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Student Designer

No Fur for Art Institute Seattle

Local designer-in-training takes on Karl Lagerfeld.

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SLIDESHOW: Gahee Bae’s winning design, for which no animals were harmed.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

SLIDESHOW: Gahee Bae’s winning design, for which no animals were harmed.

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Bae says she used a foam-like material that’s typically used for flower arrangements as her fur alternative. She used about 30 of these foam pieces, wiring them together with thin, flexible wire that was inserted through and hidden inside the hood seam.

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Art Institute Seattle student Gahee Bae.

Fur is everywhere this season, but not everyone likes it.

The Humane Society of the United States teamed up with the Art Institutes for the seventh annual national Cool vs. Cruel fashion design competition; Korean-born former Dupont, Washington, resident and Art Institute Seattle senior Gahee Bae was named a finalist. She’ll represent our city in the final round in New York; the grand-prize winner will receive an expenses-paid, week-long internship in New York City with a celebrated designer from the panel of judges.

Bae and her fellow students were challenged to “creatively reinterpret and replace animal fur” on runway designs by Fendi, Alexander McQueen, Gucci, or Oscar de la Renta.

We’re hoping Bae will bring home top honors. We talked to her here about her design; click through the slideshow to see her work.

WWW: Which designer where you interpreting or redesigning as you approached this design contest? Why did you choose that particular look or designer?
Bae: I was interpreting Fendi’s fall 2011 ready-to-wear collection. The shape of the knee-length leather dress is bold and chic. The leather is held down with topstitches, which resulted in a structured design. Fur trims on the cape appear as if they were sliced open and collaged together to create the luxurious look. I wanted to take a different approach to this runway design and still create a luxurious design in an animal-friendly way.

What were your feelings about fur before this project began and did they change?
I was always against fur and leather because there are alternatives which can look and feel just like the real fur or leather. You don’t need to kill an innocent animal when there are alternatives.

Please describe the concept and most importantly the materials used in your design.
The vision for my animal-friendly creation is to raise awareness about cruelty of leather and fur and the abundance of humane alternatives. My black polyester and spandex mix dress gives the rich leather look and better, it is super stretchy for comfort and an animal was not harmed in the process.

I preferred to go with easy shapes and a less structured look to represent generosity and compassion toward animals. The dress was draped to the body so the knit could give its maximum performance. Nothing was topstitched down to achieve the natural flow and elegant look. I used foam craft material twisted together; this creates a faux-fur trim around the exaggerated hood.

What’s your goal as a designer? Where would you like to be in five years?
My goal as a designer is to satisfy my clients and share my vision for my designs with them. I would like to be part of a professional women’s wear product development team in five years.

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Tags: Art Institute Seattle

Local Designers

Art Institute Goes to Benaroya

Ludovic Morlot’s wife might have worn Valentino. Instead she wore Justin Bartle, a fashion design student from a small town near Mount Rainier.

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SLIDESHOW: The making of a gala gown—Art Institute style.

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SLIDESHOW: The making of a gala gown—Art Institute style.

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Bartle and Morlot discuss the design.

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Bartle and Morlot on opening night.

Who would you wear if your husband were debuting as the city’s new orchestra conductor? Rodarte? Chanel? Lanvin?

Ghizlane Morlot, wife of Ludovic Morlot, rang up the Art Institute of Seattle and requested that three students present gown ideas for the Seattle Symphony Opening Night Concert and Gala on September 17.

Justin Bartle, a Mineral, Washington native and fashion design bachelor of fine arts candidate expected to graduate in spring 2013, submitted the design that Mme. Morlot chose for the recent event.

Here, three questions with Bartle about the experience, and a brief slideshow that takes you from sketch to finery.

WWW: What did you know in terms of Mme. Morlot’s style and what she was hoping for in a gown?
Bartle: Well, when I think of the symphony, what comes to my mind is a classic hour glass silhouette. Mrs. Morlot wanted color, but not a more traditional red or black, so I made several sketches to show her my ideas and design.

What outside inspiration did you bring to the design. What did you want the gown to be “about.”
I wanted the gown to be the center of attention. The main idea was color. I selected this orange silk chiffon fabric that reminded me of a coral fish. It’s also a very on-trend color for the fall, and I’ve noticed couture gowns this shade. Then I decided to have several crystals on the top of the sweet heart style to make it more dramatic and classical.

Mme. Morlot had also requested that AI students style her. How did you want to complete the look?
I wanted the hair to be flowing like the gown itself. Otherwise, I left the styling to my fashion student collaborators, Kristine Mileson (fashion marketing, bachelor of science candidate, spring 2012) and Daniella Kirby (fashion marketing, bachelor of science candidate, summer 2011). Since there is beading on the dress and handbag, the jewelry is understated.

Who are your biggest design inspirations?
I adore Valentino. There is the most perfect craftsmanship in each of his couture gowns. He is one of my all-time favorite designers. My family is also a huge inspiration. My mom and dad have been very supportive with my career choice.

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Tags: Seattle Designer, Art Institute Seattle

A Sort of Homecoming: Logan Neitzel

The one-time Project Runway hopeful hosts a party at Sole Repair.

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Project Logan: New York-based Seattle native Logan Neitzel is baaaaaaaack (Tuesday, May 10).

Where: Sole Repair, 1001 E Pike St, Seattle

What: Art Institute alum and Project Runway star (at least in our opinion) Logan Neitzel is headed home to talk to students at his alma matter next week. After he tips his hat to their burgeoning dreams and tempers their highest hopes with (I’m guessing) stories about how the cruel world treats young designers, he wants to party with you, and maybe sell you some stuff, at Sole Repair on Capitol Hill.

The editor’s fav and NYFW vet brings with him a silent auction of exclusive designs, an opportunity to pre-order runway samples, and the chance to get inside some custom-printed T-shirts, collaborations between the designer and Inner City Empire.

DJ Spencer Moody brings the tunes from 6-8; he’s followed by DJ Mullet from 9-2.

Full bar, friends.

When: Tuesday, May 10; 5 to 8, all ages and 8 to 2, 21 and over

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Tags: Project Runway, Art Institute Seattle

Behind the Scenes: Logan Neitzel

Keeping it Seattle-y, but going super broodish and dark for New York Fashion Week.

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SLIDESHOW: Behind the scenes at Logan Neitzel’s Feb 12 New York Fashion Week presentation.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

SLIDESHOW: Behind the scenes at Logan Neitzel’s Feb 12 New York Fashion Week presentation.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

Part of the look of the show was a chartreuse green nail lacquer custom made for the designer, via a Seattle connection. Bumble and Bumble artists did the hair.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

Neitzel is known for working with leather, and for presenting a dramatic aesthetic.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

For more context on this type of aesthetic, check out the Paris fashion week shows currently in progress, and look for lines such as Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Damir Doma, and Gareth Pugh. Whether or not the looks in Neitzel’s Brood are the kind of thing you can imagine rocking at the Fremont Market, there’s an ever-growing faction of folks who can, and do.

Flashback to NYFW in February; we’ve got this seasons’ report from Seattle designer Logan Neitzel.

Though the Art Institute of Seattle grad now dwells completely in the realm of New York fashion (Vogue and WWD were both at his show, and some verrrry impressive names made some serious inquiries about styling the presentation for him), Neitzel and his formerly Seattle-based co-pilot, Rachelle Robinett, managed to include some Northwesterners in the making of his Fall 2011 show, which was called Brood.

(Let’s just pause there to reflect on the regional pastime of brooding, particularly when it’s 27 degrees a month before spring is due to spring.)

There’s Bainbridge Island native Jeffrey Shirbroun, who is Neitzel’s design assistant, one-time Seattleite Devin Doyle shot the show (his pictures are available on Neitzel’s site), and the nail color was a result of a connection with sometime-local Kate Pawlicki from Pulp Lab. The online retailer and pop-up shop pioneer arranged for Neitzel and his team to deliver the vibe of the collection to the lacquer makers at Strangebeautiful, who formulated a custom color for the day.

So: points for keeping it real.

Not that, technically speaking, Neitzel and co. need our approval on that end. The last year or so has been good to them. Features in mags such as Elle, Marie Claire, Numero, and Nylon are spreading the love. The web’s been good, too; Not Just a Label, a sort of online home for the avant-garde, is a big supporter, and the site’s online shop sells Logan Netizel alongside other examples of nihilistically sexy, vaguely Japanese-inspired, ancient-future fashion.

To go behind the scenes and watch the pre-show pomp and prep, access the slideshow here.

You can see images from the collection on the designer’s blog; subscribers to WWD can see the show on their site.

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Tags: Logan Neitzel, Project Runway, Art Institute Seattle

NYFW Report: Logan Neitzel

The Seattle native and former Project Runway contestant shares his NYFW success.

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Slideshow: Images of Logan Neitzel’s s/s 2011 collection from New York’s recent fashion week.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

Slideshow: Images of Logan Neitzel’s s/s 2011 collection from New York’s recent fashion week.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer
View Slideshow » Photo: Jeffrey Kilmer

The designer Logan Neitzel

Last we heard from Logan Neitzel, Vogue.com was into his leather goods. That was last spring. Last week, as New York Fashion Week was coming to a close, there was even better news from the former Art Institute of Seattle student and Project Runway alum.

Neitzel told me that when he showed his spring/summer 2011 collection, none other than Elle editors Anne Slowey and Kate Lanphear (aka La Lanphear, she of the most coveted cool in American fashion media) showed up to check it out, as did editors from Italian, French, Japanese, and Chinese Vogues. And the response was good. How good? Half of the collection — flip through the slideshow here to see what it’s all about — is currently in the possession of French Vogue, who are shooting it for a December editorial. That’s good.

Oh, and, the New York Times’ T Magazine has let the designer know of their plans to give his work some ink as well.

As you check out the slideshow, keep this in mind: A collection is more than clothes. The hair and makeup supply the mood behind the garments, and give the designer’s colors, shapes, cuts, and references some context. You’ll note that these images of Neitzel’s collection really have a solid narrative, cinematic feeling. That vibe has Seattleites behind it, too. Gene Juarez juarez/ style guru Charlie Perritt and his Identity team flew to New York to create the street urchin-in-Chanel lipstick look you’ll see here. Wait there’s more: Multi-talented Seattle-native Rachelle Robinett produced the whole genius thing.

We’re always psyched to see local minds creating waves out there in the world — and when they’re doing it with a nod to the nihilistic beauty of Rick Owens and the mystery and power of the future, so much the better.

You can purchase Neitzel’s dark and sexy designs at store.loganneitzel.com, at Eva in New York, and at farfetch.com

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Tags: Reality TV, Logan Neitzel, Art Institute Seattle

Slideshow: Red Recap

The long and short of this year’s Project Runway competition.

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Slideshow: When Nick Verreos is in town, and in red, you know what time it is.

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Slideshow: When Nick Verreos is in town, and in red, you know what time it is.

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

For the second year, the contest was held at the Fairmont Olympic in downtown Seattle

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The pre-show crew readies the holographic runway

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The hotel’s Spanish Ballroom makes a dramatic setting

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Stylists from Gene Juarez take input from the designers and are responsible for the hair and makeup

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This year’s host_ess_ was Poison Waters. Ms. Waters is shown here with Alysse Bryson and Dixie Duncan

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Judging the dresses this year were Nick Verreos, Seattle Met publisher Nicole Vogel, Luly Yang, Project Red Dress Creator-Producer Monir Zandghoreishi, Rose Dennis, Eduardo Khawam, and Jeffrey Campbell

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Models from Seattle Model’s Guild contribute to the success of the show

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Nick Verreos in front of the fashion illustrations – one for each designer – that were done by IADT faculty Malusa Pinto

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

On the runway: a dress by Seattle Central Community College’s Miriam Reynolds

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

IADT student Rebecca Beesley created this gown

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Gingerlyn Bellus from IADT designed and made this dress

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A look by WSU’s Alison Bottemiller

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Gown by New York Fashion Academy’s Molly Gwendolyn Griffith

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By Jason Arrington of New York Fashion Academy

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Justin Bartle’s (Art Institute) dress

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Dress by Washington State University student Shannon Miller

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Seattle Pacific University’s Jongeun Kim created this dress

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Central Community College’s Paige Sandilands with her design

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Seattle Pacific University’s Kelly Baker and her design

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

And the winner was: International Academy of Design and Technology student Rebecca Beesley

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Nick Verreos and 1st runner up, IADT student Gingerlyn Bellus with her design

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

Second runner up Jason Arrington

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

From left: IADT faculty Malusa Pinto (who did all the fashion illustrations); Project Red Dress 2010 winning dress, and designer Rebecca Beesley; Project Runway’s Nick Verreos; Project Red Dress creator/producer Monir Zandghoreishi; First runner up designer Gingerlyn Bellus, and her dress

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull

The judges spent time before the show inspecting the inner workings of each dress.

View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull
View Slideshow » Photo: Barbie Hull
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Thanks to all the talented young designers who participated in this year’s Project Red Dress!

They had less than a day, less money than the average special-event outfit costs to buy off the rack, and a lot of pressure. On June 4, eleven regional design students competed in the third annual Project Red Dress competition. If you missed it, keep reading.

This year’s contestants were from International Academy of Design Technology (IADT), Seattle Central Community College, New York Fashion Academy, Washington State University, the Art Institute Seattle, and Seattle Pacific University; as is the tradition, they were sequestered at IADT for about sixteen hours as they constructed their bid for the most glamorous, directional, design-savvy, and relevant red dress.

There’s a lot of stake: Winners receive a $3,000 scholarship, a three-month internship with Luly Yang, and a window displaying their gown in her iconic Fourth Ave shop. The winning design will also be featured in Seattle Met.

The American Heart Association has plenty to gain, too: all proceeds from the event benefit this important non-profit.

Enough already, though, huh? Check out the slideshow to see this year’s entries, and this year’s lucky winner.

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Events

Seattle’s Next Top Designer

Bravo’s The Fashion Show is holding auditions at the Art Institute on Saturday

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You: An aspiring, inspired, and talented designer with a gift for gab, a face for cable, and a catchy phrase or two in your back pocket. (You must also be 21 years of age or older.)

Them: Producers of the Isaac Mizrahi-hosted Fashion Show on Bravo (you know, it’s the one that replaced that other fashion design reality show).

Why: The coveted spots on next season’s show won’t fill themselves.

Where: The Art Institute, North Campus, 5th Floor, 2600 Alaskan Way (Corner of Alaskan Way & Vine St.), Seattle

When: 10a-6p

What else: Applicants must bring a portfolio of their work, three articles of clothing that they have created and which best showcase their designs, a current resume, one piece of government-issued photo ID, a non-returnable photo of themselves, and a completed application form.

FOR MORE INFORMATION and TO DOWNLOAD THE APPLICATION, go to www.BravoTV.com/casting.

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Events

Student Bodies

Catching the up-and-comers on their way up

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Slideshow: The Art Institute Seattle fashion show

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Slideshow: The Art Institute Seattle fashion show

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist
View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designs by Brenda Hawley

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designs by Brenda Hawley

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look by Alice Li

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look by Alice Li

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Alexandra Hartle’s look on the runway

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Leila Smith

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look by Cindy Marlatt

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look by Cindy Marlatt

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look by Cindy Marlatt

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designs by Michelle Williams

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look: Michelle Williams

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

This look: Michelle Williams

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Designer: Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist
View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist
View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Isaiah Whitmore

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Alexandra Hartle

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Cindy Marlatt

View Slideshow » Photo: Andria Lindquist

Alice Li

Among the worthwhile opportunities to watch tall, thin people walk down raised platforms: Design school runway shows. Combine the community spirit of a college football game with the what-will-they-think-of-next anticipation of Project Runway and belt the whole thing with that youthful sense of edge-n-harmony, and you’re there. I happened to miss the recent Art Institute Seattle show at Sodo Showbox, but lucky for me and you, Andria Lindquist didn’t. She’s sharing her photos of the event with us in the slideshow here.

If you’re inspired, consider getting over to Ballard this Saturday night, April 10. The New York Fashion Academy at 5201 Ballard Ave NW is hosting two shows, one at 7p and one at 9p, for this year’s crop of designer hopefuls. You might remember that a little over a year ago I called NYFA the winningest design school in town. Its students do have quite a knack for scoring big in local design competitions like the Seattle Met-sponsored Project Red Dress. Tickets for the NYFA show are $25 at the door or $20 via Brown Paper Tickets.

Feeling it?

Check back on last year’s AI student show here.

Get ready for this year’s FACE fashion show, staring looks from Barneys New York here.

Revisit an interview with former AI student Logan Neitzel from last season’s Project Runway here.

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Tags: Seattle Fashion Show, Art Institute Seattle

One Size Fits Most

Peace, Love, and Happiness for Michelle Lateste

The Art Institute’s Next Project Runway Star

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Who knows if Project Runway will ever again claim your Wednesday nights (or Thursday or whenever); you’ve been watching, and waiting, and waiting and watching, for something to happen, I know. Let’s just hope it doesn’t become, as producer Harvey Weinstein suggested, a radio broadcast. (Yeah, I want to hear designers conceptualize an outfit based on the Honda Fit.) However, if a team of producers comes through town to interview potential guinea pigs for another season, they’ll want to make time to see Michelle Lateste.

Lateste scooped her Art Institute classmates at last Thursday’s Peace, Love, and Happiness runway show at Showbox Sodo by winning two awards. Her collection of peachy-cream and mauve, draped and/or highly structured mini-skirts and barely-there tops earned her the “Next Project Runway Star” award, and a elegantly bubble-hemmed, floor-length, tastefully embellished - if a little literal - Peacock Dress took home “Best Couture Garment.”

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Closeup

Now, it’s only fair of me to say that one of the looks Lateste sent down the runway was a direct homage to Leanne Marshall, the (at the time) Portland-based PR winner from last season. “A direct homage” might be slightly generous. The many-petaled skirt could not have been more influenced by Leanne’s own wavy, prism-like, geometric skirt and indeed it must have been a straight-forward attempt to try out some of Leanne’s techniques. I didn’t get the chance to ask her, but I can only assume that if she entered the look in her school show, she knew everyone would draw the same conclusion and she was okay with that. I think, and my fellow judges agreed (among them Seattle Models Guild booker Andrew Burkhardt and Gisella from Ragamoffyn’s), that the bottom line is: She’s a student, and she did a beautiful job imitating a complicated idea, and an equally beautiful job creating complementary and complex looks to go along with it. Even from our front-row perch, the other judges and I could tell that her garments were very well-made, and each had its own idea—it’s own little blend of flounce and architecture.

So maybe Leanne needs to keep an eye on Lateste. Maybe she needs to hire her. Either way, we’ll be watching her too.

(Photos here by Mark Best for the Art Institute.)

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