.

Sit: Anywhere you can. There's a long communal table with sharp red stools, and some seats along the window. You will undoubtedly get to know your neighbors. And that's okay. You can also do takeout.

Bonus Intel: "Gabbiano" is the Italian word for seagull. Though Pizzeria Gabbiano is just a few blocks closer to the water than Il Corvo, there do seem to be significantly more gulls along these downtown blocks. "We're sticking with the urban birds," says Easton. If he ever does a bar, it will probably be Il Piccione.

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