Vines and Fine Wines
EXPLORE LAKE CHELAN, WASHINGTON’S HOT NEW AVA
Distance from downtown Seattle: 180 miles; 3 hours, 15 minutes
Back in 1998, independent apple grower Steve Kludt was up to his sun leathered elbows in debt and about to lose his sloping orchard overlooking Lake Chelan. Kludt, an energetic baby boomer partial to silky golf shirts and lace-up comfort shoes, started thinking back to a pioneering viticulturist he’d met years earlier who had explained to him that his apple fields would be ideal for growing grapes. In a Hail Mary move, Kludt pulled up his trees and planted vines and, in 2001, he bottled the region’s first wine under the name Lake Chelan Winery. Today more than a dozen wineries dot the 55-mile-long lake, with over 260 acres of farmland devoted to wine grapes—enough to convince the federal government, in April 2009, that Chelan merited status as an independent AVA (American Viticultural Area). If you plan to visit several in a day, consider hiring a limo. Harvest season is a time for celebration at Lake Chelan, and there is no shame in leaving the driving to someone else (Lakeside Limousine Tours, chelanlimo.com).
SIP
Housed in a terra-cotta-roofed replica of a Mediterranean villa, complete with a fountain in front and twin wrought-iron lanterns flanking the entrance, Benson Vineyards Estate Winery (754 Winesap Ave, Manson, 509-687-0313; bensonvineyards.com) is the place to begin a Chelan tasting tour. After you sip through the current releases, linger on the terrace to take in the long rows of vines leading down the hillside to the glistening glacier-fed lake.
Just a short drive down winding Winesap Avenue is Lake Chelan Winery (3519 State Route 150, Chelan, 509-687-9463; lakechelanwinery.com) where Steve Kludt gives guests a great little tour, weaving a rich and folksy narrative of Chelan as he guides you through field and factory.
Heading back toward town, stop at Vin Du Lac Winery (105 State Route 150, Chelan, 866-455-9463; vindulac.com) for an afternoon snack—the buttery yellow bistro there charms via platters of cheese and charcuterie, fresh salads, crepes, and panini, all designed to be washed down with the house’s gentle whites and meticulously blended reds.
Along the southern side of the lake Nefarious Cellars (495 S Lakeshore Rd, Chelan, 509-682-9505; nefariouscellars.com), run by young winemaking couple Dean and Heather Neff, contrasts notably with the country-kitsch aesthetic of the older wineries. Here customers leave with chilled whites (the aromatic viognier is a winner) and hunks of Beecher’s Flagship instead of wine cozies and custom-labeled jars of chutney.
STAY
The hospitality industry is still catching up with Chelan’s wine tourist trade, but the best bet in town is Campbell’s Resort (104 W Woodin Ave, Chelan, 800-553-8225; campbellsresort.com), boasting a private lakefront beach (complete with a piña colada station where the bartender bops around to Bob Marley), clean, comfortable rooms, and an in-house spa.
EAT
Cross the resort parking lot to the Veranda Bistro and Bar, where a breakfast of heaping scrambles and honey-laced bacon clear up any cloudiness caused from yesterday’s sipfest. In town, The Vogue Liquid Lounge (117 E Woodin Ave, Chelan, 509-888-5282; thevoguelounge.com) is the spot for cappuccino or a fresh sandwich and a belt of local wine. Serving up a fancier feast, Winemaker’s Grill at Wapato Point Cellars (200 Quetilquasoon Rd, Manson, 509-687-4000; wapatopointcellars.com) will remind Seattleites, not unpleasantly, of a time when fine dining meant a hunk of rib-eye and an oversize chalice of some densely concentrated merlot.
Published: September 2009
I’m a big fan of Pondera Winery, and their wines. I’d like to note that not only are they a family winery that puts the utmost care and detail into the making of their wines, they also donate a portion of the sales of their Rally Red syrah to charity.
This is a great mention about the Frog, Willows Lodge and Hotel 1000 (side of page). Dont forget to visit Fireside Cellars (wine bar) in Willows Lodge when in Woodin ville..good happy hour food. Though not mentioned I would check out www.woodinvillewinecountry.com/ for all of the other great wineries, like my friends at Stevens Winery, Betz, Des Voigne Cellars and many others.
Great article and thanks for all the suggestions. Have you guys checked out the Columbia Gorge yet? The wineries are kind of spread out, but it’s beautiful and they make great wine. Plus, for all the beer lovers out there, Full Sail is just down the street!
Thanks for the great article about our lovely island. Don’t forget Gordon’s on Blueberry Hill, a delightful and delicious gourmet restaurant just outside of Freeland. The food is incredible and the view of Holmes Harbor is stunning.
i am surprised that you would not mention the Warehouse District in Woodinville. Within 1 mile there are 33 wineries and tasting rooms. Some of the best wineries in the state, if not the world, are in this area. Park your car and walk to 25+ wineries. Most are open on Saturday, less on Sunday, and fewer on Friday, but always enough to have a good tasting time. Sign up for e-mails at www.woodinvillewinecountry.com for releases, events, functions, etc.
That’s a good point, Gary. Would have been smart to mention the Warehouse District by name. We’ll have to do something on it in the future. Thanks for the info, do you have favorite must-visit wineries there?