The word from the Ethan Stowell camp: the chef’s latest, Roman trattoria Rione XIII opens right about...now on Capitol Hill. The restaurant shares the former Tilden space at 15th Avenue E and E Harrison Street with Heather Earnhardt’s forthcoming restaurant, the Wandering Goose. The space is somewhat reminiscent of his Staple and Fancy in Ballard—roll-up front windows, exposed brick, old wood and a large open kitchen.
The 38-seat restaurant takes its name from Rome’s 13th district and its great many restaurants; Stowell and his wife Angela have eaten their way around various parts of Italy, and the chef was particularly enamored with the crackery-thin Roman-style street pizza.
Chef Brandon Kirksey came over from Tavolàta to run the kitchen; while he will still be doing whole-animal cooking in his new gig, the popular Sunday night family-style dinners he put on at Tavolàta will stay put.
In addition to the pizza, Rione’s menu has other Roman-leaning dishes, like fried artichokes, an antipasto cart, and classic pasta dishes like carbonara, bucatini Amatriciana, and gnocchi, but Stowell says a major signature dish at the restaurant will be tonnarelli cacio e pepe, tossed tableside. A short list of entrees includes sweetbreads with artichoke, lemon and capers, veal saltimbocca, and oxtails cooked in tomato.
As of today, the restaurant is open weekdays for lunch (11:30-2:30) and seven nights a week from 5 to 11.