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Still Life

Lessons and Winners from Seattle’s First Ginvitational

A local gin aficionado wants to raise awareness of the best versions coming out of Oregon and Washington.

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Ginvitational

Ten judges. Thirteen gins. Six lessons.

On Friday afternoon, Seattle Gin Society founder Gene Shook convened a panel of judges, given the arduous task of blind tasting and rating 13 gins, most of them from Northwest microdistilleries. As we readied our pens and palates, Shook encouraged brutal honesty, reminding us that “Seattle nice isn’t necessary here.”

I was surrounded by people who know their stuff. People like Big Derby Distilling Co. owner Jason Parker, and Skip Tognetti of Letterpress Distilling (whose leterpressed business card is more elegant than my wedding invitations). And bartenders like Anu Apte of Rob Roy and Andrew Friedman from Liberty. These folks make gin or use it in the course of their professional duties, though none of the participating distillers had any bottles being judged. The juniper-flavored spirit has proliferated at local distilleries, many of which are glad for a product to sell while whiskey or bourbon age to readiness. But can these newcomers measure up to the classics in the gin canon? Here are a few pieces of insight gleaned from an afternoon of tasting and judging with the pros.

It’s hard to pass a uniform judgement on gin. How do you compare a dry creation perfect for a martini with another, more floral version begging to be incorporated into a cocktail? Unlike its darker contemporaries, gin has very few defining characteristics other than its juniper backbone.

Get your nose in there. A dignified sniff from three inches above the official Ginvitational shot glass didn’t yield nearly as many notes as a deep inhalation with nostrils firmly inside the glass.

Even the pros can be surprised. In a room full of people who make or sling gin for a living, judges were surprised by how high—or low—they rated a few familiar labels in the blind tasting.

We are aesthetically hard to please. Judges were rather merciless when evaluating the packaging, deeming some labels too cluttered, others too subtle, making it tough to identify a particular gin on crowded shelf. Speaking of which…

Bartenders have strong opinions on bottles, not just their contents. Apte and Friedman had a lot to say about bottles that are too tall to fit on a shelf, as well as versions with unconventional shapes that take up too much space. Bottles with low, squatty necks may look cool, but can make for an awkward grab and pour during a busy shift.

Like any micro-batch product, locally produced gins can vary by batch. Okay, maybe that last one is obvious to everyone else.

The Seattle Gin Society’s inaugural Ginvitational was held Saturday at Cal Anderson Park. Ginophiles and members did some tasting of their own, and by the end of the day Shook was ready to declare the winners. Hopefully next year a local gin will best the Brits.

The 2012 Ginvitational Winners

Best Gin: Martin Miller Westbourne Strength
Best Northwest Gin: Captive Spirits Big Gin
Best Washington Gin: Batch 206 Counter Gin
Best Oregon Gin: Smalls
Judges’ Award: Sun Liquor’s Gun Club
Members’ Choice: Citadelle
President’s Choice Washington: Sound Spirits Ebb and Flow
President’s Choice Oregon: Organic Nation

Judges’ Honorable Mention: Oola

Highest Score: Martin Miller’s Westbourne Strength with an 8.6

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Tags: Gin, Still Life, Ginvitational

Still Life

A Big “Well Done” to Washington Distilleries

Two local purveyors of craft booze bring home a well-respected industry award.

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Proofing at Sidetrack Distillery
Photo from Facebook

Winners of the American Distilling Institute’s Sixth Annual Judging of Artisan American Spirits were recently announced in Louisville, Kentucky. What’s that, you ask? For distillers, it’s one of the most well-respected awards events in the world of craft distilling.

Each year, more than 200 American distilleries submit their wares for judging. While medalists walk away with proof that their product is among the finest in the nation, nonmedalists go back to the proofing room with some good experience under the belt and a little exposure.

Washington is a relatively new state in the distilling game, but our local craft distilleries seem to hold their own. Dry Fly Distillery and San Juan Island Distillery have both medaled at the American Distilling Institute’s event in the past. This year, Sidetrack Distillery in Kent won a gold for its raspberry liqueur. Also, nestled away on the narrow that enters Samish Island, Golden Distillery took home both the gold and the silver in the malt whiskey category—find the winning bottles at the distilleries or at liquor stores.

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Tags: Still Life

Still Life

Woodinville Whiskey Co. Releases Its First Rye Whiskey

While the rye will be a distillery mainstay, the first batch is bound to go fast.

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Woodinvillerye

The spirit that will be one of the distillery’s main products debuts April 14. Photo via Facebook.

Woodinville Whiskey Co. is about to debut another product that justifies the use of an alarm clock on a Saturday morning. On April 14, owners Orlin Sorensen and Brett Carlile will release a rye whiskey, being billed as the first rye produced (legally, anyway) in Washington since Prohibition.

The distillery opens at 7am on the 14th and will be selling 750mL bottles for $50, with a limit of two per person. The first 100 people who show up and stand in line will be rewarded with a Woodinville Whiskey Co. beanie, and coffee will be flowing freely.

The rye will be one of Woodinville’s core products, along with bourbon, says Sorensen. While this first batch is likely to sell out fast, other batches will be released in the coming months. The distillery released its first aged spirits, a bourbon and an American whiskey, back in November, and Sorenson says they sold the entire run of about 4,000 bottles in a few short weeks. The guys are still busy bottling, so Sorensen didn’t have any specific numbers on the rye release, but he estimates it will be about the same size.

Sorensen says the nation is also experiencing a shortage of rye whiskey—another factor that might have people lining that morning. Demand has grown exponentially in recent years, he says, “and distilleries just didn’t have any aging inventory; it was a niche product.”

These days rye is the go-to whiskey for Manhattans and a host of other craft cocktails. “I think people are gravitating toward flavor in general,” says Sorensen. “The rye has more character, more complex more flavor.”

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Tags: Whiskey, Distilling, Woodinville Whiskey Co., Still Life

Still Life

A Visit to Ballard’s Captive Spirits

A local bartender and third-generation distiller must wait until June 1 to sell his Big Gin on site.

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Captive Spirits’ Big Gin can be found in limited releases at a few local bars, but you have to wait till June 1 to buy your own bottle.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

Captive Spirits’ Big Gin can be found in limited releases at a few local bars, but you have to wait till June 1 to buy your own bottle.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

Shipwreck Design, the local team of Chris Jordan and Megan Leedom, did the excellent design work for Captive Spirits’ bottle labels, business cards, and more.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

The lab where Capdevielle and co. test recipes. Through rounds upon rounds of blind taste testing, the crew eventually came up with a recipe that was consistently picked in the top three, and that’s what you’ll get now if you ask for a Big Gin martini or tonic.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

A plush armchair sits watch over the 100-gallon copper and stainless steel pot still from Vendome. The garage doors roll up to reveal Captive Spirits’ water-storage tanks (the distillery recycles water for the condenser), and a parking lot that will play host to guests during the June 2 party.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

The Vendome still is open-fired, which means it stands above a burner and the liquid inside is directly heated by an open flame. Capdevielle says they wanted to minimize initial overhead and then expand as the business grows, thus the relative simplicity of the set-up.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

Well-known Kentucky still maker Vendome provided Captive Spirits with its 100-gallon pot still.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

Captive Spirits filters its water down to zero parts-per-million to ensure that it doesn’t affect Big Gin’s taste. It also means there’s incredibly tasty water lying around when someone gets thirsty.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

Captive Spirits had just recently finished distilling a batch of gin, these two carboys hold 60 bottles worth. Capdevielle also pointed out that it is an air-powered distillery, using compressed air to blow particulates out of bottles, and a diaphragm pump to move spirits around.

View Slideshow » Photo: Brian Colella

Robinson started this chalk drawing of the Big Gin logo on the chalkboard by the doorway. Keep an eye on the Captive Spirits Twitter feed to find out when and where you can try Big Gin, available for sale at the distillery starting June 1.

Visitors enter Captive Spirits through an unassuming side door of a nondescript building just off 15th in Ballard; the first thing you might notice is the baby in proximity to the booze. "It’s the most ‘ma and pa’ distillery in town,” says Ben Capdevielle. He doesn’t necessarily mean the fact that his daughter Stella hangs out with him most days at the distillery, but her presence drives the point home.

Capdevielle, a longtime bartender at spots including La Isla, King’s Hardware, and Seatown, continues a family tradition. His grandfather distilled Templeton Rye during the Prohibition Era, and Capdevielle’s father passed along the enthusiasm for spirits. The younger Capdevielle started Captive Spirits with fiancée Holly Robinson, who does events for Bastille and previously worked for Tom Douglas. The third partner, Todd Leabman, is a builder who handles the team’s bookkeeping and navigates Captive Spirits through myriad bureaucratic hurdles.

Currently, production is focused on Big Gin, which can only be found in limited release at local bars. If you want a personal bottle you have to wait until June 1. Captive Spirits, though tiny, is not licensed as a craft distillery, which means no tasting room, and currently no sales except to bars, restaurants, or liquor stores. The state will still do special orders if there’s a buyer, so Capdevielle hopes one of the nearby Ballard stores will partner up with him prior to the June 1 deadline.

This is where the craft license’s 51-percent-locally-sourced rule for ingredients gets controversial. Gin is made by distilling high-proof ethyl alcohol with juniper and other botanicals, and juniper is not something that Washington does well. And unless you distill your own pure grain alcohol, you have to import that, too. Rum, which uses sugar cane, is a no-no as well.

The owners chose to forego the craft license in favor of finding the best ingredients possible, particularly a base spirit that wouldn’t adversely affect the taste. Big Gin starts from a corn-based 190-proof alcohol from Kentucky and is made with traditional gin ingredients (it’s an “Old World” gin, designed to be tasted, not hidden, when mixed).

Capdevielle and Robinson are so enthusiastic about Big Gin that you almost believe that’s all they want to make. When asked about future plans, though, Robinson mentioned an aperitif and, no surprise, whiskey. Robinson called whiskey their passion, which makes sense given Capdevielle’s family history. The overall plan is start small (low overhead) and grow slowly, so those expansions are a ways away.

If you’re planning a visit to Captive Spirits, consider June 2, when Robinson will pull together food, drink, and live music for a release party celebrating open season on sales to the general public. Hit up the slideshow above for more info on the Ballard microdistillery, and learn more about other local distilleries right over here.

Captive Spirits Distilling, 1518 NW 52nd Street Ste A, Ballard, 206-852-4794; captivespiritsdistillery.com

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Tags: Distillery Report, Distilling, Oola Distillery, Still Life, Captive Spirits, Ben Capdevielle

Still Life

Sound Spirits Takes On Aquavit

Coming soon to Interbay: Scandinavia’s water of life.

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Aquavit

The official label, newly approved by the federal government.

Take heed, Norse-inclined drinkers: Sound Spirits founder Steven Stone says he is preparing to bottle an aquavit that should be for sale by March. A Ballard resident who happens to like the Scandinavian liquor himself, Stone promises to have plenty on the shelf before the neighborhood’s Syttende Mai celebration in May.

I posed an embarrassingly basic question to Stone, whose Interbay distillery was the first to open in Seattle after craft distilling became legal (again) in Washington in 2008: How, technically, does one define aquavit? Much like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart and obscenity, I just know it when I see it. Or, more specifically, when that first rye-bread like whiff hits your nose as you lift an icy glass of the stuff.

According to both Stone and the federal government, aquavit must have caraway as the dominant flavor, often followed closely by dill. The distiller has been working on his recipe for four years, adapting a traditional Scandinavian recipe into something that tends toward the complex edge of the aquavit spectrum. The flavorings, he says, include caraway, coriander, dill, anise, and fennel: “It’s balanced; they play together and nothing overwhelms the other.”

Sound Spirits will produce its aquavit all year, but only about 100 bottles a month. Hence you’ll only find it at the tasting room, and perhaps at a few select aquavit-appropriate bars, like Ballard’s Copper Gate, which has an entire menu of cocktails featuring various aquavits. He’s also considering doing an aged version in the future.

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Tags: Distillery Report, Sounds Spirits, Still Life, Steven Stone

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