Doughnuts of all stripes are found in this city, but rarely does one encounter malasadas. Sweeter and eggier than your typical doughnut, malasadas are of Portuguese origin and when traditionally done, devoid of fillings. In Hawaii “they’re all over the place,” says Josh Goldman. “They’re incredibly popular.”
And so shall they be in Seattle. Today Goldman and his brother Gabe launch Lucky Devil Doughnut Co., a food truck devoted to the sugar-dusted orbs. They cost $1, are fried on the spot, and taste best when still hot, advises Josh, who has spent time in Rover’s, Ray’s Boathouse, and Tom Douglas kitchens. He’ll be the guy running the show; Gabe, a graphic designer, is more behind-the-scenes and the one responsible for the truck’s fetching look. Growing up the brothers spent considerable time in Hawaii, hence the focus on malasadas.
Traditionalists will find cake doughnuts as well as maple and chocolate bars. The Hole-y Rollers, or doughnut holes, are gussied up with some decidedly less traditional toppings, including nacho cheese, buttermilk ranch, and sour cream and onion. There are “special” offerings, too, that go for $4 (“they’re bigger,” notes Josh) and also lean toward the creative. Consider the Lucky Devil: chocolate cake dipped in a chocolate glaze made with ghost chili (supposedly the world’s hottest pepper) then finished with cherry drizzle. Or the Surfer’s Breakfast: scrambled egg and Spam between two doughnuts, either glazed or plain. And the orange-stuffed one with guava and passion frosting that the Goldmans call POG. Coffee drinkers will be delighted to learn the increasingly prevalent Lighthouse Roasters is providing the beans.
On Tuesdays and Wednesdays Lucky Devil is at California and Edmonds; Fridays find it in Wallingford at 45th and Corliss. And on Mondays it’s hitting the Starbucks headquarters. Hours are 7–3, according to Josh.