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Oeno Files

Well-Priced Wines from a Seattle Expert

This week: Michael Teer of Pike and Western and Soul Wine.

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Need a bottle? This guy will never steer you wrong.

The expert
Michael Teer, owner of Pike And Western and Soul Wine.

The Cred
Michael Teer? Come on, man. The advice he doles out at Pike and Western, his den of potable treasures in Pike Place Market, has been saving Seattle dinner parties for the past 35 years. Seven months ago, Teer opened Soul Wine, his second shop, in the retail space below Serious Pie. If you see him, say hello. Then ask for a recommendation—Teer is every bit the unpretentious wine expert.

So what’s this week’s theme, Expert?
“Wines that will make your friends think you spent more than you did.”

Ooh, tricky. Why did you pick that theme?
“A frequent request from customers goes like this: ‘I am going to a friend’s house for dinner and want to bring a nice bottle of wine. I don’t want to spend a lot but I want something that is delicious and distinctive.’ I take great pleasure in finding wines under $20 that outperform their price point. Each of these is an estate-bottled wine, which means it is made where the grapes are grown, by the people that own the vineyard.”

Let’s do this thing.

The Red
2009 L’Ecuyer de Couronneau Bordeaux Superieur, France ($15) “Two thousand and nine was a great Bordeaux vintage, and it is through wines from small properties that most of us will be able to experience it. This 100-percent merlot (don’t even tell me you don’t like merlot until you taste it) is certified organic—unusual in Bordeaux—and it’s full of ripe but balanced fruit with a bit of structure to add character.”

The White
2009 Château de La Greffiere Macon La Roche Vineuse “Sous Le Bois’’ ($18) "White Burgundy is a favorite of mine, but it is not cheap…usually. This wine shows the richness and minerality of more prestigious appellations, and a surprising level of complexity for the price.”

The Rose
2010 Château du Rouët, Côtes de Provence, France ($15) “Provence makes some of the world’s best and most sought-after roses. This one is dry, with hints of dried fruit, spice, and minerals, and it’s beautifully balanced. When you drink it the sun will come out…somewhere.”

The Sparkler
2007 Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Saumur Rosé ($18) “Little is more festive than a glass of rose with bubbles. This sparkler from the Saumur region of the Loire Valley fills the bill quite nicely at only $18. It is 100-percent cabernet franc—full of snappy red fruits but also a surprising depth of flavor.”

Sounds delicious. Thanks for the recs, Michael. So how’d you end up with a life in wine?
“By the time I graduated from the University of Washington with a degree in editorial journalism, I had already started in the wine business. Neither the New York Times or the Seattle Times came calling, so my hobby became my vocation. I’ve never looked back.”

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Tags: South Lake Union, Wine, Pike Place Market, Well-Priced Wines from a Seattle Expert

Drinking Holidays

Bastille Day Celebrations Around Seattle

Oh, happy francophiles. Food and drink specials abound next Thursday, July 14.

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Fries

On Thursday, Seattle honors French Independence by eating lots of frites.

Photo: Bastille via Facebook

Can you picture a bunch of Parisians standing around the Weber on the fourth of July eating Oscar Mayers and potato salad, stars and stripes decorating their plastic cups of macro-brewed Colorado lager?

Me neither. Only in America do we so zealously celebrate other nations’ independence days as if they were our own. It’s kind of cute, when you think about it.

Here in Seattle, we are particularly fond of Bastille Day, or La Fete Nationale as it’s called in France. What we do is crowd into French cafes and restaurants, which then feed us discounted food and plenty of alcoholic beverage.

This Thursday, July 14 is Bastille Day 2011. Here are places to party like it was your people that overpowered the famous prison in 1789, closing the doors on Louis the 16th and the whole Ancien Regime thing.

Bastille in Ballard is opening up its beer garden starting at 4:30pm on Thursday. Pints of Kronenbourg are $3 and there will be oysters, charcuterie, and wine for $5. I’ve also heard tell of a bocce ball tournament.

Meanwhile, in Pike Place Market, there is Cafe Campagne and its famously festive Bastille Day party. Five dollar food specials include garlic sausage sandwiches, brie or ham en baguette, and the cafe’s always-amazing fries with aioli.

Le Pichet’s party runs from 6pm to midnight on Thursday and will include live music from Le Quartet (7-9pm) and Bastille-Day stalwarts The Djangomatics (10pm-midnight). Again, Parisian street food is on the menu. That menu isn’t quite finalized but owner Jim Drohman says there will be sandwiches—pork shoulder and roasted pepper with sheep’s milk cheese among them—a pissaladiere, and sweet crepes. Sister restaurant Cafe Presse on the hill will operate as usual on Bastille Day—if you want the party, go downtown.

Luc in Madison Park has drink specials on Thursday: Lillet, pastis, and rose are $5 and wines from Vacqueyras in the southern Rhone are $6. Food specials include a honey-roasted duck breast, a salad Nicoise, and a strawberry shortcake.

Michael Mina’s Downtown sensation RN74 is currently running a Twitter promotion to get people amped on its Bastille Day celebration. If you tweet the following: “#BastilleDay party @rn74seattle on July 14 with awesome food and drink specials” you are eligible to win a free wine dinner. If you just want to go to the party, well, I hear there are going to be “awesome food and drink specials.”

Finally, ViaVita Café and Wine Bar in Bellevue is celebrating with a five-course meal—pate de lapin, coq au vin, etc. That’s $55, a $20 wine pairing is also available. Call 425-449-8917 to reserve.

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Tags: Bellevue, Downtown, Wine, Pike Place Market, Street Food, Food Events and Festivals, Ballard, Bastille Day, Downtown Seattle Restaurants

Happy Hour

Happy Hour of the Week: Seatown Seabar

A TDR bar that’s exactly right for a sunny spring evening.

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Seatown

Oysters at Seatown

Photo: Facebook

HOURS: 3-6pm daily
PRICES: Tap beers $4, tap wines $6. Small plates $1-$12

On a bright spring evening, Seatown Seabar feels like precisely the best place to be in Seattle.

From the vantage point of the bar you can take it all in: servers shucking big, bumpy oysters and toasting half-lemons with creme-brule torches, bartenders straining tawny concoctions into cocktail glasses, and their customers beyond them, chatty and buzzy and pleased with themselves for scoring a spot at this Sound-view boasting, bustling creation just north of Pike Place Market.

The first time I encountered this fetching scene, I was surprised. Last time I had been to the Tom Douglas restaurant, it had been a gray, wet winter afternoon, and Seabar felt grim. Its back of the house, on that occasion, seemed rather too exposed, like when you visit a sick friend and get a look at her indoors-only sweatpants. The design—big open bar claiming most of the floor space, tables framing it on three sides, two walls of windows—makes it feels more like a sun porch than an enclosed room. Whatever mood is created by the climatological conditions outside becomes magnified inside, setting the tone for the meal.

But back to happy hour: The menu focuses on smoked and cured fish ($6-$8, or $12 for a sampler). There’s trout, sturgeon, ling cod, and king salmon—if you’re sharing that salmon, prepare to fight over it. All of these come with slices of baguette, so no need to order bread separately. Also on each plate: plugra, a French-style butter sprinkled with black lava salt, and a tomato-parsley salad. The idea is to combine these things to create wee fishy sandwiches.

There’s also a cheese plate with Tin Willow Tomme from Black Sheep Creamery, and rotating oysters for $1 a pop. The suggested pairing for the oysters is a 2009 Michel Delhommeau muscadet, an uncomplicated wine with the right acidity for the occasion. But to my mind the perfect Seatown Seabar drink is Syncline’s unassailable rose, which the restaurant keeps on tap. A little spicy with a lovely dry finish, it’s a great food wine whose pretty pinkness only enhances the happy factor of a sunny evening at Seatown Seabar.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Pike Place Market, Keg Wine, Seattle Happy Hours

Bars to Make Your Girlfriend Fall in Love with Seattle

Where do you go to show off your city?

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Drinks at Bathtub Gin

I recently got an email message from a Seattle reader whose girlfriend was coming into town for a visit. From me he wanted bar suggestions. Specifically, he wanted me to suggest bars that would convince his girlfriend that this city was the best city in the world and thus she should move here. Or so I extrapolated.

My suggestions: The Walrus and the Carpenter, first off. The Walrus is like someone’s dream of Seattle—much more sparkly and bright than the real thing, but also recalling all the many things that you love about it.

I also suggested Quoin, the bar at Revel in Fremont, since there’s something about Revel—I need to think more about what it is, specifically—that makes it feel both representative of what’s great about Seattle restaurants but also totally unique in the universe.

And then we get to the fun places, the bars where people—even icy Seattle people—actually talk to each other and make friends. Bathtub Gin is one such bar (I wish the drinks were more consistent but it’s hard to complain when you’re having so much fun). Vermillion is another one. If you haven’t experienced Vermillion’s insane version of karaoke night, you should do so at your earliest availability.

But if you really want to make a drinker fall in love with Seattle, you take her to Pike Place Market, right? You take her to a burlesque show at CanCan, for David Nelson–crafted cocktails at Il Bistro. And, of course, you take your girlfriend to Zig Zag.

So those were my ideas. What did I miss?

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Tags: Cocktails, Pike Place Market, Seattle Bars, Speakeasy-Style Bars

Old Bawdy Is Back

Pike Brewing’s 2010 barley wine will be on sale December 1.

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Barley

Barley wine, a very boozy ale.

On December 1, Pike Brewing will release its 2010 Old Bawdy Barley Wine.

Barley wine is actually a very strong ale. It’s called “wine” because it is as alcoholic as wine, with strengths of 8 to 15 percent abv. Every winter the Pike Place Market brewery does a vertical tasting of its barley wine—you pay $20 ($25 at the door), and then have the chance to compare Old Bawdy vintages from 2006 to present.

This year’s tasting takes place on January 30 from 1 to 6pm in the pub’s museum room. Tickets go on sale December 1.

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Tags: Tastings and Classes, Pike Place Market, Barley Wine

Here’s What’s Up with Happy Hour at Seatown

A snack deal and a $20 takeaway dinner at Tom Douglas’s new Pike Place Market spot.

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Seatown Snack Bar
Photo: Tomdouglas.com

I just wanted to let you know about the happy hour at Tom Douglas’s newest place, Seatown Snack Sea Bar and Rotisserie. This is important information on a day like today—if the weather holds, you’ll want to be commandeering one of the Snack Bar’s outdoor tables.

From 3 to 6pm, Monday through Friday, Seatown Snack Bar—which specializes in seafood and rotisserie meats—has a “snack happy hour.” There are two “snackwiches,” you pay $1 for every inch of ’wich. One is a salami cold-cut sandwich, the other is roasted turkey with smashed avocado and peppers.

Three kinds of wings—two per order—are $3. They come in jerk, BBQ, and Tokyo flavors. Seattle Maritime Lager is $3 a pint. A Spire cider will run you $4, and there are red (sangiovese) and white (roussanne) wines by the glass; they are $5.

If this glorious sunshine turns to rain, you can opt instead for the takeout happy hour deal at Seatown Snack Bar To Go. From 5 to 7pm on weekdays an entire rotisserie chicken, plus two large sides, is $20.

It’s Tom Douglas’s world, you know. We’re just living in it.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Pike Place Market, Tom Douglas

David Nelson Surfaces!

And brings exciting news of a new bar manager gig downtown.

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Ilbistro

Il Bistro: About to have awesome cocktails again.

Since leaving Tavern Law, David Nelson has been seen shaking and stirring at Still Liquor on Capitol Hill, but he won’t be there long.

Nelson told me today that he has accepted the bar manager position at Il Bistro, former Pike Place haunt of the great Murray Stenson.

This is such good news, Seattle boozers. Il Bistro has the most amazing bar space—arched doorways, warm, cozy light…it’s old timey romance on steroids. Or something. And with Nelson there to whip the cocktail program into shape, it’s poised to be our town next great cocktail lounge. Again. Nelson will be closing out his time at Still over the next week and a half; Look for him behind the Il Bistro bar Tuesday through Friday, beginning September 21.

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Tags: Cocktails, Seattle Bartenders, Pike Place Market

New Bar News

New Bar Roundup

A cocktail lounge, a wine bar, a pinball pub that self-identifies as a dive, and another cocktail lounge.

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Wizard

We begin downtown with The Diller Room, the cocktail lounge inside Stella coffee house at the corner of First and University.

The Diller Room’s happy hour scores big points for lasting from 5 to 8pm and featuring $5 snacks (including two kinds of slider—monte cristo and BLT), and $3 wells and drafts. Billing yourself as a cocktail lounge and then brandishing a Bacardi logo on your web site is dubious practice, this fact does not escape me. But the Diller Room is actually quite cool and I’m happy enough with the happy hour that I can let it go.

Moving up towards the market there is ths new-ish wine bar 106 Pine, owned by the people who brought us the neighboring Chocolate Box and managed by the very knowledgeable Shannon Borg. 106 Pine has tasting events every Thursday. Next up on April 8 from 5-7pm, a rep from Woodinville’s Cru Selections will be pouring wines from Hestia, Guardian, and Cullin Hills.

Meanwhile, Wallingford’s 45th Street has welcomed a very techie-friendly new pinball bar called The Grizzled Wizard. Happy hour here starts at 4pm and also lasts until 8pm every day—I’m seeing a trend and I’m liking what I see. Right now the GW is doing ye olde frozen-dinner-as-food-menu trick, but promises bbq and tacos in the future.

Finally, Pour House, in the area of Greenlake some people call Tangletown, opened in Mid-March and has two sections—a cocktail lounge for adults only, and an all-ages dining room for families. Pour House has a $5 food menu offered from 4 to 6pm and again from 10 to close. This menu features no less than three types of slider: hamburger, portabello mushroom, and Jamaican jerk chicken.

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Tags: Downtown, Cocktails, Pike Place Market, Wallingford, Wine Bars, Dives, Greenlake

Oeno Files

A Stupid Question for a Sommelier

New Oak, old oak, no oak: Campagne’s Cyril Frechier demystifies chardonnay.

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Cyril

Cyril says: do not give up on chardonnays before you’ve tried a good one.

From 1990 to 2007, Cyril Frechier, now wine and spirits director at Campagne and Cafe Campagne, was the wine director and GM of Rover’s restaurant in Madison Valley. Born and raised in France, he honed his skills attending wine master classes in London. “The exhilaration and inspiration received from these lectures,” says Cyril, have never left him.

Here, a stupid question for Cyril Frechier.

You hear a lot about chardonnays being oaky or not oaky. What does that mean exactly?
Since Roman times, sturdiness, watertight structure, and flavor-enhancing compounds have made oak the favorite wood type for shipping and storing wine the world over. The more relevant and obvious benefit to the consumer are oak’s organoleptic (I love that word) properties.

I’m glad you love that word, Cyril, but I should probably cut in and explain that “organoleptic” refers to the wine’s sensory properties—taste, color, odor, etc. Alright, carry on.
Oaky flavors are commonly described as vanilla, coconut, burnt toast, caramel, tobacco, spicy, cedar, and clove. Some white-grape varietals are natural partners for these flavors; chardonnay chief among them. Reds that can handle oak’s sometimes overbearing flavors include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah/shiraz, tempranillo and, to a lesser extent, pinot noir.

How “oaky” a wine is depends on the provenance, brand, size, manufacturing requirements, and percentage of new barrels that are used. Old barrels can be neutral, while new barrels will impart 100-percent oakiness.

Okay, back to chardonnay. If I don’t like oaky chardonnays, does that mean I won’t like any chard?
As in most things in life, balance and harmony is key. Excessive oak flavors will obliterate chardonnay’s more delicate floral, herbal, and citrusy characteristics. But oak, when well handled, can add layers of flavors and complexity that unoaked chardonnays rarely display.

But how can I tell, looking at the label, if a chard is oaky?
Look on the bottle’s front and back label. Any mention of oak, vanilla, toasted flavors, etc is a dead giveaway. Words like Reserve, Special Cuvée, and Estate can point to a fancier, more expensive bottling in which new oak barrels may have been used.

Alright, homework time. Can you suggest two chards—one unoaked, one oaked—to compare side by side?
Here are two from the Willamette Valley in Oregon: Chehalem 2007 Inox Chardonnay takes its name from the abbreviation of the French word for stainless steel. This wine is 100 percent stainless-steel fermented. It’s light, crisp, fresh, and delicious. Ponzi Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay Reserve: A good example of how oak can enhance chardonnay fruit when in the hands of a deft winemaker.

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Tags: Wine, A Stupid Question for a Sommelier, Pike Place Market

Holiday Drinking Events

Happy St Patty’s. The party begins in 19 minutes.

Green-beer wingdings will take place in Irish pubs all over town today, but the one to hit is Kell’s.

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Irishband

A very Irish band of the sort you can see all day at Kell’s.

It being St Patrick’s Day, you can pretty much stumble into any Irish bar around town and expect a party. But the one to hit is Kell’s, which opens at 10am (20 minutes from now).

There is a $20 cover—admission buys you a free t-shirt and the chance to hear no fewer than eight Irish bands. The party spills into an outdoor tent and nearby Post, which shares owners with Kell’s. Please don’t forget to eat—the food at Kell’s is relatively tasty, and will help absorb all the beer.

In other news, I just called Tom Douglas Restaurants and was informed that there are still about 10 tickets left for the beer blast tonight at Palace Ballroom. So if you want to get on that, call this number right now: 206-448-2001.

Finally, was anyone curious where the great Shane MacGowan himself might be playing tonight, as bands the world over cover his songs? I was, but there is no show date posted on his Myspace page. I’ll bet you two green beers he is doing a gig at Bill Gates’s private St Patty’s party on Mercer Island. Or perhaps in Mexico, playing for Carlos Slim, that Mexican telecom tycoon who is now richer than Bill Gates.

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Tags: Holiday Events, Pike Place Market, St Patrick's Day

Drinking Events/Mark Your Calendars

For Your Consideration: Oscar Viewing Parties at Kell’s, Bottleneck

The Academy Awards air March 7. Where will you watch?

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The Oscars aren’t just a shameless excuse to put a picture of George Clooney on your blog. They’re also a shameless excuse to drink at the bar.

Wondering where you’ll watch the Oscars this year? In the bars category, consider Kell’s in Pike Place Market and the Bottleneck Lounge on East Madison Street.

Kell’s, which organizes the event as a benefit to St. Joseph’s Baby Corner, asks guests to “dress to impress” and will be raffling off prizes. Doors open at 4pm, the awards show begins at 5pm. Tickets are $25 in advance, $35 at the door and include appetizers, ballots, and prizes.

The Bottleneck Lounge will also be opening up at 4pm and will serve drink specials themed around the best actor nominees. It’s free and you can wear jeans or whatever.

Oh and if Oscar is not your buzz, opt instead to attend this absinthe soiree at the Sorrento Hotel with local cocktail historian extraordinaire, Robert Hess. To paraphrase something I heard a bartender say recently at that very hotel: “The green fairy is much more interesting than the red carpet.” Price of admission is $20.

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Tags: Oscars, Pike Place Market, Drinking Events

Happy Hour

Happy Hour of the Week: Post Restaurant and Lounge

At this bunker of a Post Alley bar, order mini-burgers but not lamb sliders.

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HOURS: Daily from 4 to 7pm
PRICES: Food specials between $4 and $6; wines by the glass from $5 to $7 and by the bottle from $15-$28; $4 draft beers; $4 well cocktails.

I’ve always liked how Post Restaurant and Lounge reminded me of the Hatch on Lost. If you don’t know what I mean by that, go get your hands on the first two seasons of that show and I’ll see you in a few weeks.

A tiny bunker of a Post Alley bar that is flanked by Kell’s on one side and the shopping center that houses the White Horse Trading Co on the other, Post opened about a year ago. Then, a few months back, Patrick McAleese (whose family owns Kell’s) and his business partner took over. A tall Irishman with a flair for interior design, McAleese has added soft-edged bric-a-brac to contrast with the cementy lockdown feel, but all the table votives, silky harem pillows, and grape bunch-shaped chandeliers can’t stop this place from feeling like a spooky underground lair.

And why would you want them to? It’s awesome to drink in a cave under Pike Place Market. Especially on a weekday evening in winter when it is dark as evil outside. I go to happy hour at Post all the time. I think of it as my panic room.

You should come. I can tell you what to eat: the juicy mini-burgers, but not the dry lamb sliders, and maybe some artichoke jalapeno dip served with little toasties—one must eat the occasional vegetable, after all. I can share a bottle of Portuguese white wine ($15) with you, the kind of wine that goes down easy and you can drink a lot of and still feel fine. The kind of wine you can drink while having the sort of deep, meandering conversation you wish would never end.

There are seven wines on the happy hour menu, six of them available by the bottle. Remember this is not your last meal, this is your Tuesday night refuge. You will be charged accordingly.

Just after it opened last year, I went to Post and there was a wake at the next table. If you want to read about that, it’s here.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Pike Place Market

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