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Slideshow: Logan Neitzel’s Latest

A New York Fashion Week report from our favorite former Seattleite.

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SLIDESHOW: Leather macrame (leather macrame!!!) and more: We’ve got all 16 looks from former Seattleite Logan Neitzel’s Spring 2012 line—straight from his recent NYFW show.

View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography

SLIDESHOW: Leather macrame (leather macrame!!!) and more: We’ve got all 16 looks from former Seattleite Logan Neitzel’s Spring 2012 line—straight from his recent NYFW show.

View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography
View Slideshow » Photo: Rick Kim Photography

On Friday, September 9 during New York Fashion Week’s opening weekend (otherwise known, to readers of the New York Times, as the 48 hours that define fashion) former Seattleite Logan Neitzel showed his new collection in an art gallery/“secret bar space” on the city’s Lower East Side.

There were 16 gorgeous looks created by hand with leather, silk jersey, denim, and burnt chiffon and styled by James Valeri.

Local creative content engineers, Wintr, hooked up a connection with Spotify which Wintr’s Taylor Kieburtz used to create and spin a playlist for the show and an open-to-the-world collaborative playlist for the after-party. It lives forever at Spotify (which I would link to, but you have to be a member to get into the site, and you have to have an invite to be a member, so …).

The slideshow here puts you in the front row with edgy fashion editors and followers of the dark aesthetic practiced by the likes of Rick Owens, Helmut Lang, and Ann Demeulemeester.

More? Yes, you can see more via this Portable T.V. report And keep your eyes open around town, too. We talked with one of the city’s top fashion consumers who went more or less directly to Neitzel’s showroom in NYC upon her arrival, and quickly placed a pretty epic order.

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Tags: Logan Neitzel, Project Runway, New York Fashion Week 2011

‘Project Runway’ Auditions in Seattle

Fremont boutique owner Patricia Wolfkill to help decide who goes on to the next round; here’s what she’ll be looking for on Friday.

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Will the next season of Project Runway have a Logan Neitzel? That is, will Seattle represent? Merge boutique’s Patricia Wolfkill is among those deciding.

Tomorrow, while you and I are returning phone calls and faxing signatures and sitting in meetings, designers from the Seattle area will be trying very hard to impress a panel of judges representing Project Runway. Yeah, the Seattle auditions are Friday, April 29. If you’re going to be there, good luck to you—and maybe consider reading this quick Q and A with boutique owner Patricia Wolfkill. When Merge’s owner told me she asked, for the second year, to help out, I thought it’d be fun to share her criteria and insight with you here.

WWW: What do you know about why the show’s producers asked you to help judge this round of Seattle-area Project Runway hopefuls?
I’m not sure how Project Runway got my name! They called one afternoon and asked me to send them my resume and bio and said that they would be making a decision shortly on who they would pick to help judge the auditions. I suppose my background in the garment industry in NYC and LA sealed the deal. I worked for over 20 years in the wholesale side of the fashion business doing everything from sales, PR, marketing, production/manufacturing, design/merchandising as well as owning two different apparel companies. I think I bring a very real world perspective to the table at audition time. I know how hard good designers have to work at every step of the process and how their business and creativity need to come together to make it a success.

What will you be looking for when you meet each of the candidates and see their work?
I not only want to see talent but also the drive to succeed. The fashion industry is a multi-billion dollar global industry and is not for the thin skinned or faint of heart. It’s tough out there in the real world outside of Seattle and Portland. Designers are “judged” every season they show a collection. They need to have the stamina and confidence to carry on. I don’t care what they look like or how sassy they are. That’s something for the producers of the show to deal with. I’m looking for the designer with the most talent.

We sometimes see contestants who are technically gifted but lack, perhaps, a sharp sense of modern style and current, worthwhile trends. On the other hand you get really stylish and interesting candidates who get not just the current look, but the one we’ll all want next season, too. But oftentimes that type of person can’t sew … When it really comes down to it, what’s more important?
The ability to sew, to artfully construct a garment, is a very marketable one. Good pattern makers and seamstresses make a great living. But the ability to do those things does not a designer make. A true designer has the vision and creativity to transcend the ordinary and create a work of art. I’m not going to name names, but there are quite a few designers out there that don’t sew. They work with the best pattern makers and tailors/seamstresses to create their vision. I think great designers understand style, have an eye for how a garment will flatter the body, understand fabric and how it will conform (or not) to different shapes, and have impeccable taste levels. So in the end, in answer to the question, I think vision and creativity is more important than being able to sew. However, Project Runway is looking for designers that can sew. It’s the nature of the competition (and the norm for the business) and they want to see the whole package.

Looking back at last year’s judging round, what did you think of Logan Neitzel? What did you think of his work versus how he came across as a character and a designer during the season?
I think Logan is an interesting designer. He reminds me a little of Haider Ackermann, Rad Hourani, et cetera…that dark edgy mysterious thing. I don’t think that really came through enough in the competition though. I wish there had been more “luxury” to his pieces, more refinement—the kind of garments you want to sink your teeth into because they look and feel so good. “Luxurious edge” is just hard to beat in my opinion. He’s young and doing a great job. I’d love to see where he is in five years!

And what about Gretchen Jones, last season’s winner?
Ohhhhh……Gretchen. Hmmmm. There is a fine line between confidence and arrogance that I think was crossed. It made “good” TV, but distracted me from being objective about her designs. Not one of my favorites. Sorry.

Complete this sentence: If I could dream up the perfect Seattle-based designer to represent our city on the show and ultimately knock the socks off of everyone at Fashion Week, he/she would hold designers like ___________ and _________ in the highest regard, he/she would strive to make garments that would be desired by _________ and __________ and he/she would fit perfectly in my store alongside labels like _____________ and _____________.
-Phoebe Philo AND Ann Demeulemeester
-young AND old
-IAN and Ilaria Nistri

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Tags: Merge, Logan Neitzel, Project Runway

Behind the Scenes: Logan Neitzel

Keeping it Seattle-y, but going super broodish and dark for New York Fashion Week.

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SLIDESHOW: Behind the scenes at Logan Neitzel’s Feb 12 New York Fashion Week presentation.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

SLIDESHOW: Behind the scenes at Logan Neitzel’s Feb 12 New York Fashion Week presentation.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

Part of the look of the show was a chartreuse green nail lacquer custom made for the designer, via a Seattle connection. Bumble and Bumble artists did the hair.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

Neitzel is known for working with leather, and for presenting a dramatic aesthetic.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

For more context on this type of aesthetic, check out the Paris fashion week shows currently in progress, and look for lines such as Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Damir Doma, and Gareth Pugh. Whether or not the looks in Neitzel’s Brood are the kind of thing you can imagine rocking at the Fremont Market, there’s an ever-growing faction of folks who can, and do.

Flashback to NYFW in February; we’ve got this seasons’ report from Seattle designer Logan Neitzel.

Though the Art Institute of Seattle grad now dwells completely in the realm of New York fashion (Vogue and WWD were both at his show, and some verrrry impressive names made some serious inquiries about styling the presentation for him), Neitzel and his formerly Seattle-based co-pilot, Rachelle Robinett, managed to include some Northwesterners in the making of his Fall 2011 show, which was called Brood.

(Let’s just pause there to reflect on the regional pastime of brooding, particularly when it’s 27 degrees a month before spring is due to spring.)

There’s Bainbridge Island native Jeffrey Shirbroun, who is Neitzel’s design assistant, one-time Seattleite Devin Doyle shot the show (his pictures are available on Neitzel’s site), and the nail color was a result of a connection with sometime-local Kate Pawlicki from Pulp Lab. The online retailer and pop-up shop pioneer arranged for Neitzel and his team to deliver the vibe of the collection to the lacquer makers at Strangebeautiful, who formulated a custom color for the day.

So: points for keeping it real.

Not that, technically speaking, Neitzel and co. need our approval on that end. The last year or so has been good to them. Features in mags such as Elle, Marie Claire, Numero, and Nylon are spreading the love. The web’s been good, too; Not Just a Label, a sort of online home for the avant-garde, is a big supporter, and the site’s online shop sells Logan Netizel alongside other examples of nihilistically sexy, vaguely Japanese-inspired, ancient-future fashion.

To go behind the scenes and watch the pre-show pomp and prep, access the slideshow here.

You can see images from the collection on the designer’s blog; subscribers to WWD can see the show on their site.

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Tags: Logan Neitzel, Project Runway, Art Institute Seattle

NYFW Report: Logan Neitzel

The Seattle native and former Project Runway contestant shares his NYFW success.

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Slideshow: Images of Logan Neitzel’s s/s 2011 collection from New York’s recent fashion week.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

Slideshow: Images of Logan Neitzel’s s/s 2011 collection from New York’s recent fashion week.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

The designer Logan Neitzel

Last we heard from Logan Neitzel, Vogue.com was into his leather goods. That was last spring. Last week, as New York Fashion Week was coming to a close, there was even better news from the former Art Institute of Seattle student and Project Runway alum.

Neitzel told me that when he showed his spring/summer 2011 collection, none other than Elle editors Anne Slowey and Kate Lanphear (aka La Lanphear, she of the most coveted cool in American fashion media) showed up to check it out, as did editors from Italian, French, Japanese, and Chinese Vogues. And the response was good. How good? Half of the collection — flip through the slideshow here to see what it’s all about — is currently in the possession of French Vogue, who are shooting it for a December editorial. That’s good.

Oh, and, the New York Times’ T Magazine has let the designer know of their plans to give his work some ink as well.

As you check out the slideshow, keep this in mind: A collection is more than clothes. The hair and makeup supply the mood behind the garments, and give the designer’s colors, shapes, cuts, and references some context. You’ll note that these images of Neitzel’s collection really have a solid narrative, cinematic feeling. That vibe has Seattleites behind it, too. Gene Juarez juarez/ style guru Charlie Perritt and his Identity team flew to New York to create the street urchin-in-Chanel lipstick look you’ll see here. Wait there’s more: Multi-talented Seattle-native Rachelle Robinett produced the whole genius thing.

We’re always psyched to see local minds creating waves out there in the world — and when they’re doing it with a nod to the nihilistic beauty of Rick Owens and the mystery and power of the future, so much the better.

You can purchase Neitzel’s dark and sexy designs at store.loganneitzel.com, at Eva in New York, and at farfetch.com

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Tags: Reality TV, Logan Neitzel, Art Institute Seattle

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Logan’s Run

Ex-Seattleite and former Project Runway contestant Logan Neitzel gets a shout out on vogue.com.

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This just in: More evidence that you don’t have to win Project Runway to reap the benefits of Project Runway. Case in point, this rather nice write-up on Art Institute Seattle alum Logan Neitzel.

None other than vogue.com calls the former Seattleite’s leather collection “beautiful and unique,” full of “androgynous charm” and “cool conceit.” We expected nothing less.

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Tags: Reality TV, Locally Designed, Leather, Logan Neitzel

Great People

If He Can Make It There, …

Once Seattle’s best hope, Logan Neitzel is now New York’s newest showroom heartthrob.

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Logan Neitzel: Bringin’ collarbones back

If Seattle is feeling just a little less edgy, perhaps a person or so less good-looking, it’s because Logan Neitzel, once our hometown hopeful on Project Runway, split town for – you guessed it – New York. On the occasion of tonight’s PR season finale, the silver-jeaned one (who was sent home at the end of episode 11) dished on his co-stars and leaked the big Bryant Park winner over email, and it’s all here.

Just Kidding. Of course he didn’t. C’mon, he’s the “real, sincere guy”— and non-disclosure contracts are no joke. Still, here’s what he had to say.

Wear What When: One thing a lot of us noticed in watching the show was that really, you didn’t get a lot of airtime. And the airtime you got focused on, well, your good looks and not your designs. You sort of became “the hot guy” – maybe at the expense of being seen as a designer. Did you feel that you were edited out of the show?

Logan Neitzel: Drama and eccentric personalities did get more airtime than I did by remaining more reserved. Early on, the editing was a little frustrating because I felt like the focus was on crying, problems, addictions, etc. rather than on what the designers were creating.

The fact that I was cast as the “hot guy” on the show didn’t bother me much; it’s better than being cast as the “ugly guy.”

I feel like I was edited accurately. I feel like my personality was accurately represented. Being real, sincere, that was important to me.

WWW: What do you think viewers of the show don’t know about you that they should know – what about you as a designer didn’t come through on the air?

LN: It was difficult at times being safe because you then weren’t able to explain the design concept to the judges. Had the judges been aware of the concepts of some designs they may have been more or less critical.

What may not have come through on the air is that how and what I design doesn’t necessarily fit the template for Project Runway challenges. I did what I could with the tools that were given to me – and now, I’ll do more.

WWW: One thing that struck me during this season, more so than on past seasons, is that it really seemed like all you did was sleep and work. There were some tired out folks on TV each Thursday. Was what we saw from one week to the next truly a string of consecutive days? How does that kind of non-stop grind hinder your creative process?

LN: The challenges were definitely back to back. Runway days and judging days were extremely draining. The actual time that we were given was much shorter than it appears to be. There were many elements that hindered our creativity – not just the time but the isolation from outside inspiration. Everything had to come from our minds.

WWW: You wore these great deep-V and epaulette tee shirts on the show – did you make those?

LN: Most of what I wore (and carried) on the show, I made. Some of the epaulette shirts were a friend’s brand. I’ve always preferred a deep V; I like to show off my collarbones.

WWW: What’s the plan now that you’re in New York?

LN: I’m opening a studio-showroom to make my clothing available to buyers, focusing on a fall collection.

WWW: If you had to work with two colors, and two colors only, for the next six months, which colors would you choose? Gray, black, and white are off limits because that would be too easy.

LN: That’s mean. Can I choose like, warm grey and heathered black?

WWW: No.

LN: Washed out, faded, bloody maroon and midnight blue.

WWW: Natalie Portman, Kate Moss, and your best friend from school all want you to make their New Year’s Eve look. Who’s the lucky girl and what will you design for her?

LN: Kate Moss. I’d make her a sleeveless, thigh-length, leather paneled dress. And a hardware-and-leather belt. And a cropped, strong-shouldered fur jacket, with a leather lapel and tight leather sleeves. She’d wear grey and black tights and snub nose black suede booties. And her messy hair of course, all shaken out.

WWW: What music do you listen to when you design?

LN: I design in silence.

WWW: What book is on your nightstand?

LN: The Karl Lagerfeld Diet.

WWW: What do you miss about Seattle?

LN: I miss driving my mustang. A lot.

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Tags: Logan Neitzel

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Hometown Hopeful

Seattle designer and Project Runway contestant Logan Neitzel might be famous by 10:07 tonight.

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Welcome to the first Thursday of the rest of your life: Tonight, at ten o’clock on Lifetime, Project Runway premieres. This season’s Seattle contestant is Logan Neitzel (since there have been three designers in a row from our fair city let’s just assume there will be one from here on out), and he can’t say much (confidentiality clauses, show ratings, spoilers, etc etc), but here’s what he said to me in a quick email chat earlier this week.

I’d say welcome back, but I guess we don’t know when you actually returned … and of course we can’t talk about that yet. When did the show actually shoot?

The complete process lasted about 5 months and the show wrapped up around late February 09 during New York Fashion.

Were you bummed that the show moved from NY to LA?

Personally I would of loved to experience the show in New York but I’m just blessed and thankful to have had this awesome opportunity. And, I see that it’s a great opportunity for Project Runway to do the show in LA for the first time, and being a part of that was great.

What was the best thing about living in LA?

Constant sunshine and new surroundings. I mean I come from Washington
where it rains 300 days out of the year so that was a breathe of fresh air in itself. I must admit I really enjoyed the garment district it was a designer’s dream.

What was the worst part about living in LA?

Not being able to experience much of it or enjoy the sunshine because we were sewing so much. Every waking moment of our time was dedicated to sewing so honestly we never really got the opportunity to see what LA had to offer.

Logan_1

Are you friends with Blayne from last season? Was it hard to follow the guy who put Seattle on the map as the fake-tan and “Holla!” capital of the country?

No comment

Speaking of Project Runway characters – the Blaynes, Kennedys, and Santinos of the last few years – what do we have to look forward to in terms of love-to-hate-’em types.

Designers that are cast on the show are normally very eccentric people and they really don’t change very much. You will have to see for yourself.

Who would you rather have as a neighbor, Heidi or Tim?

If it’s between Heidi in a bikini working in her garden next door to me, hello I’d rather live next to Heidi. But I still love you Tim!

What’s next for you now that the show is on the air and you’re back at home?

Currently I have a lot of projects in the works: my spring collection, launching my online boutique, and a couple of other things that I can’t discuss at this time. But you will see lot’s more of me very soon.

——————————————————————————————-

Perhaps we’ll check back with Logan later, when it’s discussing time.

You can see images from a few of Logan’s past collections and follow a link to his blog if you check out his site. Oh, and if he looks familiar, it might be because The Stranger named him one of Seattle’s Sexiest in 2005 (click here and scroll down to Sexiest Bar-Back)

[Images from Lifetime’s Project Runway site.]

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Tags: Logan Neitzel

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