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Behind the Beer

A Few Questions for Kayle Thompson: The Sultana of Suds, The Matriarch of Mash, The Baroness of Brew

What to call the Brave Horse Tavern’s new beer woman?

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“Oh, hi. I’ll just be drinking on the kegs if you need me.” Photo courtesy of Team Brave Horse

As busy servers wrapped silverware and polished glasses, preservice at the Brave Horse Tavern, Kayle Thompson pulled a single can of beer from her purse and handed it to the barman to keep so general manager Scott Whited can sample it. “Don’t drink it,” she instructs the middleman.

The beer, a Caldera IPA, is one that Thompson picked up from the little beer store by her house in Fremont. Thompson, ever the sampler, doesn’t usually buy beer more than once, but she’s taken a shine to the IPA from Ashland, Oregon, buying two six-packs. Beer enthusiasts take a tip; this woman is new to the game, but she knows her stuff.

When Warren Peterson, ex-chef and “beer czar” at Tom Douglas’s beer-focused Brave Horse Tavern, left for Elliott Bay Brewing Company, Thompson took over his post. I asked her about landing the position; she chalks it up to good timing and good luck. I think she had it coming.

“I don’t think Scott knows this,” Thompson says, “but the first thing I did when I heard Warren was leaving was print my resume and run down the hill from Lola (where she was working at the time) to Etta’s. They were closed for a staff meeting, so I stood outside, resume in hand, hopeful.”

Before landing this job, Thompson enjoyed drinking a beer or two with Peterson, but beer exploration happened mostly on her own time. While her resume lists server stints at a few T. Doug places and elsewhere, she’s young, enthusiastic, and has a lot to learn and a lot to gain from her new position. “She’s already kicking ass,” says Brave Horse marketing manager Amy Richardson. And no doubt she’ll continue. But somehow it just doesn’t feel right to call her the new beer czar. Isn’t the beer czar Peterson? And isn’t this Thompson’s time to shine?

She could be called the sultana of suds, the baroness of brew, or the matriarch of mash, perhaps. Whatever her title, Thompson is poised to be an influential figure in Seattle’s ever-expanding beer community, overseeing Brave Horse’s impressive beer list and wrangling the full calendar of beer and brewer events at Douglas’s Amazonia gastropub.

Here, a few questions for Kayle Thompson.

Tell me a little bit about the Brave Horse beer list: its strengths, how you made your selections, how its organized?

The biggest strength of our list is its size. We have 22 handles at Brave Horse, 20 of which rotate on a regular basis. We are very spoiled to have that type of flexibility and the room to have something that pleases every palate. Scott, our general manager, and I sit down once a week to talk about and choose beer for the upcoming weeks. Picking our list is really a team effort; I get ideas for new beers from servers, bartenders, and guests on a regular basis. Our draft list is organized primarily by style, which makes it easy to pinpoint beers to suit your mood.

What is your most popular beer, and what beer do you wish people ordered more of?

The beer we sell the most of is our Brave Horse Ale, which is made for us by Schooner Exact. It is our only permanent handle. I’m extremely happy that our guests enjoy this beer as much as we do. I wish people would order more beers available by the bottle. Some of our more eclectic beers are only available in a bottle format, but they are in no way worth overlooking!

What is your favorite Seattle bar? Why?

For beer I love drinking at Quinn’s, The Dray, and Beveridge Place. Quinn’s always has a solid list and their staff is incredibly knowledgeable. I love sitting at the bar there because I learn something new about beer or spirits every time. Beveridge Place and The Dray are both comfortable, laid back bars with awesome lists. It’s like drinking in my living room, but better.

What’s your beer of choice these days?

Recently I’ve been drinking a bunch of Caldera IPA out of Ashland, Oregon and Idiot Sauvin from Elysian’s Manic series, but my beer of choice changes daily. I’m always looking for something new that I haven’t tried before.

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Tags: Five Questions for the Bartender, Brave Horse Tavern, Brave Horse Tavern, Shift Change, Kayle Thompson

Shift Change

Where’s Waldo Ian Cargill?

Spoiler alert: This talented barkeep is now at Vito’s and Tini Bigs.

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Ian Cargill, here lending a hand at Where Ya At Matt’s gospel brunch. Photo by Naomi Bishop via WYAM.

Tracking the whereabouts of Seattle’s peripatetic bartenders should have a blog and Twitter feed all its own. Or, as Hanna Raskin put it, “I feel like we’re rapidly approaching drafts and salary caps.” But a bartender who is prolific with the classics and has a talent for booze creativity is a beautiful thing, and plenty of drinkers out there choose their watering holes based on the person behind the bar rather than the name on the door.

Today’s update: Ian Cargill, former lead bartender at Tavern Law and most recently at the Trophy Room at Shorty’s has two new gigs. One, noted here, is Tini Bigs, where you’ll find the barman on Sunday and Monday nights and dispensing classic cocktails during new Mad Men episodes. Cargill’s second new gig is at Vito’s, starting this weekend.

Vito’s manager Justin Gerardy sent around a note last night saying that the First Hill icon “has been re-opened for almost exactly a year and a half this week and we’re celebrating by hiring one of our favorite bartenders.” Cargill will be in the well Tuesdays and Saturdays.

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Tags: Seattle Bartenders, Vito's, Shift Change, Ian Cargill, Shift Change, Tini Bigs

Shift Change

Evan Martin Steps in at Chino’s

Veronika Groth heads to Artusi, but not before securing a very talented replacement.

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The new bar manager heading up Chino’s tiki program knows his way around a tropical-inspired drink. Photo via Facebook.

Veronika Groth left her post as Poppy’s longtime bar manager late last year to create the half-tiki, half-classic cocktail list for Pike/Pine newcomer Chino’s. What she learned along the way: She likes rum, but it isn’t the spirit that makes her toes curl.

“She beefed up on it for the tiki thing ,” says Chino’s owner Mari Tiscareno Lee. “But when it comes down to it, she really likes bitters.”

Today is Groth’s final day at Chino’s; tomorrow she moves a few blocks away to Artusi to join her former Poppy colleague Jason Stratton. She missed the deeper, richer flavors of spirits like amaro, she says. But Groth says she didn’t want to leave until she found just the right replacement for Chino’s, which opened in early December with a street food–inspired menu that’s Mexican and Taiwanese by way of Los Angeles.

She found him in Evan Martin, who, um, recently became available. Martin has spent the past week working with Groth and is planning to introduce his own cocktail menu. And this time it’s all tiki, all the time.

“We’re ready to do it, go full-on tiki,” says Lee. Martin’s background at places like Chantanee in Bellevue, makes him highly qualified to captain that switch. Seriously, the man created a riff on planter’s punch that was deemed the official drink of Tales of the Cocktail 2010. His list will blend tiki classics like the Mai Tai and Don the Beachcomber with some of Martin’s own tiki-inspired creations.

Meanwhile, Groth and Martin have been busy collaborating on a recipe for Seattle Met’s sold-out Bloody Mary showdown this Sunday. Groth plans to return to Chino’s for some guest bartending stints, and Lee pretty much rained down praise on the woman who inaugurated the restaurant’s well-regarded bar program. And now, Seattle has itself a full-on dedicated tiki menu. And another reason to drink at Artusi.

Side note: Hugo Kugiya’s Crosscut piece on Chino’s is definitely worth a read.

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Tags: Seattle Bartenders, Evan Martin, Shift Change, Chino's, Veronika Groth, Shift Change, Artusi

Shift Change

New Bar Manager at MistralKitchen

Matt Bailey arrives from Venik to take over William Belickis’s cocktail program.

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Today marks the official debut of both the new bar manager and his 10 new season-appropriate cocktails. Photo by Andrew Waits.

South Lake Union restaurant MistralKitchen has a new bar manager. According to the release sent out this morning, chef-owner William Belickis has hired Matt Bailey to carry on the thoughtful cocktail program begun by Andrew Bohrer when the restaurant opened in 2010 (and carried on by a few others).

Bailey, according to the restaurant, has worked previously at highly legit local cocktail destinations such as Liberty, Barrio and Needle and Thread. His most recent post was just a few blocks away at Venik, the bar known for both its cocktails and its handy adjacency to Russian bathhouse-spa Banya 5.

Mistral’s rep kept mum on the new bar manager’s identity for a few weeks, giving Bailey time to launch his own cocktail menu, which includes a few vodka-based nods to his previous gig. Any time I have talked to a new hire at MistralKitchen, he or she has expressed excitement about being let loose in a kitchen full of gadgets, ovens, and other culinary playthings. One new arrival on the drink list, a ginger caipirinha, includes fresh ginger cooked sous vide along with Brazilian sugarcane-based spirit cachaca.

Both Bailey and his 10 new drinks make their official debut today.

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Tags: Mistralkitchen, Shift Change, Matt Bailey

Shift Change(s)

Evan Martin No Longer at Ba Bar

Hanna Raskin chronicles another round of drama at the Vietnamese restaurant’s beautiful back bar.

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Owner Eric Banh is bringing in a consultant to direct proceedings at the bar. Photo: Geoffry Smith via Ba Bar.

Seattle Weekly critic Hanna Raskin jolted us all back into the workweek with a drama-fied tale of a public altercation over the weekend between Ba Bar owner Eric Banh and now-former bar manager Evan Martin. You can read the full account on Voracious, but the upshot: Martin is no longer behind the bar at the popular 12th Avenue restaurant and Banh is planning to bring in a consultant to work with the remaining bar staff.

This isn’t the first time a bar manager at Ba Bar has departed under dramatic circumstances. Just weeks after the restaurant opened last summer, Banh ushered original bartender Daniel Jeffers out the door after his resume didn’t check out, replacing him with Martin.

Per Raskin, Chef Kevin Burzell has also submitted his resignation, but he’s gearing up to open a Malaysian food truck.

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Tags: Shift Change, Ba Bar

Shift Change

Roster Changes at Rob Roy

Andrew Bohrer’s day job means Philip Trickey is back behind the stick.

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Philip Trickey is back at Rob Roy on Friday nights.

Let’s count down to the weekend with personnel matters at one of Seattle’s most talent-packed bars, shall we? Well known writer-barman Andrew Bohrer, he of the cocktail cartography, booze blogging, and entertainingly ranty Twitter feed, is stepping away from the bar to become spirits director for Vinum Importing. Bohrer was the man who made Seattle (and the country at large) sit up and take notice of MistralKitchen’s bar program, but most recently he’s been tending at Rob Roy on Friday nights.

The timing worked out nicely, because Philip Trickey, an early hire by Rob Roy owner Anu Apte, was looking to pick up more shifts as he returned from paternity leave. Trickey spends the rest of his week at Purple Cafe and Wine Bar, but a night a week at a more classic spot, he says, helps him retain his edge. His first shift back at Rob Roy is February 17.

Bohrer hasn’t given up bartending entirely. When Vessel reopens in its new location in the next few months, he plans to work a monthly. He also has a book in the works.

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Tags: Rob Roy, Shift Change, Andrew Bohrer, Philip Trickey

Shift Change

Hey, Cicchetti Has a New Bartender

Tango’s Kate Perry heads to Eastlake’s cocktail and snack spot.

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It won’t be difficult to spot Kate Perry behind the bar at Cicchetti: She’s the one who’s not a guy.

Cicchetti, boozy sibling to Serafina in Eastlake, has a new bartender in the (highly talented) lineup. The Italian cocktail and small plate destination sent along word that Kate Perry, currently tender of the bar at Tango, will be spending her Thursday and Friday nights behind the bar at Cicchetti. She’ll reportedly keep a few shifts over at Tango, the Latin-styled lair of beautiful people at the foot of Capitol Hill.

Cicchetti general manager Rachel Aiken also notes that Perry is a welcome female addition to the all-male bartending team. When you sidle in for a drink, don’t confuse her with the Kate Perry who is the partner at forthcoming Restaurant Bea in Madrona. And let’s not even make the all-too-obvious Katy Perry joke.

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Tags: Eastlake, Cicchetti, Shift Change, Kate Perry

Shift Change

A New Chef for Canon

Tavern Law’s Andrew Cross takes over, but the buns remain.

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Another departure from Tavern Law; a new food program at Canon.

Canon, a little bar on 12th Avenue that you’ve probably heard of, has a new chef. Per the Twitters, Andrew Cross arrived on Friday to take over the kitchen. He didn’t have far to move; Cross previously worked just up the street at Tavern Law, right up until the night before he reported for duty at his new job. Cross was, according to Canon owner Jamie Boudreau, the kitchen manager and lead cook over there. Before that, he worked in the kitchen at Canlis.

While Cross is still settling in, Boudreau says patrons can expect the menu to expand, change more frequently, and offer more specials and food pairings. He’s also hoping for more special dinners like Canon’s New Year’s Eve celebration and, as soon as it’s feasible, brunch.

“It’s our goal to have our guests talk about the food as much as they have our drinks,” says the barman, a lofty goal considering the roster of behind-the-bar talent, and the love that has rained down on Canon since it opened. Boudreau was also quick to note that the pork belly buns, an item so in demand at Canon that they are listed at the top of the menu inside a thick black box, aren’t going anywhere.

Boudreau says that Canon’s opening chef, Melinda Bradley, left to pursue another career, but he was “pleased with the direction that she has steered our ship.”

Cross isn’t the only Tavern Law alum that’s changed things up lately. Former lead bartender Ian Cargill now spends his weekends running the Trophy Room over at Shorty’s.

In totally unrelated (but still enjoyable) Canon news, partner Andrew Fawcett informed me that the bar called in a former BBC announcer to record its voice mail message. So next time you find yourself with a moment to spare during daytime hours, dial 206-552-9755 and revel in the fact that everything sounds more classy with a British accent.

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Tags: Jamie Boudreau, Tavern Law, Canon Seattle, Shift Change

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