BALLARD SHOWDOWN
VERACI PIZZA vs. DELANCEY
Ballard is bloated with pizzerias—17-plus dot the North Seattle hood, like so many pepperonis atop a pie. But it’s Veraci ’s portable oven that changed the game. The shared enterprise of Marshall Jett, Errin Byrd, and Krista Elledge—one couple, now divorced, and a sister—was just a wood-burning DIY dome six years ago. Jett and Byrd would hitch the stove to a trailer each Saturday at the Ballard Farmers Market, offering slim slices accessorized with sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, red onions, and chevre. They made it for fun, for extra money, and to feed Seattleites a healthier, tastier ’za.
A catering company emerged, and four years later came a permanent pizzeria on Market Street. From the start, Veraci’s founders decried the typical overly cheesed pie, anchored by a fat carbo-bomb of a crust and buried in toppings. Jett rolled Veraci’s wispy crust by hand so it was barely there, almost brittle, its outer edges hollow. He administered veggies, meats, and cheeses with a light hand so that his customers could slow down, eat six or seven slices, then leave the table feeling “wonderful, like they just ate some sushi.”
Then, last summer, came Delancey. Darling Delancey. The steamy-windowed storefront just a mile and change north of Veraci was the precious progeny of Brandon Pettit and Molly Wizenberg, an oh-so-cute couple whose courtship, marriage, and foray into the restaurant biz was well documented on Wizenberg’s world-famous, food-fixated blog Orangette. Its opening marked Seattle’s first artisan pizzeria of the New York style, where pizza makers use coal-burning ovens to churn out individually sized pies. But there’s no coal at Delancey, just a wood-burning flame box whose interior temp peaks at 900 degrees. “A wood-fired oven makes the pizza look and smell better, and makes bubbles in the crust,” explains Pettit. “I like bubbles.”
That bubbly crust begins life as organic, local flour from Shepherd’s Grain, the pepperoni is supplied by Zoe’s Meats, and the pork-fennel sausage made in house. Delancey’s bright, slightly sweet tomato sauce goes into the oven uncooked on top of a disk of dough that is blasted from below while whirling, radiant heat scorches its edges with tongue-coating char. This crispy edge is spongy on the inside, and best showcased on the Brooklyn pie, made with aged mozzarella, fresh mozzarella, and Grana Padano. The result is sweet and salty, earthily aged but fecund with freshness, burnt then doughy.
The hour-plus wait is as much a testament to Orangette’s fame as to its food: Most Delancey guests silently hope to catch a swing of the lady blogger’s apricot-hued ponytail. Surprising, then, that this aware crew often finds itself, well into that first slice of the Brooklyn, deep in the clutches of a forget-you’re-in-public, sauce-splattering pizzagasm.
BOTTOM LINE: The only pizzeria in Ballard firing up a truly ecstasy-inducing pizza is Delancey. But if the wait gets too long, find healthy, cracker-crusted delights down the street at Veraci.
Published: March 2010
I love pizza. That being said I am surprised by some of the pairings in this article and even more surprised by their bottom lines. Most are juxtaposed with common bonds, but a few run on parallels that share only one common denominator—pizza.
You really have to compare pizza by the crust. Thin vs Thin, Thick vs Thick, Deep Dish vs Deep Dish etc. True Pizza lovers will agree that pizza is defined by its crust. You can’t just compare apples to oranges and call it a competition.
Tutta Bella vs Via Tribunali vs Pulcinella makes marginal sense. And even less sense is Talarico’s Pizzeria and Northlake Pizza Tavern. Northlake prides themselves on the over-topped thicker crusted pies that the college youth appreciate while Talarico’s excels in their perfection of the thin and chewy east coast style pie that highlights the sweet sauce and the quality toppings.
All things size related should remain in the valentines day issue. However, it would be kinda fun to happen upon a field of grazing dough-mammals…
Okay so I’ve eaten at Topolinos a few times and have always had a good pie. I’m from Chicago where the really good pizza is so I’m adjusting to this thin crust/thin pie thingy. That being said the service has always been good and the pies are ready to eat quickly. I gues I might have to trip over to the city to compare ANYPP. More to come…..
I admit I’m fairly new to the area and have only been to a small fraction of these great places listed, but I am in LOVE with Palermo’s Pizza, I think it’s the best pizza I’ve found yet in the city.
What I’d really like to see on the New York pizza challenge is a true test comparing one cheese pizza to another. If the contenders can’t get the main event right, that is crust, cheese and sauce, what’s the point? And contrary to what some people might say, it’s not just about the crust. You’ve got to get the cheese blend and sauce right too. As far as I can tell, Seattle still is jonesing for the real deal.
I am a big pizza fan… also have lived in the Burien area most of my life. Although I was disappointed to see Filiberto’s original brick building close, I cannot say enough good things about their new location. Great food, good people, fantastic atmosphere; What more do you need? Their pizza is hands down the best I’ve had. Thank you for hi-lighting this local treasure.
I love pizza. I saw this article in the QFC last night and was very excited to read it. But I am not sure about the pairings. Where is Bambinos? Where is Piecoras? Seems like they left some of the better pizzerias out.
this is awsome!!!! give pizza the respect it deserves! i want to see a pairing of Good Times Pizza in Oak Harbor (a small town on Whidbey Island) against one of the bigger city pizza shops! I think Good Times is the best up north i would like to see how they compare to the others.
I would have liked to see Kylie’s chicago style pizza VS Delfino’s. According to my friends from Chicago, these are the top two chicago pizza joints.
Olympic Pizza is the worst Pizza I’ve ever had. Ever. I’ve had better Pillsbury crust pizzas. I can’t believe they were considered for this list in anything but a “Best of the Worst” category and they wouldn’t even win that.
I haven’t eaten at Tutta Bella before, but Via Tribunali has it down. It reminds me of eating pizza in Italy and it tastes like the pizza I have eaten in Italy.
May I offer a new category…Working-class Pizza or maybe Pizza for the People?Check out Proletariat Pizza.
Sorry, by including Olympic Pizza you discredit the entire article. You must be related to the owners. I landed here from NYC some years ago full of hope and awe for this beautiful city. Olympic was the first pizza I tasted in Seattle and I nearly cried. I wasn’t sure I would make it if this was what the city called pizza.
Luckily, things have changed, people have figured out that covering up bad crust with heaps of toppings, rubbery cheese, and an undercooked, over spiced sauce was no way to sling pies.
I have a favorite that I won’t mention because the owner, in true Italian fashion, doesn’t want more business than he and his family can handle. Oh AND, I’m a selfish SOB.
As for Chicago style…. it’s great!… it’s not pizza, but it’s great…. if you were going to do a comparison of that style, pair it with bread bowls, and other soupy stuff.
Hey, folks. Just wanted to point out we are referring to Olympia Pizza, not Olympic Pizza. It’s also important to note Olympia’s atop Queen Anne is under different ownership than other Olympia Pizza and Pastas in Seattle.
Check out Stacias Pizza. They have great food but I have never read any write ups about them.
Zeek’s over Pagliacci?! Only if you like bland crust and hate sauce, cheese, and toppings.
Has anyone tried Rudy’s in Bellingham? A reader was telling me about it yesterday … I feel like I’m always ready for an excuse to go to Bellingham, and I think Rudy’s might be it.
I can not understand how Delfino’s was completely missed. Especially since you make a point of stating that there are no Chicago style pizzarias in town.
I have been driving from the Eastside to the U District for YEARS!
I really wish they would open one on the Eastside.
So I like many of the readers above, was very excited to see this edition on sale while at the grocery checkout. I was even more excited when I saw that the guys at ‘zaw were being reviewed. I fell in love with this place at the Wallingford farmer’s market last summer, and have been a weekly visitor to their Ballard store since. After reading the review however, I’m not sure the writer even bothered to visit the store. Everyone’s entitled to an opinion, but there were so many factual errors in this piece I wanted to scream! Expensive? After reading the review I pulled a stack of pizza menus from my kitchen drawer and ran a quick comparison. ’zaw’s large pizzas are priced lower than any other one I can find! And their toppings are soooo much better! And their wine is cheaper than TJs! And healthful? Does the fact I actually don’t feel awful after eating it make it healthful? Seems like the writers just wanted to force fit it into a category. And the pizza mentioned in the article doesn’t even come with herbs, although several on the menu do, and are listed as so. I could keep going, but you get the point. Very disappointing, lazy journalism guys!
There was a “mistake” about All Purpose Pizza too – -Kids love the pizza. We have met more adults that don’t really like the sourdough/red wine sauce combo than kids, but even those are few and far between. Plus, there are other sauces not mentioned (pesto and garlic olive oil) as options for everyone.
Overall, I am thrilled someone finally categorized pizza in Seattle! Not all pizza is the same and there are plenty of people who fall into different camps. When people eat Neapolitan pizza (Tutta Bella, Via Trib. etc) then go to an Olympia Pizza for a slice they are not getting the same fare and can’t really compare the two.
I think and apples to apples comparison of pie in our fair city is a benefit for everyone! In the end, what I have found after 4+ years in business is that people tend to stick with one place they like and compare that once place to all others. And, like the article states right off – (most) pizza is like sex, even when it’s bad, it’s good.
I am a huge fan of ‘zaw and completely disagree with ’cardboard’ crust – the crisp crust is one of my favorite things about ‘zaw. And the price is better than most so the comment about it being a steep price tag is just wrong! I can get a large pizza, large salad and bottle of wine (or 6 pack of beer/pop) for $33 (and they deliver beer and wine too I might add). ’zaw is the best thing that’s happenned to pizza in Seattle!
‘zaw is the best! Not only does the pizza meet and exceed the quality, price, and taste I expect from a great pizza, the business concept and model is innovative, modern, completely accommodating, and new. I don’t know too many neighborhoods in this world that could have a pizza delivered with wine and/or a bottle of wine. How cool is that?? The folks at ’zaw are committed to their consumers, and totally get it- The pizza tastes great!! Salads too! All ingredients are FRESH! Like their approach to doing business here. Thanks ’zaw for always performing! Seattle is so fortunate to have you!
Pepperoni is the best!
This is a great article and it is great to see a list of the out of the way places in Seattle to find your choice of pizza. But, I feel that there is one that you missed— Atlantic Street Pizza. They used to be in the U-Dist, but now have a place downtown on 3rd. They used to have a pizza called the “Basher” made with thick chunks of pepperoni that made the pizza at Pagliacci’s seem puny, and their “Atlantic Street Special” blows everything else away. I enjoyed their pies long ago while in school and even though I live in the bigger metropolis of Puyallup now, we still find time to fill our cravings for some of the best pizza around by making the trek to Seattle. The owner Harry is one of the greatest characters around and he still remembers us when we come strolling in. Either that or he is a great actor! Check them out!
Good idea on the article. I just think there were too many misses, some obvious bias, and I wish they had done a bit more justice to a few places. I agree with some of the other comments posted about numerous errors in the article. Calling out Via Trib’s crust as a wet black well totally does not capture their crust – it is a wonderful place to dine and fantastic pizza. Undercooked? Perhaps the article, but not the pizza. I couldn’t help but notice that Zeek’s and Tutta Bella advertised in the issue and they both got the highest praise – coincidence? Regarding Zaw, DList magazine got it right this month, Seattle Metropolitan missed by a mile. I’m a huge fan of Zaw and it is hard to believe the reviewer actually tried their pizza, or they were biased before they started. They mention the only pizza on Zaw’s menu that doesn’t have fresh herbs and then they call them out for not having fresh herbs? They talk about price for Zaw, but they must not have compared them to the other places?? as Zaw is actually less expensive by quite a bit than the others???. And then they talk about Flying Squirrel lacking moisture, wow! I also felt sad for the owner of All-Purpose having to justify that kids actually like their pizza. Articles like this are great, but more care should have been involved in the article writing. My bottom line on this smackdown, some great pizzas to be had in Seattle, but the article came off half-baked. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a few apologies written for a few of the mistakes.
Um, you guys do realize there are two other Olympia Pizza locations in Seattle, don’t you? One’s on 15th in Capitol Hill and the other’s in Wallingford on 45th near Stone Way. Same pizza.
Hi Steven. See the note above about Olympia Pizza. The one we are referring to atop Queen Anne is under different ownership.
Hi Margaret—totally respect that you disagree with our choices and thanks for weighing in. I can assure you though that advertising had nothing to do with the choice for best Neapolitan pizza—or any choice in this piece.
Every single pizzeria in this article was visited by a Seattle Met contributor, even places where we have been many times before.
Hope you continue to enjoy Via Trib, there is a lot to love.
Hi Jess. I must say that I am impressed that you are taking the time to respond to these posts. I also completely respect a difference of opinion, that is what makes articles such as this fun. However, my main concerns are not about opinion, as everyone knows that you could take 6 other reviewers and come up with very different conclusions. If there was no bias, then my primary concerns are in the carelessness of presenting potentially damaging comments too loosely and actual inaccuracies due to just not doing the legwork. Presenting Via Tribs crust as undercooked or wet black wells is an example of damaging. I believe you could survey 100 people walking out the doors of that establishment and get very few of those comments. Not discussing price in the article except in the case of Zaw, and singling them out as expensive, is just sloppy and inaccurate. A quick survey of Margerita pizzas which everyone seems to carry, has a 15" at Zaw less than the same style as a 13" at Pagliacci, a 12" at Zeeks, a 12" at Olympia and over $5 less than the same size as Pizza Pi. Considering the organic flour and local sources from Zaw, something I personally think is worthy, insinuating that they are expensive seems poorly researched and plain inaccurate. Let alone the herb issue which is actually something they seem to be known for, not lacking. If responding to these posts, why has no one responded to the owner of All-Purpose who felt it necessary to post because of a potentially damaging statement that their pizza is not kid friendly? Did you have kids on your panel? Congratulations on the concept for the article, keep your opinions rolling, but please show some care in the actual writing. Your readers deserve accuracy if you present opinion, they can get sloppy reviews from plenty of other sources.
We’re delighted to see that our pizza cover started just the kind of rough-and-tumble conversation we were expecting! A few assurances from the critic in charge: Every pizzeria was thoroughly reviewed by a staffer. Every opinion was echoed by trusted informants. Every comment was included in the context of that pizzeria’s own aims. If we called a crust bland, you can be assured that several voices agreed with that estimation. If we declared something kid-unfriendly, know that the term “bleccccchy!” came up more than once. As in all our restaurant reviews—and indeed all of our coverage—we at Seattle Met take great pride in thorough reporting and fearless appraisals. When those appraisals start up a lively conversation, so much the better. Keep those cards ‘n’ letters comin’!
I heard Kathryn Robinson on KIROfm Saturday afternoon chatting with fellow food elitist Tom Douglas, who along with Thierry R. from Rover’s have an enjoyable but rather precious food show there every week from 4-7 p.m. I didn’t care for the condescending, snobbish way she dismissed Piecora’s as having any claim to be on her pizzeria list in the article. I’m going to try Piecora’s (was in there once for a look around and it smelled great) and then try the pizza joints that made the list, and see what i think. If it turns out i would put Piecora’s on the list, as a replacement for one or several of Robinson’s more artsy fartsy pizzerias on the list, and that 95% of the city do the same, then it seems that a list like this is in danger of being something fairly irrelevant to the general public, like a Paris runway show of wacky exotic clothes that 95% of women would never wear…..
I have to agree with Kathryn’s assessment of Piecora’s. My pizza there has been completely lackluster.
I second the working class pizza.. Proletariat is by far the best pizza I’ve had in the Seattle area.
You lost me at Zeeks. Literally, I stopped reading the pizza smackdown once it was established that we obviously have different pizza tastes. I don’t want a recommendation from anyone who would recommend Zeeks over Dominos, let alone over Pagliacci!
Wow, my many many experiences are the exact opposite of yours at Tutta Bella and Tribunali…
Tutta Bella, outside of the “kid friendly” mayhem, has gone so far downhill since they dropped all that money to open their last few spots. Your hyperbole shocked me, and made me stop reading this farce altogether.
I am a total pizza snob (and lover) and I am not very satisfied with Seattle pizza. Having said that some of what I say here might make sense. First- I AM SICK OF NEOPOLITAN STYLE PIZZA! Has anyone travelled through Italy and had the pizza? It is amazing everywhere you go except Naples! Yuck. The lack of toppings, chewy tasteless crust, what a bore. And it costs way too much. It isn’t pizza, it is (very) flat bread. Seattle- you have been conned by the faux-Naples pizza mafia and you are making them rich.
The best NY style pizza I’ve had, outside of NYC, is in Portland at Escape from New York Pizza, nothing comes close in Seattle. And I have to mention Brooklyn Pizza but it is in Tucson!
Now the shocking part- the best cheap slices in Seattle award goes to Pudge Brothers on 45th just west of I-5. Has anyone even heard of it? Amazing crust and sauce with NY style toppings, now that is pizza! And a second place finish to Hot Mama’s on Pine. For the fancy stuff I like Serious Pie. Cheers!
Tutta Bella is soggy pizza, not Via Tribunali. I’m married to a Neapolitan and traveled Italy. The best pizza, the best food is pretty much in Southern Italy. Via Tribunali is the most authentic pizza I’ve had outside of Italia.
Tutta Bella, from the atmosphere POV, is very noisy experience. The sound bounces everywhere and it’s not pleasant.
A New York Pizza Place is exactly that. Having grown up on Long Island, I frequented a neighborhood “dive” spot as a teen and before becoming a regular at ANYPP, I found nothing close to comparable in Seattle. Fresh ingredients, homemade dough, “everyone knows your name-Cheers” kind of service and nothing less than reliable time and time again. To me it’s a perfect marriage of New York Style and Seattle fresh. So if you pride yourself on knowing the secret spot, that understated, neighborhood, hidden gem, you should definitely check this place out. Tell Doug we say hi!
A New York Pizza Place is just as the last person stated: “secret spot, that understated, neighborhood, hidden gem.” I have never been to New York so I can’t say that it is New York style, but it is good.
My wife and I have been together for 10 years and we have gone out for “Pizza Night” every Thursday. When we lived in AZ. we had our favorite spot that started the tradition. We moved to WA. in 2006 and tried a few places but couldn’t find a good spot for our traditional dinner, until we went to ANYPP. The pie is excellent! I am usually a pepperoni only guy but one slice of “The Godfather” has widened my options. The service is excellent, you are greeted as a friend and neighbor. We had a party with some friends a few years ago and now they drive from all over the city to eat dinner.
I am not sure why the review was so bad, I was shocked to read what they said! When I saw the cover, I picked it up and flipped through to see if they were even considered because I knew ANYPP is the best in town. I figured they wouldn’t review it because its such a small, cozy spot. But they did, and they got it wrong! I highly recommend this place as a pizza snob, you won’t be dissapointed.
A New York Pizza Place – one word – awesome. The pizza is amazing and the staff are great. I definitely recommend checking this place out (not far from Northgate Mall). Everytime I get a craving for a pizza, caeser salad, and a beer, this is the first spot that comes to my mind!
Well I will let everyone know that whoever can’t make it out to Kirkland for a pizza, they should try to make it out to their other location which is in south Everett on 128th and 4th or something you can google it, but thus joint serves some awesome pizza, delicious, everyone that is a pizza freak should try it out, clean restaurant good service and awesome pizza.
Oh yeah the name if the pizza joint would help, I was talking about Acropolis Pizza & Pasta in south Everett lynnwood mill creek area.
Shout out to Stellar Pizza in Georgetown :)
My husband and I were recently considering a move back to Denver. A BIG deciding factor in our eventual choice to remain in downtown Ballard was ‘zaw! Yes, a big capital L loser that makes us I know. But they deliver really really tasty pizza and wine to our door at least once a week. Need I say more? I don’t get the expensive comments above either. My weekly bill for pizza, wine and tip is right around $30.
Okay, let’s just clear something up—anyone from the East Coast knows New Jersey has the best pizza, not New York (perpetuated myth). Have tried most of the places on this list during the “Great Pizza Caper” this article engendered and have to agree with the worn-out Neapolitan feedback—get over it already, Seattle! No big surprise but Pagliacci has the best pizza so far, am trying Flying Squirrel tonight, and will definitely try A NY Pizza Palce based on the recommendations here ( but will cahnge it to NJ in my mind).
Try out Acropolis Pizza & Pasta in Kirkland! Family owned and great authentic Greek pizza.
Acropolis pizza & pasta baby all the way, they have 2 locations, either one is awesome same family…..
What about Chicago style pizzas? I’ve yet to find a SINGLE worthwhile place in Seattle. While Seattle may be getting better for the PEMCO’s Confused East Coast Transplant, Chicagoans are left eating the rot-gut they call pizza. I’ve nearly given up. Any hidden gems that I should know about?