Wherein we ask local wine notables to make our weeknight drinking decisions for us.

The choice white wine for an Indian Summer. Image via W. T. Vintners.

Cortney Lease, the company wine director for Wild Ginger and Triple Door, is in charge of the aging and proper climate for over 30,000 bottles from all over the world—but today she sought to recommend a glass perfectly suited for these last few balmy August days. She’s a Court of Masters advanced-level sommelier, with a bachelor's degree in chemistry.

So what do you think, Cortney, what should I drink tonight?

As the summer is winding down, a great transitional wine between the pounding heat of August and creeping chill of September is a glass of a unique varietal in Washington, a Grüner Veltliner. This year, my favorite is a W.T. Vintners 2012 Grüner Veltliner, hailing from the Underwood Mountain Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge—where it's ideal for white wine production. The long growing season has hot days and cool nights, which is tempered by the nearby Columbia River and the altitude of the Cascades. This Grüner Veltliner has a perfect balance of crisp, refreshing green fruit and citrus, and notable white pepper—a hallmark for this varietal, and an uplifting acidity with natural density. W.T. Vintners makes it easy to order that second glass.

The Price: $18

Find It: McCarthy & Schiering, Marché, Stoneburner