Jeffrey Dorgan
WINE
DIRECTOR, WILLOWS LODGE AND BARKING FROG
With a self-deprecating humor that’s as sharp as his palate, Jeffrey Dorgan is the antithesis of the so-called wine snob. In 2006 he opened Smash Wine Bar and Bistro in Wallingford but has since sold his share and now runs the wine program at the Willows Lodge and Barking Frog. Dorgan was named 2009 Sommelier of the Year by the Washington Wine Commission. It couldn’t have happened to a nicer guy.


WHITE
2008 Airfield Estates Unoaked Chardonnay, $12

Yakima Valley, Washington
This is a chardonnay in its truest form, without the manipulation of oak. It is light bodied with great acids, and has flavors of lemon and grapefruit plus a little peach on the finish.

2008 Efesté Feral, $18
Columbia Valley, Washington
Fermented with native yeasts in neutral oak barrels, Efesté’s sauvignon blanc is very Old World in style with lots of minerality and notes of flint and grapefruit.

2008 Syncline Grüner Veltliner, $20
Columbia Gorge, Washington
This unusual white varietal from the cool climate of the Underwood Mountain Vineyards in the Columbia Gorge has flavors of lemon, pineapple, honeydew melon, and white pepper, and brilliant acids.

2008 Stevens Winery Divio Viognier, $21
Yakima Valley, Washington
From the Dineen Vineyard in the town of Zillah, Stevens’s viognier is lower in alcohol than most with no residual sugar. It tastes of dried apricot and has a honeyed nose.

ROSÉ
2008 Wineglass Cellars Fran’s Wine Sangiovese Rosé, $12
Yakima Valley, Washington
Fran’s is a light, clean sipping rosé at an excellent value. It has cherry notes and a little spice, with the great acids typical to the varietal.

RED
2007 Des Voigne Cellars San Remo Sangiovese, $26

Red Mountain, Washington
I love sangiovese from Washington and this one, from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, in particular. With notes of red cherries, strawberries, and spices, it pairs with lots of different foods but is equally great on its own.

2006 Alexandria Nicole Cabernet Sauvignon Alderdale, $32
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington
You would never know this wine from the Destiny Ridge Vineyards in Horse Heaven Hills was aged for 20 months in 90 percent new French oak, because its structure, depth, and fruit stand up so well. With dark fruit, ripe berries, rosemary, vanilla, cigar box, and spice, it is a very complex wine for the price.

2006 DeLille Cellars Doyenne Aix, $34
Red Mountain, Washington
A rich, velvety, and well-structured syrah–cabernet sauvignon blend that boasts bright loganberry and orange blossom notes.

2005 Page Cellars Preface Cabernet Sauvignon, $37
Red Mountain, Washington
From the E&E Shaw vineyard, it’s a soft, elegant, complex blend with refined tannins and flavors of blackberry and spice.

Next: April Pogue, general manager, Grand Cru