THERE IS A big difference between your average turkey and a quality, pasture-finished bird. I am firmly of the belief that turkeys should be split into breasts, which cook quickly and dry easily, and legs, which are juicy but take longer to cook, and each part should be cooked appropriately. I will be cooking this heirloom turkey dinner for my son Rhone’s first birthday this Thanksgiving.
This special holiday menu was provided courtesy Gabriel Claycamp, the chef at the erstwhile Seattle’s Culinary Communion cooking school.
MAKES: 8 servings
PREP TIME: 4 hours
Applewood-Smoked Turkey Breasts
Ingredients
2 heirloom turkey breasts, skin on
2 cups applewood chips, soaked according to directions
Brine
1 gallon water
1 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup dried tarragon
1 teaspoon black pepper
Directions
Combine all brine ingredients thoroughly in mixing bowl. Place turkey breasts in large nonmetallic dish and cover completely with brine. Let sit in refrigerator for 24 hours or overnight. Remove turkey from brine and pat dry.
Make a fire in a charcoal barbecue and let it burn until the coals are ashed over. Spread the coals in a thin layer for moderate heat and add the wet wood chips. When the chips begin to smoke, place turkey on the grill. Grill until done (internal temperature of 165º F), approximately 20 minutes, making sure to keep the grill covered but the vents open. Add more wood chips if necessary. Slice turkey thinly across the grain and serve.
Braised Turkey Legs with Sour Cherries and Hazelnuts ‘en Crepinette’
Ingredients
2 large turkey leg-and-thigh
combinations
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup flour, for dusting
1 onion, minced
1 carrot, minced
1 rib celery, minced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 quart turkey or chicken stock
2 cups red wine
1 teaspoon rosemary, minced
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Crepinette
1/4 cup toasted, skinned hazelnuts
1/4 cup dried cherries
1 tablespoon stone-ground mustard
16
large leaves of chard or escarole,
ribs trimmed but leaf left whole
Directions
Season turkey liberally with salt and pepper and dredge in flour, shaking off the excess. Heat a heavy-bottomed pan large enough to accommodate all of the ingredients over medium heat. Add butter and brown turkey on all sides, then set aside. Over medium high heat in the same pan, sauté carrots, onions, garlic, and celery. When deeply caramelized add the tomato paste. Let cook, stirring often, until a rusty brown color develops. Deglaze with wine, making sure to scrape up the brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Add stock and chopped rosemary. Bring liquid to a boil and season well with salt and pepper.
