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Retail News

Filson’s New Guy on the Runway

Images from Richard Chai’s February 9 runway show, featuring Filson-inspired accessories.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Feb 10, 2012 at 10:00AM Speech Bubble 2 Comments

SLIDESHOW: Richard Chai Love by Filson creative director Richard Chai. The fall/winter ‘12 collection sparked what would become the formal relationship between the designer and the local brand; many of the upcoming season’s pieces feature Filson-informed elements. Check the fanny pack-belt-coat situation here. Swoon.

View Slideshow »

Filson must have given him the day off. The brand’s new creative director, Richard Chai, presented the fall ‘12 collection for his Richard Chai Love line in New York yesterday. Of course, it was this collection that sparked the partnership and the Filson-informed uptown/outdoor vibe was prominent, so I’m sure local HQ was more than accommodating.

By the way: Richard Chai Love isn’t available in Seattle. No one carries it. Let’s see if that doesn’t change here soon …

For now, click through the slideshow here to see highlights from the runway presentation and get some background knowledge on the practical, rugged pieces that Chai adapted for his no less practical or rugged ready-to-wear.

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Tags: Filson, New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012, Richard Chai

Fashion News

Headlines: Filson Hires Richard Chai

Now the local brand is really in fashion.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Feb 09, 2012 at 08:05AM Speech Bubble 8 Comments

The guy who designed this, Richard Chai, now has his hands in Seattle’s 115-year old pride and joy, Filson. Hunting, fishing, and blue runway lipstick? We can’t wait to see what comes of it.

A short list of people attending New York Fashion Week while you and I order double espressos in the rain: Anna Wintour, Kanye West, local photographer and Seattle Met contributor Alvin Nguyen, and the dude from Filson.

Seattle-based CEO and president Mark Korros is previewing the fall ‘12 shows and mingling with editors, stylists, and buyers because, as Style.com recently reported, his brand new coworker is a big player in the week’s events. Hot young American designer Richard Chai has been named Filson’s new creative director. This is no contract gig or one-off collaboration. Chai’s on staff.

Sure, our beloved SoDo-based retailer of all things rugged and hipster-approved has been in fashion for the last few years, but this new partnership means they’re really in fashion.

When Chai shows later today, his models will be sporting gear inspired and informed by Filson sport gear. The New York–based designer, a longtime Filson fan, worked with the Seattle company last year to negotiate this; it was during these collaboration conversations that Chai was offered a position with the company.

I exchanged emails with Korros just after he touched down in NYC yesterday; next up (fingers crossed), I’ll be able to chat with Chai when he comes into town. Korros says Chai is “very anxious to experience the brand in its environment.” Is it just me? I can’t help compiling a mental list of restaurant recommendations and shopping stops for him.

Check back tomorrow for images from Chai’s show; for now, read my dialog with the Filson boss.

WWW: Filson’s collaborations with fashion brands of late have been really exciting—I’m thinking of the Levis x Filson thing. I imagine these kinds of projects will only get more interesting if Chai is encouraged to bring in other exciting young designers.
Korros: We will continue to work with Iconic American brands on a select basis to bring new and exciting products to market. Richard’s influence will be focused on helping us build out our “Rugged Casual Apparel" offerings as we work to provide our customers great Filson apparel and accessories to fit their everyday needs.

I know it’s always been important for the company to stay loyal to outdoorsmen and those who don’t necessarily have fashion on their compass. At the same time, a new customer is finding Filson every minute … and looking for fashion pieces. Presumably, Chai will offer more for the latter than the former—do you foresee him having a hand with utilitarian duck hunting vests, too?
It is as important that we maintain our commitment to function as our commitment to building high quality everyday apparel with a focus on Filson classic styling and comfort. Our customers can enjoy both from Filson, but they do not need to be the same.

Should we expect radical changes and new product lines from Chai as creative head?
We do not see this as change as much as expanding upon the heritage we have enjoyed for 115 years. Richard shares in our passion of Filson’s classic design. Together, we will continue to build approachable, timeless styles from the best materials and combine craftsmanship that is built to last the test of time.

Some Filson pieces are now being produced in China; are there any plans to move all manufacturing back to the U.S.—back to Seattle? Does Chai have an interest in domestically produced goods?
Over 70 percent of what we sell today comes from our Filson Seattle-based factory. We employ 95 people here with several who have decades of experience crafting our apparel, luggage, and accessories. [Seattle] is very important as it relates to the core of our brand. We would choose to produce everything here in Seattle if possible. Resource limitations we’ve faced have forced us to source elsewhere in the U.S.A. and other countries around the world. Made in the U.S.A. is very important and is part of what the Filson Brand is; we are looking to keep producing [Chai’s] designs in our [Seattle] factory or with our other authorized sewing partners in the U.S.A.

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Tags: Filson, Retail News, Seattle Retail News, New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012, Richard Chai

Seattle Style News

Filson x Levi’s

Tonight in New York, they’re celebrating in Seattle style.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Aug 11, 2011 at 07:30AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

The Levi’s x Filson collaboration is being feted tonight in New York City. It’s not that you weren’t invited, it’s that, you know, you have other places to be.

The made-in-Seattle collection was announced last year at this time and has been popping up on New World pioneers since then. It’s a pretty big deal.

So no matter what else you’re doing this Thursday evening, make sure you’re a little bit smug about the fact that in the Meat Packing District, they’re romanticizing evergreen trees, cool blue skies, and your rugged, outdoorsy hipster style.

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Tags: Locally Made, Filson, Heritage Brands

Seattle Style News

Just Landed: Filson x Blackbird

Could this bag be any more local?

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jul 28, 2011 at 10:00AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

Photo: Blackbird

Blackbird found the only way to improve on Filson; they got them to make a bag in black.

Props to Blackbird in Ballard for knowing that the only thing you could to make Filson bags cooler is to make one in black.

And then another round of props to the menswear pioneers for actually getting the iconic Seattle-based brand to do it.

For sale now at the shop and on blackbirdballard.com: the Filson Medium Field Bag in Blackbird Black. Don’t sleep on it, though. Only 66 of these things were produced, (as in historic Route 66) and each comes with a harmonica, a copy of the sheet music for Woody Guthrie’s “This Land Is Your Land,” and a railroad striped bandana.

Authentic Americana, by way of Seattle, for $265.

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Tags: Accessories, Seattle Style, Filson, Seattle Retail News, Blackbird

Sales

Filson Warehouse Sale

This Saturday: Savings on iconic wooly gear and carryalls in the perfect shades of mossy, Northwest taupe.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jul 19, 2011 at 09:20AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

Will really choice items, like the moleskin shirt, be available at the Filson warehouse sale on Saturday? There’s only one way to find out (and that’s by getting there early).

Where: The Filson warehouse: 3851 First Ave S (just shy of Spokane St; look for Compton Lumber)

What: The just-announced warehouse sale represents a four-hour window in which to score Filson’s signature outerwear. luggage, and totes. Men’s and women’s styles—closeouts, factory seconds, and items that have been returned—from the hipster-approved local heritage brand will be discounted from 30 to 70 percent off.

If you’ve heard the rumblings that Filson may be moving their production out of Seattle you’ll recognize that this is an opportunity to get a deal on what might be an endangered species: actual Seattle-made Filson gear.

When: Saturday July 23 from 8 to noon. Our advice: get there early, but remember: No one likes an early bird.

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Tags: Locally Made, Filson, Heritage Brands, Locally Designed

Shopping Map: 18 Seattle Essentials

Summer’s here, you’ve got out-of-towners on the pullout couch, and they want to shop. Go!

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jun 20, 2011 at 08:00AM Speech Bubble 3 Comments

Here’s what we mean by “essential”: The Field House in Ballard sells hearty, practical Northwest and American products like Thermoses and Pendleton blankets, and they do so in a way that elevates these objects to a place of sophistication and high design. Because we’re practical, and sophisticated.

In thinking of your summer guests and mine, smart travelers from other smart cities who want to know where and how to see Seattle style in action, I thought I’d make a list of 12 must-shop spots in town.

Once I got started, I thought, Okay, well, 15. And then I panicked, feeling I couldn’t do it in less than 25. And “essential” has such an edited, discriminating ring to it, doesn’t it? Twenty-five wouldn’t do. I settled myself with this mapped list of 18 Essential Seattle Shops, and figured we’d do another list later in this season, for that second wave of friends-and-family tourism. Deal? Deal.

For now, you might be wondering what makes a store essential to our city’s landscape.

In some cases—say, Curtis Steiner, Palm Room, Kobo, and Far 4—it’s a sense of you-won’t-find-this-anywhere-else. With, for example, Essenza (where exquisite his-and-her scents mingle with locally and internationally crafted jewelry and the sweetest selection of items for baby), it’s a matter of worldliness; the sense that you and your out-of-towners might find it similar to the little discovery you made in Paris, Barcelona, San Francisco.

And then there are shops like Field House, REI, and Filson, that practically draw a portrait of the nature-loving Northwest spirit; and Elliott Bay Books, Uwajimaya, Sur La Table and Baby & Co, because they’ve been here for a long time, too, and they illustrate a different side of our pioneering spirit.

You and your mother-in-law from Montreal will find all these and more on the shopping map linked here.

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Tags: Filson

Trunk Show: New and Old Filson at the Road

See what happens when a heritage brand goes for a new look.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Dec 06, 2010 at 09:10AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

The new Greenwood wool jacket by Filson.

Where: The downtown flagship location of Road Apparel

What: A big part of the huge popularity of local brand Filson is their don’t-fix/change/alter/or/redesign-it-because-it-isn’t-broken ethos. Which isn’t to say that things have remained exactly the same for the last hundred years but neither has the company done the Woolrich thing, for instance, and hired a young gun to take the line somewhere new.

In a recent press statement, the company itself acknowledged that there has been an ’increased fascination with “heritage” brands. As a result we have seen significant interest coming from a new type of retailer, one that is bringing to us a customer who is searching for products that have function, value, style and appeal to their need for authentic gear. This is not just about putting the Filson name on more “urbane” styles.’

The new Westlake waxed jacket by Filson.

But it’s kind of about that, as this week’s trunk show illustrates. Filson says the latest collection, Northwest Passage, (two pieces are pictured here) uses ‘traditional wool and cotton fabrics as well as new waxed wool and denim. All designs have retained classic Filson styling and features with the addition of elements such as a pocket for a cell phone, zippered security pockets and hang loops at the collar. The fit of these garments are trimmer than our current styles, without sacrificing the function that defines Filson.’ The new line also carries a unique label that identifies it as distinct from the brand’s core collection.

You’ll be glad to know that these urban adventurer garments are produced in the Seattle factory.

The trunk show at the Road will also include a number of vintage items from the company’s vaults. I was told that you can look forward to checking out 1) a 1950s Filson Hunter Coat, 2) an Old Tin Cloth Cruiser donated by a customer who claims to have purchased it in the 1920s. This design of this coat dates to 1914; it is still available to purchase today. 3) a 1980’s Cruiser issued by the Forest Service, 4) Filson Laced Breeches — a design featured in a 1920s catalog, and 5) a Filson Sleeved Vest (yeah, I don’t get that either) — a design featured in a 1920’s catalog.

Will these vintage items underscore the differences or the parallels that the hipster trend hath spawned? Not sure. We’ll have to go and see for ourselves.

When: Thursday, December 9 from 3 to 8

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Tags: Filson

Let It Rain

Not to dampen your parade, but this sunshine can’t last forever.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Oct 19, 2010 at 08:00AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

Ilse Jacobsen boots from Lambs Ear

A few weeks ago I got an email from an out-of-towner who’s about to become local; she wanted to know where she should go to prepare for what she’s heard can be a pretty bleak season. Pretty bleak? It’s been all blue skies and sunshine. I can’t remember the last time I had to water my garden in October. Weird. Yet despite the unseasonably warm and dry month, there’s every chance that one of these days it’s going to start raining again and … never stop.

Therefore: this shopping map. Use it now, or, you know … save it for a rainy day.

You’ll want to start at Filson of course, because without the locally based, globally beloved outfitters, who knows where the outerwear industry would be — or what it would look like. In the same vein, both Field House and Blackbird are aficionados of the utilitarian, Americana look — and the pieces within that aesthetic that’ll keep you warm and dry. Similarly, downtown’s Federal Army and Navy Surplus is a veritable goldmine. Tell me you couldn’t put together a pretty bad-ass Issey Miyake-esque military/Parisian-street-style look by starting with one of these flight suits. And I’d love to see you one-up this season’s ubiquitous camel cape with a camo one — for about 1/100 the price.

Not your thing? Last year around this time, the fellas at Oslo’s pointed out Aether’s all-weather gear as key to the season; the Queen Anne mens’ shop can always be counted on for functional pieces with just a touch of flair.

While you’re thinking outerwear, hit Outdoor Research in SoDo for locally designed protective gear before hitting the national brands at REI.

Now how about shoes? We love these Ilsa Jacobsen rainboots from Lambs Ear. and these United Nude puffer boots at Clementine in West Seattle, which put me in the mind of Norma Kamali’s sleeping bag coats.

Edie’s has a great selection from Tretorn and A Mano has these very smart Loeffler Randall boots — just about as elegant as a pair of galoshes can be.

But I love that wet-weather shoes are no longer just knee-high pull-on things with a somewhat ironic sense of style. Cases in point: Kartell’s black recycled-plastic wedges at Pulp Lab’s weekend pop-up, the Alexander Herchcovitch-designed capsule collection for Melissa, also in totally recycled plastic at Clementine.

And really, the whole clog/wedge thing in general (please see these Rachel Comey beauties at Totokaelo): pretty good for wading through puddles, no?

They say real Seattleites don’t use umbrellas, but who are they anyway and what do they know? Peter Miller sells umbrellas that win design competitions, and nearby at Fancy they stock cute ones. And then, we’ve always loved the rain hats, coats, and colorful umbrellas at Tuuli.

Good luck to you out there. Stay dry.

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Tags: Filson

Retail News

Big in Japan

Filson sets up shop in Osaka, Japan

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Mar 18, 2010 at 08:15AM Speech Bubble 1 Comments

Photo: Filson

Fiilson’s Yukon Wool Shooting Clays Coat: Watch for it this fall on the streets of Osaka

There’s one in SoDo. There’s one in Portland. There was one in Denver, but it didn’t work out so well. And as of March 9, there’s a Filson store in Osaka, Japan.

Japan has long had a hipster population that couldn’t get enough of Americana. Remember the 90s? Everyone knew someone who, after learning a few key Japanese phrases, got rich selling old Levis over the fledgling internet.

The trend lives on. The heritage brand thing is big at home, yeah, but, with a twelve-year history of great distribution via other retailers, Filson is huge in Japan.

I recently spoke with the company’s CEO, Bill Kulczycki, about the brand’s fashion ascendancy, its Gold Rush roots, and its first international store.

Foremost on my mind was how the Seattle-based company hopes to balance its growing number of Brooklyn-n-Ballard cool-kid type fans with its legion of hip wader-wearing hunting and fishing followers.

I figured I’d just go ahead and ask if the brand’s execs had found themselves sitting around a board room going, ‘Well, what should we do about these hipsters?’

“The minute you start to say you’re cool, you’re not, so we’re not going there,” Kulczycki told me.

So that’s a no, they’re not going to pull a Woolrich and hire an avant-garde Japanese designer to recut their clothes. But, he allows, they may continue to ‘adapt’ some of their looks not just for currency, but for younger, transitional clients beginning this fall.

It’s all part of what the ex-Patagonia exec and four-year Filson head calls a balancing act; remaining true to the outdoorsy types who use the product line to survive the elements while allowing the brand’s narrative to reach a larger, fashion-oriented audience. Both of whom, he wants to point out, place a premium on durability and quality goods.

Kulczycki is well aware that the story is getting out thanks, in large part, to two Seattle retailers with cult-like internet-based international followings. Both Totokaelo and Blackbird have been front runners in mixing field jackets with edgy, arty style.

Will they team up with, say, J.Crew to reach an even broader demographic?

Grandpa brands are big with the national style chains these days; Urban Outfitters sells Red Wing chukas and J.Crew serves as a rather unnecessary middleman between you Quoddy, the super-niche handmade, heirloom moccasin makers in Maine. Kulczycki won’t really say whether we can expect to see his company’s packer coats replacing Crew’s lookalikes, but concedes that if there is a customer who can’t otherwise access their product, those kinds of conversations may develop.

Something in the prideful, we-were-here-before-you-decided-we-were-cool region of my brain just doesn’t want to see Filson in that catalog (and if I catch you buying the brand via a national instead of a local, we’ll have to have words), but I’m not proud of it and it’s not necessarily a healthy, hometown-spirit attitude.

Sixty-five percent of Filson’s manufacturing is still done here in Seattle, (the Totokaelo link above illustrates that) and Kulczycki calls that made-in-Seattle mindset a core value of his company. Actually, he says the fabrication probably couldn’t be done elsewhere. His factory works with super-heavy materials and specialty hardware, and many of his employees have been at it for 15 or 20 years. It just wouldn’t make sense to pick up and start over somewhere new.

Photo: Filson

Inside Osaka’s Filson shop

So what’s good for the J.Crew customer, and the Japanese raw-denim and shooting shirt- wearing hipster, is good for Seattle’s economy.

Win and win.

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Tags: Locally Made, Accessories, Filson, Heritage Brands, Locally Designed, Seattle Menswear, Blackbird

Scene

True Story

An open reply to the MN reader who sent me an email asking, “What should I wear when I’m in Seattle?”

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jan 26, 2010 at 08:00AM Speech Bubble 1 Comments

Photo: Melissa O'Hearn for Seattle Met Style Counsel page

Maresa Patterson, this month’s Style Counsel subject. On-trend, organic, and locally made. This is what Seattle looks like. Sometimes. Other times, it doesn’t look like this at all.

Dear Visitor,

Thank you for your kind note regarding the dress code of our city. Your inquiry shows a kind of humble respect that I sometimes fear American travelers have abandoned. You know, the kinds of travelers who venture to seaside South American cities without learning simple phrases like, “Me gustaría pagar con tarjeta de crédito.” So kudos to you, Visitor, for asking.

People around here do like to question the nature of Seattle style. I suppose every city has its version of this topic. Maybe. But maybe not. Do they, in New York, trouble over the essential nature of their civic wardrobe? I guess I kinda think not. But then, that’s one of the luxuries of being a New Yorker. A cool nonchalance comes with the area codes.

The simple fact is that, for seven or eight months out of the year, rain and drizzle come with our area code, and that pervasive dampness does, in fact, color our collective look. And — and I appreciate this — our out-of-the-way station allows us freedom from playing the sartorial hero. What I mean is: As a rule, Seattleites don’t twist their ankles stepping around mud puddles in high suede heels or delicate calfskin oxfords in January. We wear solid but beautiful European-made boots and classic Red Wings. We pretty much live in boots, all made for walking. (If you think San Fran is hilly, call me after you’ve given us a try.)

And the thing is this, Visitor: They wear the sensible look in Italy, too. The whole heritage brand thing? Tough-to-impossible to pull off without a key piece or two from Filson, the timeless gear and clothing company of pioneering Seattle hipstsers since 1850.

So, you know, did we take it from them or did they take it from us? I mean, really. People around here get annoyed when you invoke the G word too often, so I will, for the most part, leave that topic where it last leapt up and demanded to be noticed, but let’s just say that we’ve already been co-opted at least once.

Still, what you’ve heard about fleece, Gortex, and Birkenstocks is true. Socks and sandals. Guilty. I mean—not personally, but it happens. Boy does it happen. Even at this time of year. On a recent sunny but sharp, bitter-cold post-holiday afternoon, I saw a mailman in short pants, socks (the kind they make those monkeys out of), and Teva sandals. Not a proud moment. Or one I could wrap my head around.

Sometimes bad things — or at least really … different things happen to good people. Even in Seattle. And sometimes, as Adam Sinding of Le 21eme Arrondissement is fond of documenting, Seattleites do show up in studded stilleto boots, cuffed, cropped pants, and directional trenches.

It’s important that you know that we don’t walk around in yellow slickers underneath umbrellas all the time. In fact, it’s almost as if the degree to which we really feel we’re O.G. Seattle, we wear layers and layers of knits and biker jackets instead of Outdoor Research rain gear. Cashmere, wool, and cotton knits work for four-seasons in Seattle, so you’ll see a lot of them.

Then again, the archetypes don’t exist for nothing. Seattle-based sportswear company Eddie Bauer calls their guy the casual sportsman and you will see him and his female equivalent all over town.

It’s not for nothing that Bauer and other sportswear companies are based here in the Northwest, But neither do high-end, locally owned department stores like Butch Blum and Mario’s as well as smart, innovative, globally bookmarked online boutiques exist in some vacuum without us locals.

I suppose the question isn’t very easy to answer. Or so it would seem by this long-winded, back and forth reply. We are very much a city of contradictions. In a good way.

Geographically isolated, yes, to some degree, but our population is anything but homogeneous. We love that certain elements of our culture - our approach to food, wine, and dining for one, our cutting edge technology for another - give us Big City cred all over the world, but we cherish the small-town vibe of our neighborhoods and we fight to protect the integrity of the greenbelts and waterways that surround us.

Yes. Contradictions. Imports working on the casual software campuses in our suburbs wear Marni, and when our indie rock exports appear on late night television variety shows, they wear whatever they’ve been wearing for the last eleven days. We hold fast to ripped denim, old cowboy shirts, and eclecticism even as global luxury brands come to town and set up shop. We do sometimes wear jeans to the ballet, but only sometimes.

I like how Maresa Patterson, a local dress designer and style-maker featured in our February issue, puts it.

“There’s a willingness in Seattle to be casual and to combine things in quirky ways,” she told me. “I respond to that.”

I do, too, and I hope, Visitor, that you will also.

Sincerely,

Laura

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Tags: Seattle Style, Seattle Street Style, Style Counsel, reader mail, Filson, Heritage Brands, Grunge

Trending

I Died in the Wool

Are we talking about Rachel Zoe again? Not at all.

Posted by: Laura Cassidy on Jul 30, 2009 at 09:30AM Speech Bubble 3 Comments

Images from Opening Ceremony’s F/W09 look book

View Slideshow »

Pendleton blankets aren’t the last thing I’d expect to see in the August issue of Harper’s Bazaar, but I was pretty surprised, very pleasantly so, when it happened. Turns out a super chic international fashion house teamed up with the traditional Northwest mill for the fall/winter 09 season.

And I know: wool is not exactly what you want to think about today, but stay with me for just a few minutes here then you can get back to complaining about the heat.

The neutral-toned blankets with soft hits of cornflower blue, muted watermelon red, and Indian jewelry turquoise in the traditional Navajo patterns in Bazaar’s pages are part of Opening Ceremony’s fall collection. In addition to the blankets, the super-cool, conceptual, collaboration-obsessed (most famously: with Chloe Sevigny) line/store/experiment/world peace facilitator is doing skirts, shirts, jackets and other pieces in Pendleton wool.

I’m going to admit right here that reading the words ‘Pendleton for Opening Ceremony’ gave me a true thrill.

I love this recent return to all things traditional, classic, and American-made—better yet, of course, if we’re talking Northwest-made. The New York Times had a piece this fall about dressing like it’s 1920, and looking really cool while doing it. The Seattle bag maker CC Filson Co. was named checked—thrillling, again—along with other so-called heritage brands. There’s a bit of that in this month’s Meltdown Survival Guide (see Dress for Success for Less), too.

Make it a point to check out the Downtown Pendleton store, (go straight for the blanket selection; they make perfect wedding gifts) and consider studying Chihuly’s collection of genuine Native wovens, upon which the current trends are based. And in general, get used to buffalo plaid checks, the 80s Ralph Lauren prepster vibe and Top-Siders — looks like the classics are here to stay, at least for a little while longer.

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Tags: Filson

Wear What When

Filson’s New Guy on the Runway

Headlines: Filson Hires Richard Chai

Filson x Levi’s

Just Landed: Filson x Blackbird

Filson Warehouse Sale

Shopping Map: 18 Seattle Essentials

Trunk Show: New and Old Filson at the Road

Let It Rain

Big in Japan

True Story

I Died in the Wool

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