Best Restaurants 2006
Best Classic Restaurants
Rover’s
2808 E Madison St, Madison Valley| 206-325-7442 www.rovers–seattle.com
Thierry Rautureau’s French cuisine is virtually flawless, his house restaurant special–occasion elegant, and his servers among the most polished in town. So how Rover’s manages unpretentiousness on top of it is one of the finer mysteries of Seattle’s food cosmos. Perhaps it’s because the chef himself, every inch the affable host, meets and greets nightly.
Order up! Unlike other joints with prix–fixe menus, Rover’s is easygoing enough to let diners order à la carte if they’re on a budget. We say break the bank and go the whole eight–course nine–yards, particularly if one of them is his signature scrambled egg with crème fraîche and caviar.
Prime time Evening celebrations are Rover’s raison d’être, which may be why so few know that it’s also open for lunch on Fridays.
Pssssst Vegetarians resigned to French food avoidance can finally enjoy it at Rover’s, in five inspired courses.
But… Purists may snort that Rautureau went Hollywood with his “Chef–in–the–Hat” schtick. Our mouth’s too full of foie gras to comment.
Café Juanita
9702 NE 120th Pl, Kirkland| 425-823-1505 www.cafejuanita.com
From the artfully composed plate of varietal breads at the top of the meal to the pastry chef’s gratis parting confection, the finest destination on the Eastside remains a steady stunner of a showcase for owner–chef Holly Smith’s gifts. She’s a chef of the first order, interpreting the cuisine of Northern Italy through the bounty of our own local harvests, from perfect local beets and heirloom tomatoes to Oregon lamb and local Wagyu beef. But she also knows a thing or 10 about the gracious warmth it takes to succeed in the hospitality business.
Order up! Grilled octopus with fennel, chickpeas, and green sauce; rabbit braised in Arneis with Ligurian chickpea crepe, pancetta, and porcini
Prime time Whatever the occasion—from quiet anniversaries to raucous reunions—celebration dinners are always successful here because you are in the hands of the finest service staff in the region.
Pssssst Always a bridesmaid but never a bride when it comes to the prestigious James Beard awards, the twice–nominated Smith has been asked to cook at the James Beard House this spring.
But… Like many of us, the grande dame is showing her age from the exterior. Time for a makeover?
Canlis
2576 Aurora Ave N, Queen Anne
| 206-283-3313 www.canlis.com
It doesn’t get more classic in Seattle than the third–generation family–owned dinner house grandly surveying the sweep of Lake Union. Every old–school component is in place: Striking midcentury architecture, creamy split–level design, the city’s swankiest piano bar, unassailable service, exalted surf ’n’ turf, lots of Big Cheese regulars who “personally know” Chris Canlis, a recommended dress policy, an award–winning sommelier and matching wine collection (which recently snagged Wine Spectator’s rare highest honor, the Grand Award, for the 10th year running)—and, oh…that view.
*Order up!* Original Canlis Salad; steak tartare
Prime time Want 7:30pm Saturday? Book about four weeks in advance.
Pssssst The only way to drop in without a reservation is to eat in the bar.
But… We’re not complaining, but that famous Canlis valet trick of bringing your car around without a claim check? How do they do that?
