It's a subtle change. But an exciting one. Photo via Dot's Facebook page.

Walking down that northerly stretch of Fremont Avenue hasn’t been the same lately. Dot’s Delicatessen—a house of charcuterie and sandwiches—has been on hiatus since early February, its windows covered in brown paper. But it reopens tonight as Dot’s Charcuterie and Bistro

Owner Miles James has major meat cred, sure. But he also has an impressive culinary background, including sous chef at Cremant and opening Ethan Stowell’s first restaurant, Union. Last year James added a proper dinner service, but this makeover will help move Dot’s more firmly into restaurant territory. 

The sandwiches—the porchetta, the BLT, and one of the best frankfurters in all the land—will still be available during the day. So will the charcuterie. But at night the menu shifts to proper bistro fare, like cassoulet, coq au vin, and a massive cote de boeuf for two; the $75 price tag includes “sides until you stop us.” Here's an idea of what Dot's new menu looks like.

Oh, I should mention Anna Wallace, who happens to be particularly excited about the bacon-wrapped cod with crushed tomatoes and corona beans. The former bar manager at Walrus and the Carpenter is running the front of house here.  She oversees a list of French lagers, French ciders, and some cocktails that center on food-friendly aperitifs and digestifs. The once-humble wine list has been filled out with French vins that Wallace promises are "fantastic with the food and off the beaten path."

Wallace also makes a mean celery soda. While you won’t find it at Dot’s, her celery cordial shows up on the drinks list in the company of sparkling wine and citrus soda. 

If you’re coming to Dot’s, take heed: It’s open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday from 11 to 3. At 5 on those days, the restaurant reopens for dinner. Even though Dot's switches to restaurant mode in the evening, anyone seeking charcuterie or a cut of meat after 5 should call during the day, says Wallace, and the crew will wrap it up and have it waiting for you in the evening. "We're a neighborhood joint, after all."

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