Wear What When

Classic Gifts VI: Watch It

Think about gifts that keep on giving, for generations, at the brand new Omega shop in the Fairmont Olympic.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Dec 17, 2010 at 08:50AM 0 Comments

Photo: Omega Watches

Time will tell: Watches, like this Omega Seamaster, are tomorrow’s heirlooms.

My husband has an Omega watch that belonged to his grandfather. He keeps the watch in its original red box, which is tucked into a larger box, which is kept inside an antique sideboard. He wears it to weddings and special dinners out — basically whenever he wears a suit. It’s not that the watch is particularly delicate, or even that it’s worth a lot of money, but more that his grandfather took such great care of it that to treat it casually would be disrespectful.

It’s as if he didn’t just inherit the watch, he inherited reverence and pride for it as well.

Remember home decor guru Jonathan Adler’s advice about only buying items that you’ll want to hand down to your grandchildren? It’s an idea that previous generations didn’t necessarily need reminders about, but somehow we’ve lost sight of it a little. Yet at the brand new Omega shop inside the Fairmont Olympic (it fills the space left vacant by Jeri Rice), you almost can’t help but think who might wear this austere Seamaster or that diamond-studded Constellation after you’re gone.

After the shop’s recent grand opening party, a private dinner was given at Tulio nearby, and I had the chance to speak with Omega president Stephen Urquhart who acknowledged that ‘function is hardly a concern anymore.’ We don’t buy watches because we’re concerned about knowing what time it is. We buy them – we give them, Urquhart says — and particularly Omegas, the timepiece of James Bond, the first watch on the moon, the official chronograph of the Olympics — ‘for the dream;’ to ‘own a legacy.’

And, I would add, the opportunity to pass the legacy on and essentially live forever.

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Tags: Accessories, Seattle Menswear, Retail News, Classic Gifts 2010

Classic Gifts III: Use Your Head

Keep their ears warm and foster worldwide community for about 30 bucks.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Dec 14, 2010 at 07:00AM 1 Comments

Photo: Krochet Kids

Put this on someone’s head and make the world a better place.

Once upon a time, a guy named Kohl Crecelius learned to crochet. This was, you know, not totally bizarre or anything, but also not completely common. Crecelius was a UW student, and a snowboarder. Snowboarding and needlecraft are only rarely found in the same sentence. Perhaps because he was already more than halfway to being an interesting story, Crecelius actually became an interesting story by turning his hobby into a fair-trade business that helps African women help themselves. The Seattle native founded Krochet Kids and now, more than 100 women get together in Uganda every day to make their lives better through community and work. And college kids from all over the country do battle to intern and/or work for the brand.

The products of that labor make really special and exceedingly practical gifts. The models known as Betty and The Helm are fresh for the holidays — in fact, a little retailer called Nordstrom just hosted a trunk show for them. Sorry we missed it.

You know the mantra, right? Don’t overthink this. Our heads get cold around here. These hats — and the native Seattleite who dreamt them — make the world a better place.

And, you can shop for them online quite easily via the Krochet Kids site. Alternately, you may purchase them at area Nordstrom stores and at Zebra Club.

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Tags: Seattle Menswear, Sustainable Such and Such, Classic Gifts 2010

Slideshow: Punctuation by Tarboo

Small-batch men’s shirting, made in Seattle, built to last.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Dec 09, 2010 at 08:00AM 0 Comments

Photo: This image courtesy Punctuation

Slideshow: Inside Punctuation’s shop-in-shop with Maikoiyo Alley-Barnes and Matt Noren

View Slideshow » Photo: This image courtesy Punctuation

Slideshow: Inside Punctuation’s shop-in-shop with Maikoiyo Alley-Barnes and Matt Noren

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Punctuation by Tarboo shirts are cut and sewn in classic silhouettes, in classic plaids and solids. You’ll find small, smart, subtle details — bias fabric line the cuffs, a light silvery blue thread joins red wool and gray cotton — and lean, modern cuts, but there’s absolutely nothing fussy or overwrought about Noren’s design or his execution. Which is exactly why your grandson will be wearing your shirts when you’re done with them.

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Referencing a less common design, and the Northwest’s off-the-land past, the cotton-and-wool hunting shirt presents a collar-less, elbow-patched option.

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Noren, who is trained as a fine artist and printmaker and has explored garment sourcing, engineering, and fabrication, is teaching Alley-Barnes the process of putting together a garment from start to finish, by hand. Noren himself learned the trade by spending late nights in a small apparel factory in New York.

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Until recently, Noren was doing bespoke tailoring and construction, and while it’s still possible to have shirts and other objects custom made via Punctuation, the emphasis is on making use of the small portfolio of designs, the modern set of sizes, and the available fabrics.

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The custom element is strong, regardless; Alley-Barnes and Noren like being able to offer things like vintage buttons. This underscores the personal, life-long nature of the shirts.

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I love that “Seattle” gets biggest billing on the Punctuation by Tarboo label. The sense of place is integral to what’s on offer at the shop.

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When it comes to the vintage items on offer, preference is shown to those garments that are originally from the Northwest. There are perfectly aged Mackinaw jackets by Filson and coats from Littler, a now-gone Seattle shop for gentlemen.

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Whether the rest of the winter in one of Punctuation’s vintage varsity jackets.

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Not all the items at Punctuation are Northwest-made however — nor are they all for men. How could they resist bringing in this woman’s I Magnin fur baseball jacket, or …

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these Gucci sneakers?

If you’re under 40 and have never lived in some attic apartment on Saville Row — or in a luxe townhouse nearby — or traveled to Vietnam with an expressed goal of having your favorite suit knocked off in cream linen, you’ve probably never put on a custom-made shirt. Chances are decent, actually, that you’ve never slipped into a piece-by-piece, handmade shirt at all. It’s just not how we live anymore. Or, I should say, it hasn’t been how we’ve lived lately.

At Punctuation, Style Counselor Maikoiyo Alley-Barnes and local designer Matt Noren of Tarboo are changing that. The tag on their relaunched website reads, “Northwest Fashion: Not an oxymoron.”

The Capitol Hill mixed-use gallery space just launched a pocket-sized shop-in-shop in the westernmost corner of their storefront that takes objects that have stood the test of fifty years or so and puts them alongside small batch shirts that are built to be around for another half century or more.

Alley-Barnes and Noren, who have been friends since attending the Northwest School together some years ago, (edited: the two met at Punctuation) make about a shirt a day (actually, two or three a day). The images in this slideshow get you close enough to see the careful corners and rich materials, but you need to hold one in your hand to gauge the impeccable construction, ultra-clean lines, and subtle (very subtle) details. One thing you won’t see: The extremely reasonable price tag. Tarboo shirts are about a hundred dollars. Both men want their friends and community to be able wear these shirts, and the price points reflect that.

Watch the slideshow here to learn more about the shop and preview the new and old apparel you’ll find there this weekend, Saturday and Sunday December 11 & 12, when Punctuation stays open from 12 to 8 and offers sale prices during the Pike and Pine Holiday Shopping Weekend.

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Tags: Locally Made, Capitol Hill, Seattle Style, Style Counsel, Locally Designed, Seattle Menswear

Just Landed: The Graduate

Local letterman’s jackets for postgrads at Deli: pretty cool.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Nov 09, 2010 at 08:00AM 4 Comments

Photo: Chris Williams

Slideshow: Your boyfriend’s back. The made-in-Washington varsity jacket at Deli.

View Slideshow » Photo: Chris Williams

Slideshow: Your boyfriend’s back. The made-in-Washington varsity jacket at Deli.

View Slideshow » Photo: Chris Williams
View Slideshow » Photo: Chris Williams
View Slideshow » Photo: Chris Williams

It’s funny. You wouldn’t think the letterman’s jacket would be as timeless and iconic as it is, right? I mean, are there any other high school relics that you pine for? Yet, especially with all the Pendleton plaids and upturned dark denim cuffs, the simple shape and wool-and-leather construction just feels really right. (And if it’s too simple for you, check out these embellished varieties highlighted on vogue.com.)

Max Heigh at Deli on First Ave worked with Eastern Washington’s Skookum Sportswear to create a varsity jacket that even pencil-pushing nerds can get inside. In fact, I think that would be a really good look.

Deli’s varsity jackets are made with hand-stitched, 100 percent virgin wool and leather hide in America. So that the design is their own, and the jacket is distinct from the one you might have earned hurdling over high jumps or tackling 15-year-olds, Deli dropped the elastic from the waist for a tailored suit look and added a signature Skookum/DELI wool tag.

Check the slideshow here for images, starring Heigh. As with each of Heigh’s special product projects, there’s a short film to go with. The varsity jacket’s was shot and edited by Chris Williams; you can see it here. Oh, and as a catch-up: Deli used to be in Pioneer Square, then Heigh opened Butcher Shop up on First, then closed it so that Deli could transfer its goods off of Yesler and up to the across-the-street-from-SAM spot.

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Tags: Locally Made, Locally Designed, Seattle Menswear, Just Landed, New in Stores

Color Theory #2

Butch Blum’s Kay Smith-Blum gives a simple answer to a big question.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Sep 17, 2010 at 08:00AM 0 Comments

Slideshow: Go with the gray (and blue/gray, and charcoal, and soft cloud-colored hues) at Butch Blum. Pictured here: Blugirl top; $495, and Alberta Ferretti skirt; $695

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Slideshow: Go with the gray (and blue/gray, and charcoal, and soft cloud-colored hues) at Butch Blum. Pictured here: Blugirl top; $495, and Alberta Ferretti skirt; $695

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Faliero Sarti scarf; $385

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Moschino Cheap and Chic knit dress; $675

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Boglioli knit shirt: $395, Coppley pant; $295, and Timberland Boot Company shoe; $255

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Armani Jeans bag; $235

Fall might be the season when color comes most into play. It’s that whole fall colors thing – we just can’t resist evoking those earth and jewel tones.

But when I went to former Style Counselor Kay Smith-Blum for her take on the color(s) that would ease us out of this season and into the next, she was pretty succinct in her reply.

“Gray is the new black,” the Butch Blum co-owner said.

Fair enough. Where our first Color Theorist waxed long and green on the palette of his mid-summer obsession, Smith-Blum supplied us with this slideshow on current Butch Blum pieces that put a great spin on the idea of a gray day.

What colors are you feeling for fall?

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Tags: Style Counsel, Seattle Menswear

Meet the Shopkeepers: The Industry

Hoping to make friends with a lightweight bomber jacket this fall?

Posted by: Malika Ritchie on Aug 26, 2010 at 08:00AM 1 Comments

Industry Professionals: Owners Megan Stokke and Angela Kantanto

Megan Stokke and Angela Kantanto opened the Industry in 2006 when they sensed Seattle could use a specialty shop that didn’t err on the side of professional work wear or outdoor performance fleece. And who knows better what looks good on twenty-something guys than a couple of twenty-something girls?

WWW : What’s your personal spin on the ubiquitous “How can I help you?” question?
Stokke and Katanto: We really try to make friends rather than customers at the Industry… we want to give our guys the best experience possible at our store.

What’s your favorite thing in the store right now?
With fall quickly approaching we’re most excited about our jackets, especially this light-weight, water resistant, nylon bomber style from Carapace that’s perfect for Seattle’s rainy weather.

Where do you shop when you’re not at your store?
We’re girls who love our accessories!! It’s amazing how the right necklace or fantastic pair of shoes can really transform an outfit and make it unique. We especially love Kimberly Baker jewelry and Lambs Ear: for shoes.

What specific store or type of store do you feel is missing from Seattle’s shopping scene?
Ever since Gems closed last year there is a significant lack of quality men’s shoe stores in Seattle. We’d love to see another one pop up soon!! And it would be great if it was close to us.

What’s the weirdest thing that’s ever happened in your store?
Luckily we haven’t had many weird things happen at the shop… yet! Our customers are the best in Seattle and make our job incredibly fun, especially when we get cool visitors like Bill from Band of Horses who stopped by after performing at Sasquatch. He was a great sport and let us be super cheesy fans obliging us with a photo.

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Tags: Downtown, Seattle Menswear, Meet the Shopkeeper

Color Theory #1

New blog series gets Style Counselors talking color trends

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jul 26, 2010 at 01:00PM 0 Comments

Slideshow: Avocado and Aqua, because “neighboring hues are good partners”

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Slideshow: Avocado and Aqua, because “neighboring hues are good partners”

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These images are from Better Homes and Garden … circa before you were born

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Cepress says, “Color relationship is a powerful tool that we should all explore.”

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A vintage Mikasa set in a similar colorway

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Cepress’s reversible avocado and aqua vests are for sale at Velouria on the Hill

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Cepress’s pieces are always impeccable; they feel artisan-made in the best way

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Cepress’s workroom, where color theories get put to the test

Color Theory #1 asks local menswear designer Michael Cepress to tell us what shades and hues he’s currently obsessed with. And, as is often the case here, it’s all about the slideshow. To hear from more Seattle Met Style Counsel subjects, stay tuned.

Michael Cepress: While any number of things inspire me and the work I create, one of the most critical and essential components is indeed color. In our lives today a host of elements can collide in an aesthetic experience – cultural references, patterns, textures, histories, traditions…and this is very much the case in my work as a designer. Every garment I design comes to reference a heap of different times and places (in my own mind as designer, at least!) and in the end it is COLOR that ties the entire experience together. While attitudes and styling and combinations change, it is often color that we rely on to help make an entire look “make sense.”

One particular color experience I have been obsessing over lately is the pairing of turquoise and olive…or as the interior design trend forecasters of the 1960s called it: “Aqua and Avocado”. In smarty-pants art school lingo we’d label this an analagous color scheme, as the chosen colors sit beside one another on the color wheel. True colorists would use an even more complex description, but I won’t go there! Upon chatting up my artist friend Emily Pothast about this subject, I came to learn that she has not only been featured on this style blog….but was also wearing the very color scheme I’m focusing on today! Serendipity!

This particular pairing is a good one, and one that has been on my mind for years. I remembered – and revisited – a copy of a 1960 issue of Better Homes and Gardens Decorating Ideas (see the slideshow for more) that featured a host of glorious interiors from the period that favored this very scheme. In my personal life I live with this scheme by way of our bathroom towels (a gift from my dear friend and Seattle composer Byron Au Yong) as well as a wonderful set of Mikasa brand dishes in which I prepare my morning coffee.

I’ve gathered these little moments of inspiration and poured them into one particular fabric that continues to inspire me and is featured in some of my newest spring designs. The plaid fabric I speak of blends the handsome aqua and avocado scheme into a range of blacks and greys that make the fabric even more suited to the wardrobe of most any man. We all know guys have closets full of blue, black, and grey, so why not bring in an exciting accent?

A new series of vests made of the fabric are now on the racks at Velouria here on Capitol Hill, the hub for MC ready to wear. And these particular vests offer some “two-for-one” appeal as they are entirely reversible. One side features the plaid I love so much; the other side showcases a solid color in your choice of olive, navy or black, backed with a very fun and sophisticated black and grey stripe. These price at $118 and they’re available right now!

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Tags: Locally Made, Style Counsel, Locally Designed, Seattle Menswear, Color Theory

Sale: Sportswise

Big discounts on stuff to get sweaty in.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jul 19, 2010 at 01:00PM 0 Comments

Sportswear by Nau is among the discounted goods at the Sportswise warehouse sale this week

Where: The Canal Building; 716 N 34 St in Fremont

What: Men’s and women’s Sportswise warehouse sale. By now – this is the sixth sportswear sale of its kind in the last year – Seattle must be home to the best-dressed exercisers in the country. I mean, right? Look for discounts from 50 to 90 percent on good stuff to sweat in by Dude Girl, Nau, Merrell, Descente, and more.

When: The official sale begins on Friday July 23 from 10 to 8, continues Saturday from 10 to 6 and goes thru Sunday from 10 to 5. There’s a pre-sale on Thursday, but you’re only privy to that if you’re on Sportswise’s mailing list.

For more information: Visit the Sportswise website

And remember: the words “warehouse sale” are code for “wear modest undergarments and a loose outfit so that you can easily try on purchases in the un-private gang dressing room.”

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Tags: Fremont, Sports, Seattle Menswear, Spring/Summer sale 2010

Sale of the Week: His and Hers

Butch Blum’s summer sale breaks June 17

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jun 15, 2010 at 07:00AM 0 Comments

Slideshow: Take 40 percent off key spring/summer pieces at Butch Blum beginning Thursday June 17

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Slideshow: Take 40 percent off key spring/summer pieces at Butch Blum beginning Thursday June 17

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Forty percent off $295 Armani jeans and more

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Culturata shirts normally priced at $195 will go for $117

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This Alberta Ferretti top was featured in our spring fashion editorial; as of Thursday you can take 40 percent off the original price of $525

You know Kay and Butch Blum, right? They’re like downtown’s consummate neighbors; for the last 35 years they’ve been right there at their on Fifth Ave department store dispensing advice and the latest news as relates to classic style – and most recently, the school board.

Every year at this time, the couple breaks for sale, making it fine time to really get acquainted.

Select store-wide savings – to the tune of 40 percent off – on his and her basics, business attire, and special occasion pieces (see the slideshow here for examples) begin Thursday June 17.

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Tags: Seattle Menswear, Spring/Summer sale 2010

Critical Mass

Bravern vendors gang up for big sales through the end of June.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jun 11, 2010 at 10:00PM 0 Comments

We thought you should know what’s up at Bellevue’s empire of luxury style this month:

+You can save 30 percenton select spring/summer shoes at Jimmy Choo.

+At DNA 2050, you’ll get the same 30 percent savings on select denim and other apparel items.

+The folks at Salvatore Ferragamo would like you take 35-40 percent off select spring merchandise and ready-to-wear.

+The Wolford spring/summer sale starts today (June 11); expect savings throughout the shop—and expect zebra-striped leggings.

+And finally, David Lawrence is offering 20-50 percent off select mens and womens clothing.

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Tags: Accessories, Eastside, Shoes, Bravern, Seattle Menswear, Spring/Summer sale 2010

Book Review: Man’s World

Can the Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Everyday Dressing teach men how to dress?

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Apr 26, 2010 at 08:00AM 0 Comments

This book won’t teach you how to kiss or dance.

A short list of things I’ve always assumed can’t be gleaned from a book: Kissing, dancing, dressing. After spending the weekend with the recently released Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Everyday Dressing, I am prepared to say that I may have been wrong about the last.

It’s not that trend expert and author Tom Julian’s tips on the “workday dressy” look hit, in my mind, just the right note, or that I agree wholeheartedly with all of his ideas about and details. In fact, bits like this, “Whether they stand out because of contrasting color, innovative shape, or vibrant thread, out-of-the-ordinary buttons give a simple shirt flair and personality,” on the subject of Novelty Buttons, (see also: embroidery on denim pockets) strike me as potentially bad information. We all know that guy, and I think any book that attempts to address style and tell the reader what to wear needs to be taken with a grain of salt, and maybe the veto power of a trusted friend.

I do think that style can’t be taught. It can, however, be encouraged and cultivated, and maybe, with varying success, copied or co-opted; kind of a fake-it-til-you-make-it thing. And for guys transitioning from sweatshirts-and-Levis to oh-God-please-don’t-make-me-wear-Dockers, or from dot-com-layoff to now-what???, the Nordstrom Guide (available in stores and online) makes simple work of identifying basics (sport shirts, sweaters, pants, shorts, jeans, outerwear) and finding a way to pair each with good info, and good photos, on fabric, details, shoes, and day-to-day applications (which is where you get into “workday dressy” and “travel dressy” and other uncomfortable -y constructions).

And the Nordstrom Guide isn’t trying to the Rachel Zoe or Sporty Spice book (thank God). This is definitely a starter tome. It’s not for the guy who obsessively watches the Dries runway shows, or even for the guy who already owns seven Steven Alan shirts and knows when and where to sport his Quoddy driving mocs. I think, actually, considering it’s for-the-beginner feeling, the hardest thing about giving a guy the Nordstrom Guide is the implication that said guy needs the guide.

But that brings us back to the gentleman in transition. And these days, there are certainly a few of those hanging around.

Although there is no chapter on suiting, smart bits on tailoring, proper fit, cuff length, and dress shirts will be helpful to guys getting into the five-days-of-ties lifestyle. Still, this book won’t answer his questions about notched collars and three buttons vs. two. For that, I suggest spending a lunch hour with Brett at the downtown Nordstrom, Luke at Mario’s, Butch at Butch Blum, John at Jack Straw, or Gian at DeCaro Sartoria.

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Tags: Seattle Menswear

Meet the Cleevers

Or would that be “meat”? Butcher Shop serves hoodies, not chop steak

Posted by: Caitlin King on Apr 01, 2010 at 06:00AM 0 Comments

Sure, but where do the get the hoodies and denim?

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Sure, but where do the get the hoodies and denim?

If you’ve noticed a throng of curious passersby on First Ave - nope, not at the Lusty Lady, but just down the street from her - it’s probably due to the creepiest windows ever to hit downtown. The knives-stabbed-into-metal and side-of-beef displays do put a spin on window dressing. And they do get a thorough inspection from everyone who walks by The Butcher Shop, a new urban-edged menswear pop-up from Deli in Pioneer Square.

The store, which will stay open through May, is a collaboration between Deli owner Max Heigh and California-based, asymmetrically oriented, heavily zippered brand Beta Unit.

Photo: Chelsea Randall

Everything in this meat market is under $200. Testing that upper limit is the shop’s most exclusive cut: Deli/Beta Unit-designed Japanese denim jeans with cuffs of original Pendleton wool from Oregon. Only 40 pair were made, so get them while they’re hot—or while it’s still chilly enough to have wool in your jeans.

Heigh hopes to launch a few more concept pop-ups around town (it’s likely all will be food-themed; his family’s in the business), each a collaboration and showcase for a specific brand. Each will also have a short film to go along with it; the one for Butch Shop (is it a slasher flick? you’ll have to see for yourself) is on display now, along with tees, denim, and non-traditional hoodies.

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Tags: Downtown, new, Seattle Menswear