Sometimes a restaurant critic’s notebook says it best. “Benton’s bacon, fried oysters, butter lettuce, and tomato sandwich,” read my notes from Wandering Goose. “INSANE!!!”
Oyster sandwiches are a dicey business, vulnerable to a multitude of errors from over-breading to gloppy toppings. Chef Michael Law, who spent several years in New Orleans kitchens, brings the requisite delicacy to the task. The bread is featherweight toasted brioche, which nonetheless has the mettle to stand up to the juices; the juices include a wash of pepper jelly that brilliantly complements the bacon and the oysters.
And the oysters, those tasty little buggers, are draped in a batter that’s flavorful and crispy and angelically light. Making this a fine oyster sandwich for people who don’t like oyster sandwiches—and the very best one for people who do.