Best Restaurants 2006
Best Chef-Inspired Restaurants
Crush
2319 E Madison St, Madison Valley| 206-302-7874
www.crushonmadison.com
Looking deeply superficial in its white–on–white LA decor, Crush is a serious kitchen masquerading as a see–and–be scene. Thank young owner–chef Jason Wilson, whose commitment to seasonal and sustainable ingredients, deft marriages of comfort–textures with contemporary treatments, and ability to keep the experience affordable together create one of the most satisfying restaurant experiences in town.
Order up! Braised short ribs with truffle oil; housemade chocolates with fillings such as Earl Grey tea or spearmint
Prime time Chef Wilson’s just entering his, having snagged a prestigious berth on this year’s Food & Wine’s list of the Best New Chefs in America.
Pssssst Chef Wilson and his wife Nicole haven’t given up their catering sideline, which they pursue off–site at a spacious South Lake Union warehouse in addition to gigs in private locations.
But… Fashion can trump function here, as more than one diner has found out by trying to balance her knife across her curvaceous bread plate—and buttering her lap instead.
Boat Street Café
3131 Western Ave, Ste 301, Belltown| 206-632-4602 www.boatstreetcafe.com
Beneath the whitewashed rafters of this airy Belltown chamber Renée Erickson unfurls her loving homage to the foods and moods of southern France. Every detail sketches the most Provençal of scenes: here a sardine plate, musky with beets and softly moistened greens; there a wax–dripped Grenache bottle for a candlestick; there a roasted poussin draped in hard cider cream over apples and onions. Erickson’s flavors are simple and distilled; her skill, both as flawless culinary craftsman and famously nice manager of people, lend the Boat Street an irresistible exuberance.
Order up! Whatever savory flan she’s making that day; amaretto bread pudding
Prime time Now that the SAM Sculpture Park and about 30,000 new condo units have rendered this neighborhood the epicenter of Seattle—all the time is prime at Boat Street.
Pssssst Susan Kaplan, who—as the original Boat Street owner—was Erickson’s first mentor, as well as the proprietor of the late, great Sophie’s Donuts, runs the lunch program in the adjoining Boat Street Kitchen.
But… You’re on your own for parking.
