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Year in Review

2011: The Year in Drinking

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Canon: Kind of a big deal.

Oh 2011. Drinking-wise you were a year of highs and lows, and I’m not just talking about general intoxication and subsequent hangovers. Here are five of the year’s major moments in the realm of beer, wine, and spirits. Some are seminal events in our drinking lives, others merely a sea change that will alter the way we imbibe in 2012 and beyond.

1. Initiative 1183 Passes
It’s still not entirely clear exactly how privatizing liquor will affect our state’s distillers, brewers, bar owners, distributors, and, of course, drinkers. The Liquor Control Board’s wind-down has already caused some hardships for bartenders; cutting off special liquor orders is but one example of how the legislative process will impact your drinking in 2012. However with the June 1 deadline looming (and March 1, when distillers and distributors can start selling directly to restaurants), we’re likely to see some concrete answers in the coming months.

2. Washington Wine Drama
Remember the blogger drama that ensued when a rep from the Washington Wine Commission called out Matt Dillon for not serving regional wines at his otherwise locally oriented restaurants? Truthfully, though, it’s been a solid year for Washington’s wine. The State Department is pouring Yakima’s Treveri Cellars sparklers at its holiday events, local somm Shayn Bjornholm is now heading up the education program for the Court of Master Sommeliers, and just a few weeks ago, Yakima Valley’s Naches Heights was designated as the state’s 12th and newest American Viticultural Area.

3. Murray-Gate
First Seattle’s most storied barman was at Zig Zag Cafe. For a long time. THEN… he was going to RN74! But wait. Maybe he wasn’t. Then, he definitely wasn’t. After popping up briefly at the Pan Pacific Hotel, Murray Stenson seems to have settled in over at Jamie Boudreau’s Canon. And as for the frenzy surrounding his whereabouts? Consider it either proof that we take our drinks, and their makers, seriously…or proof that Jess Voelker and I lack for outside-of-work hobbies.

4. Seattle Embraces Beer in a Can
Washington Beer Blog’s Kendall Jones has a nice post recapping the brew-based highlights of 2011. And while events and growler car carriers are indeed awesome, our craft breweries’ embracing of cans will probably do more to change the way the average beer drinker kicks back after a long day. Seven Seas Brewing in Gig Harbor lays claim to being the first Washington brewery to can, back in 2010. Two Beers went the can route this summer, and newcomer brewery Hilliard’s only offers its beer in cans and kegs. Opened-this-very-minute beer bar the Publican has jettisoned its bottle list entirely in favor of cans.

5. Canon Opens
Local barman Jamie Boudreau had long planned to open his own place, and when Canon arrived, the reality somehow exceeded the ridiculously high expectations. Seattle has a score of cool cocktail bars; why is this one such a damn big deal? Maybe because it encapsulates everything that’s good about our local drink scene (a crazy array of spirits, bartender-patron drink collaborations, Murray Stenson) and very little of the bad (OK, it can be damn hard to get a seat sometimes).

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Tags: Wine, Beer, Murray Stenson, Canon Seattle, Retrospectives, 2011 in Drinking

Booze News

Murray Stenson Joins Canon Crew

The legendary barman surfaces.

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Murray Stenson: find him behind the bar at Canon.

Even on her way out she delivers the big stuff.

On Sunday evening Jess Voelker—whose last day at Seattle Met was last week —was the first to tweet huge news: that Murray Stenson has joined the crew at Canon, the new cocktail emporium of Jamie Boudreau.

In May the legendary barman departed from his longtime post at Zig Zag. His plan was to take a gig at Michael Mina’s RN74. That never panned out, however, and Stenson has laid low since.

According to Eater and Seattle Weekly, Stenson will tend three nights a week; which ones are yet to be determined.

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Tags: Jamie Boudreau, Murray Stenson, Canon Seattle

Imbibing Agenda

Upcoming Drinking Events: More Bastille Day, Murray Stenson Back Behind the Bar

Plus: Kirkland Uncorked, beers in Phinney Ridge, and a very cool herbal infusion class.

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Roadhouse and chicken wings come together tonight at King’s Hardware.

Happy Monday, Seattle drinkers. We’re in the ides of July and you know what that means—lots of drinking events for celebrating summertime.

Here’s what is on tap and tasty this week.

Monday, July 11 it’s movie night at King’s Hardware in Ballard. Drink specials, free popcorn, and 28 cent wings are among the attractions. Tonight’s movie is Roadhouse, the magic begins around 9pm.

Attention aspiring craft cocktailers and soda jerks: On Wednesday the 13th, Herban Wellness is offering a very cool class in herbal syrups, honeys, and infusions. The lesson includes how-tos on making your own ginger ale and root beer bases along with syrups and infusions to mix into mixed drinks. That’s $20, register on the website.

Thursday, July 14 is of course Bastille Day. Last week I rounded up promising parties but, as Allecia Vermillion over at Eater Seattle points out, I forgot the ever-important Corson Building fete. There will be live music and games and, most importantly, food—food not only from the Corson Building but also Nettletown and Walrus and the Carpenter.

Also wanted to follow up on that petanque (bocce ball) tournament at Bastille. The tourney is sponsored by Rhum JM and Rhum Clement and will happen on a swatch of lawn across the street from the restaurant. Registration is $10 per team and includes a t-shirt. Sign up starting at noon; games begin at 1pm.

Friday, July 15 through Sunday the 17th is Kirkland Uncorked: an outdoor wine tasting event along the lake’s edge in Kirkland. Very pretty. The website has the details.

The Phinney Neighborhood Association’s Summer Beer Taste (or Beervana) happens on Saturday, July 16. Non-member admission is $30 and for that you get 10 local beer samples plus snacks. The PNA website has details and a list of participating breweries.

Looking forward to next week:

On Monday, July 18 the Bookstore Bar is hosting a Canadian whiskey tasting. It’s $30 and includes snacks plus a chance to try Rich and Rare Reserve, Royal Canadian Small Batch, Forty Creek, and Caribou Crossing. Reserve by emailing bookstorebarevents@alexishotel.com, or calling the bar.

Also, don’t forget that Monday, July 18 is the benefit auction for Kristal Lana at Bluwater Bistro. One night only: bartender of bartenders Murray Stenson will take a hiatus from his hiatus to support his friend. Don’t worry about Stenson’s hurt shoulder—the occasional stint behind the stick isn’t a problem, he told me. “Besides,” said Murray, “[Toulouse Petit bar manager] Joe Jeannot will be there to do all the hard work. I’m just the pretty face.”

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Tags: Kirkland, Wine, Beer, Drinking Events, Ballard, Murray Stenson, Outdoor Drinking, Bastille Day

Imbibing Agenda

Upcoming Drinking Events: Murray at Oliver’s, Syncline tasting, Two Beers in a Can

Lots of boozy options over the next seven days.

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Taste Bulleit Rye this Monday at the Bookstore Bar.

Photo Courtesy: Bulleit

This Friday, June 17 through Sunday, June 19 is when the Washington Brewers Festival at Saint Edward State Park in Kenmore happens. More than 200 types of beer will be poured and there will be plenty of cider this year too. Take your dad! That guy loves beer.

On Monday, June 20, the Bookstore Bar hosts a tasting of Bulleit bourbon and rye whiskies, the latter debuted in March. Master of Whiskey Breck Taylor hosts, it is from 7 to 9pm and costs $30. That includes a whiskey flight and food pairings.

Wednesday, June 22 is the night that Barrio Bellevue is hosting the third in a series of events called Brazilian Nights, sponsored by Novofogo Cachaca. This time it’s a four-course dinner for $50, call Barrio to reserve: 206-838-3853.

Over the years, Oliver’s Lounge has employed many a Seattle bartender, including legends Murray Stenson and Steve Burney. They, along with several colleagues (Mike Rule, Steve Vlah, and Patrick Donnelly), will be mixing drinks at the hotel bar’s 35th anniversary party next Thursday, June 23 from 4 to 8pm. (I confirmed with the bar that yes, Murray is still slated to tend bar that night despite the shoulder injury). Oh and hey, free food! Oliver’s is serving complimentary happy hour apps for the occasion. To RSVP, call 206-382-6991.

Also on Thursday, the winery responsible for my very favorite by-the-glass rose, Syncline Cellars, is representing at Poco Wine Room. It’s from 6 to 9pm. A $10 tasting fee buys you a taste of five wines; assistant winemaker Poppie Montane will be pouring. If you can’t make the party but want to test the veracity of my statement about the rose, it’s on offer at these two happy hours: Lecosho’s and Seatown Seabar’s.

Finally on Thursday, Two Beers has just begun offering beer by the can, and it will give visitors a chance to try how that tastes from 5 to 8pm.

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Tags: Tastings and Classes, Seattle Bartenders, Parties, Murray Stenson

Final* (I Hope) Update on Murray Stenson’s Employment Status

Here’s the reason he’s not tending bar at RN74…at least for now.

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The bar at RN74 Seattle

All right, this whole story has definitely veered into leave-the-guy-alone territory, and after this post I hope to do just that.

However, I know Murray Stenson is a beloved person and I know that people have been worried about him following the news that he was going to take some time off from bartending, and no longer planned to be behind the bar at RN74 next week when the restaurant opens.

The break turns out to be due to a shoulder injury, Stenson told me in an email this morning. He will need several months off to recuperate. “It’ll give me time to catch up with the Golden Girls reruns,” he wrote.

Not much drama there, folks.

In sorta related news, Tan Vinh reported on Twitter this week that Zig Zag has hired Ricardo Hoffman from Sun Liquor. Going to follow up on that news right now.

*By final I mean final for now, of course.

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Tags: Seattle Restaurant Openings, Seattle Bartenders, Bar Openings, Murray Stenson

Seattle Bar News

Zig Zag’s Kacy Fitch on Life After Murray

Attention bartender’s assistants: an opportunity awaits.

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Erik Hakkinen moves to center stage.

Following the news that Murray Stenson was leaving Zig Zag for RN74 Seattle, Hanna Raskin of Seattle Weekly called up Zig Zag owner Kacy Fitch today to ask about life after Murray.

Raskin learned that plans include hiring a bartender’s assistant to help out Erik Hakkinen and Ben Perri behind the bar.

Hakkinen has been considered something of a Murray protege around town, though Stenson says he never saw it that way.

"I learn as much from Erik as he learns from me,” he told Seattle Met’s James Ross Gardner back in 2009. “Erik’s very deceptive. He’s half my age. And he’s way knowledgeable.”

Of predictions that Stenson’s final shifts at Zig Zag would draw massive crowds, Fitch told Raskin: “We’re always busy on Thursday and Friday. There’s not much more volume we can do.”

Phew, five Zig Zag posts in one day. Who needs a cocktail?

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Tags: Seattle Bartenders, Murray Stenson, Zig Zag Cafe, RN74

Seattle Bar News

A Quick Chat with Murray Stenson about the RN74 Move

“Zig Zag is a young man’s bar,” says Stenson.

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Murray Stenson at Zig Zag

Why is Murray Stenson moving to RN74 Seattle from Zig Zag Café?

I just had a quick phone chat with him and asked.

“I’d been at Zig Zag for 10 years,” he said. “I’m looking to simplify. I’m really old, and Zig Zag is a young man’s bar.”

The amazing amount of attention the bar has received in the national press has led to bigger and bigger crowds. A good problem to have for a bar, but something Stenson’s ready to do without.

“It’s a monster,” he said. “The move will be good for my blood pressure. And I can spend more time with my family.”

So will he be working less?

“Not necessarily. I’m penciled in for four 10 hour shifts and talking to some other bars about picking up two extra shifts.”

And won’t the crowds that flock to Zig Zag to see him just overwhelm the bar at RN74 as well?

“I don’t think it’s possible. The bar is much smaller over there, and the accent [at RN74] is more on food than drink.”

RN74 opens June 13 at 1433 Fourth Avenue. Rajat Parr is the wine director. Michelle Retallack is executive chef.

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Tags: Seattle Bartenders, Murray Stenson, Zig Zag Cafe, RN74

Tales from Tales IV

Chapter 4: In which Murray wins!

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Murray with fellow Zig Zagger Erik Hakkinen.

Tales of the Cocktail has come to a close, and I am en route to Seattle, ready to cast my gaze once more upon our verdant metropolis.

Meantime though, great news: on Saturday night, Tales named Seattle’s own Murray Stenson (of Zig Zag Cafe) the bartender of the year. Stenson was not in New Orleans to receive the award, so Paul Clarke accepted it in his stead.

Stenson was also up for the Lifetime Achievement award; that one went to Brian Rea.

Big congrats to Murray and to everyone over at Zig Zag. And big congrats to you, Seattle, for getting to order drinks from the bartender of the year any old day, and for being smart enough to know how lucky you are to do so.

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Tags: Seattle Bartenders, Tales of the Cocktail, Murray Stenson, Zig Zag Cafe, Tales from Tales

Tales from Tales I: Dispatches from the Center of the Mixed Drinks Universe

Chapter 1: In which we start the trip with a $9 boozy slurpee and don’t regret it for one minute.

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Yes I like pina coladas, but a test tube shot? Only if the planet depends on it.

Good morning from New Orleans. I’m here all week reporting from Tales of the Cocktail, where, we hope, our own Murray Stenson will be honored with a top award.

I’ll be telling you about all the cocktail-related happenings as they occur, but my “work” doesn’t get underway for a few hours.

In fact, the only drink I’ve had so far in NO was a pina colada from one of those French Quarter tourist traps with a line of swirly machines behind the bar. Yes, I looked like a big honking tourist carrying that thing around the FQ, but I sucked shamelessly from the straw because it’s hotter than Johnny Depp circa Donnie Brasco down here and it was 10pm and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. My whacked out blood sugar levels had gone all action movie, pushing my sensible brain into the metaphorical passenger’s seat with a breathy “I’m in control now, Jacko,” gripping the (metaphorical) wheel resolutely as it slammed down on the (metaphorical) gas pedal and jerked the (metaphorical) car in the direction of the nearest (actual) swirly-machine bar.

Being the restrained individual that I am, even in my funny-blood-sugar-no-brain state I opted for a small beverage—approximately 26 ounces—instead of the two-foot bong you get when you order a large. I also declined a free shot of anti-freeze that came along with my drink, value meal-style, in accordance with my steadfast rule about never drinking anything out of a test tube.*

Anyway, check back here all week for updates on Tales of the Cocktail and your regularly scheduled Sauced programming.

*Exception to the test tube rule: It’s the future, and things are pretty bleak. The planet is lorded over by a species of supersized beetles (the insects, I mean, not the world’s most influential pop music band) who despite their larger size have retained the ability to proliferate at seemingly exponential rates. They have enslaved the surviving humans to create elaborate nests for their seething piles of offspring, murdering anyone who does not stud the debris beds with the appropriate amount of crumbs, tissues, and wadded-up newspaper. In a hidden lair that could, at any moment, be discovered by our many-legged overlords, a brilliant scientist has developed a formula that amounts to mankind’s only hope—imbibed, it gives the imbibee the ability to shoot Raid insect killer from the pores of her palms with the oomph and volume of a top-grade power-washing hose. It has been determined that I am the only surviving human whose palms are adequately porous. In other words, the fate of the planet depends on me. In this case, if the scientist poured the formula into a test tube and asked me to drink it, I would. Otherwise it’s not going to happen.

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Tags: Cocktails, Tales of the Cocktail, Murray Stenson, New Orleans, Tales from Tales

Zig Zag’s Murray Stenson Up for Bartender of the Year at Boozy Oscars

He’s also nominated for Lifetime Achievement.

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Murray Stenson

About a month from now, Tales of the Cocktail, an enormous and notoriously boozy cocktail convention, will begin in New Orleans. Like every good convention, Tales has an awards series, the Spirit Awards. Do I need to say that they are the Oscars of the cocktail world? Okay then, I will. They are the Oscars of the cocktail world.

And Murray Stenson of Zig Zag has been nominated for both Bartender of the Year and the Lifetime Achievement Award.

His competition for the first: Eric Alperin from youngin’ bar The Varnish in LA, and two New Yorkers: Kenta Goto of The Pegu Club and Sam Ross, Milk & Honey.

For Lifetime Achievement, he’s up against Brian Rea, Gary Regan, and Tony Abou-Ganim. The funny thing is that of these four guys, Murray is the only one who is just a working bartender. He may be a great freaking bartender, but that’s what he is. Not an expert speaker or the author who pops up on Amazon.com when you plug in “cocktail.” You won’t find his face on a line of bitters. I can’t think of a better lifetime achievement candidate than one who shows up to work everyday and just does his job awesomely, can you?

I’ll be reporting from Tales this year, and will let you know (probably via Twitter) as soon as the award is announced on July 24. Meantime, head down to Zig Zag and offer Mur the Blur your mazel tovs.

Side note: Not for the first time, Zig Zag made Esquire’s best bars list this year. “It’s one of the torches that sparked the cocktail revolution, and it doesn’t act like it,” wrote Esquire. You could say the same of Murray.

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Tags: Seattle Bartenders, Tales of the Cocktail, Murray Stenson

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